Originally Posted by cudamax

I haven't done one but I think the 383 combo with the stroker crank needs some special piston pin offset to put the piston lower in the deck and is limited to a certain amount of lift and the oil ring comes real close to the piston pin
Dont have these problems if u want to lay out close to 3 grand on a aftermarket raised block also if u dont want to overbore ur cyl's sure it can be done if u can find pistons in a std bore to use with a stroker crank but it will cost ya power and about up to a full 1/2 sec in the quarter mile or u can min the power loss and go with custom full forged slugs with full floating pins and go with the higher piston to wall clearance that goes with those and the softer chrome moly rings instead of hard chrome that requires a perfect bore and makes the best power. The softer chrome moly will conform to piston cly bore Irregularities and wear into the odd worn out cly bore but don't last long
The 383 kits r cheep I think under 500 bucks now if they can be had in STD bore sizes u could skip out on the right bore prep and just clearance the pan rail area for the longer stroke but it would be half ***

Originally Posted by cudamax

Read up a little Page 2 Explains what I was trying to say
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...l_block_chevy/

Originally Posted by MrWillys

Has everyone forgotten pi R squared? Yes the GM crate is 382.019 vs a .030 with a 3.75 crank at 382.668.

What the OP is really missing is availability of parts. My guess is very few piston sets for a 383 come in std bore. Therefore, the added cost would pay for the .030 overbore of his block. Swapping in a 383 would not take away any value IMHO unless the car is a low mileage original numbers matching a collector is looking for.

Personally, i would keep it a 350 and spend money on headwork, roller rockers and a cam, but what do I know.

Remember guys,

Radius x radius x 3.1416 x stroke x amount of cylinders is not that hard.

Originally Posted by C4ProjectCar

Thanks, that was exactly the information I was looking for! I didn't want to overbore because I thought it would hurt value, but what you say makes sense.
I plan to install roller rockers. I don't plan to race this car though; it's just "for fun". Wouldn't a new cam and headwork be more for high-RPM applications like racing?

Originally Posted by MrWillys

Not really, and more air is more power. Components that compliment each other is what you want. The success of the L98 is the lowend to midrange power. Put a Comp 08-501-8 with 1.5 rockers and it will wake it up, but is not so big to take away street manners for the girls in the house. If you don't mind spending the extra money on the crank kit go for it. Get an internally balanced aftermarket crank, so you don't need the externally balanced harmonic balancer, and flexplate.

Originally Posted by C4ProjectCar

Thanks for the advice.
Just a few questions:
Will it lose any low-range torque with the 501-8? Not noticeable
I heard 1.6RR are best, is there a reason you'd say 1.5 is better?
1.6 rocker increase lift, and duration slighty. This cam with 1.5's will not require reprogramming.
A crank kit is what, just a crankshaft and a few other small components? Is it what is referred to as a stroker kit?
Crank, rods, pistons, rings, and bearings.
If I did the crank kit, does that involve any machining of my existing components?
I'm not 100% sure, but I think it requires some machining of the block for clearance, but that was with the 400 crank. This may have been resolved by now in new designs. Maybe someone else can comment.

Originally Posted by STL94LT1

Tha's whatt GM uses in their 383 crate engines with a 4" bore.

http://paceperformance.com/i-6255301...-assembly.html

Originally Posted by C4ProjectCar

So you're saying it's possible without overboring? How is the GM 383 crate different from a 350 other than the crank?

Originally Posted by C4ProjectCar

If I did the crank kit, does that involve any machining of my existing components?

Originally Posted by Tom400CFI

Crank design can't fix the problem of clearance between the pan rails and the rod. RODS can fix that problem. The "clearancing" is simply grinding the insides of the block at the pan rails, so the rod (with it's longer stroke) doesn't hit the block. You could do it with a home grinder.

Here is a vid showing it done w/a machine, but it shows where and how much grinding is necessary...not much.

Stroker Clearancing a SB Chevy 350 Block for a 383 Stroker Crank - YouTube



....and with certain cap screw type rods, it may not be necessary.

Originally Posted by C4ProjectCar

How much more torque should be expected from a 377 or a 383 stroked L98? Would you say it's worth it, or are other upgrades more efficient?

Originally Posted by Tom400CFI

First, everything else being equal, with a stock or stockish top end, I'd expect maybe 30 more tq. So you'de be at something like 370 tq, IMO.

Second, is it worth it? Personal opinion, 100%. Depends on your goals, future plans, budget, etc. If you like a "tq monster" that gives you whiplash w/the gas pedal, then it's probably "worth it". If you're goal is the best 1/4 mile times for the $$, then it's probably not worth it.

Originally Posted by Lloyd Smale

check out this guys prices. Feedback on his products is great too. This is an lt1 but he does them for the older engines too. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=301254811546

Originally Posted by cudamax

Sure Stroke kits come cheep. Man were are talking sbc here. and a stroke kit will be ur most bank for the buck IMO