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Sure does and a cam and timing chain with liters and oil pump and a complete gasket kit with a tube of sealer and the weakest part of a small block chevy I'd get some APR Rod bolts
A machine shop will set ya Straight but just punch in on google sbc stroker kit & sbc gasket kit & sbc cam kit or a stroker 383 and everything else
Sure does and a cam and timing chain with liters and oil pump and a complete gasket kit with a tube of sealer and the weakest part of a small block chevy I'd get some APR Rod bolts
A machine shop will set ya Straight but just punch in on google sbc stroker kit & sbc gasket kit & sbc cam kit or a stroker 383 and everything else
Thanks.
So you're saying I need all of the following to stroke my motor to 383?
As far as I am understanding this thread, the OP wants to change a 350 into a 383 which requires boring the cylinder walls .030. Just boring the engine will change that into a 355 cu. inch so to get the 383 you need to lengthen the stroke. Parts required are pistons, rods, bearings, different crank if needed and that's just the bare minimum for the bottom end. This does not cover doing any head work or camshaft. Pistons will have to be determined after he has done the boring whether he wants flat tops or domed depending on desired compression ratio. He can deck the block .030 and run flat top pistons and maintain a 9.5-1 compression ratio thereby allowing him to use low grade fuel. $1000 will not cover the cost of the work needed to be done as there is a lot of labor involved. If he has a grand to cover the cost and wants more street light take off power, change out the rear end gear ratio and that may be done for approx. $1K. Machine work is not something everyone can do and it takes a good machinist to do what he wants and I don't see a good one doing all that work for what he wants to pay. Of course this is just MHO.
Tommy
As far as I am understanding this thread, the OP wants to change a 350 into a 383 which requires boring the cylinder walls .030. Just boring the engine will change that into a 355 cu. inch so to get the 383 you need to lengthen the stroke. Parts required are pistons, rods, bearings, different crank if needed and that's just the bare minimum for the bottom end. This does not cover doing any head work or camshaft. Pistons will have to be determined after he has done the boring whether he wants flat tops or domed depending on desired compression ratio. He can deck the block .030 and run flat top pistons and maintain a 9.5-1 compression ratio thereby allowing him to use low grade fuel. $1000 will not cover the cost of the work needed to be done as there is a lot of labor involved. If he has a grand to cover the cost and wants more street light take off power, change out the rear end gear ratio and that may be done for approx. $1K. Machine work is not something everyone can do and it takes a good machinist to do what he wants and I don't see a good one doing all that work for what he wants to pay. Of course this is just MHO.
Tommy
Thanks, but I already have 3.33 rear end gears, and that's about as low as I'd like to go.
Since I'm getting a lot of conflicting information, plus the fact that I no longer care about not overboring the cylinders, I'm moving this to a new thread. Here's the link: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-a-budget.html
As far as I am understanding this thread, the OP wants to change a 350 into a 383 which requires boring the cylinder walls .030. Just boring the engine will change that into a 355 cu. inch so to get the 383 you need to lengthen the stroke.
Correct. That is the whole point of this thread. Could he stroke it to a 383?
Originally Posted by Tommycourt
Parts required are pistons, rods, bearings, different crank
Almost. He either needs rods (from a 400) to use w/his stock postions, OR he needs pistons for a 5.7" (350) rod and a 3.75" stroke crank -or what ever stroke crank he chooses.
Originally Posted by Tommycourt
This does not cover doing any head work or camshaft.
He has stated that for now it's an either/or situation; he'll EITHER do top end stuff now OR stroke it now and retain stock top end.
Originally Posted by Tommycourt
Pistons will have to be determined after he has done the boring whether he wants flat tops or domed depending on desired compression ratio.
No. You choose pistons first, then have the block bored/honed to match the pistons.
Originally Posted by Tommycourt
Machine work is not something everyone can do and it takes a good machinist to do what he wants and I don't see a good one doing all that work for what he wants to pay. Of course this is just MHO.
Tommy
I agree that the OP is into a "shady" area here; I absolutely believe that you can stroke a 350 to ~380 for <$1000. I know I could. Wil it be strong? Will it last? Will it be worth it? Those are all personal things and I don't get the feeling that the OP has the experience to answer those questions at this point. I hope the OP doesn't build a >$1k 383, and in two years put a top end on it and the become dismayed IF it blows, burns oil, etc. You can definitely build a el-cheap-o 383, but there are probably consequences.
^That hasn't been discussed much in this thread so far.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Jul 27, 2014 at 01:23 PM.
Correct. That is the whole point of this thread. Could he stroke it to a 383?
Almost. He either needs rods (from a 400) to use w/his stock postions, OR he needs pistons for a 5.7" (350) rod and a 3.75" stroke crank -or what ever stroke crank he chooses.
He has stated that for now it's an either/or situation; he'll EITHER do top end stuff now OR stroke it now and retain stock top end.
No. You choose pistons first, then have the block bored/honed to match the pistons.
I agree that the OP is into a "shady" area here; I absolutely believe that you can stroke a 350 to ~380 for <$1000. I know I could. Wil it be strong? Will it last? Will it be worth it? Those are all personal things and I don't get the feeling that the OP has the experience to answer those questions at this point. I hope the OP doesn't build a >$1k 383, and in two years put a top end on it and the become dismayed IF it blows, burns oil, etc. You can definitely build a el-cheap-o 383, but there are probably consequences.
^That hasn't been discussed much in this thread so far.
Thanks Tom. I'm definitely not looking to stroke it for $1000, then have it end up costing me thousands more in the long run than if I'd paid more up front. What would you say is the 'sweet spot' for a cheap but fairly reliable 383?
I'm trying to merge this into a new thread, since not overboring no longer matters.
Could you please post further replies in this new thread? http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...-a-budget.html
It can be Done We r talking SBC It's always cheeper Here ya go. Fully Assembled Short Block Get this shipped out tomorrow 1,150.00 150.00 more for a 4-bolt main block with APR Rod Bolts
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-SBC-383-SHORT-BLOCK-NO-CAM-OR-LIFTERS-/171398518453?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27e825d6b5&vxp=mtr
Complete Gasket Set 40 bucks and they even have a cheeper set for 32 bucks
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-283-307-327-350-383-CHEVY-ENGINE-TECH-FULL-GASKET-SET-/261538642061?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ce4eaf88d&vxp=mtr
Here is some valve springs and seals 50 bucks
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-VALVE-SPRINGS-283-305-307-327-350-383-400-VALVE-SEALS-LOCKS-KIT-/271554376668?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f39e6f3dc&vxp=mtr
I.ve done many .010 over with 320 grit Flex Hones and a Mic with main caps oiled and torqued on and a home made junk sbc heads with torch cut holes thru the combustion chambers oiled and torqued down with moly rings end gaped on each cyl. Heck u don't even need the torque plates if he keeps it under 5500 and under 400 horse
It can be done Just do it all urself and grind and clearance the block and pan rails with a Dremal http://www.brushresearch.com/flex-ho...FQSSaQodaF4AQA
Here is a nice 383 Crank and bearings 200 bucks
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-SCAT-9000-SERIES-383-CRANKSHAFT-KING-BEARINGS-2PC-RMS-9103750-2PC-KIT-/331247461617?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d1fe324f1&vxp=mtr
Or Here is a Eagle Stroker kit Balanced with I-beam Rods 650.00
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EAGLE-SBC-BALANCED-ROTATING-ASSEMBLY-355-030-FLAT-TOP-NEW-CRANK-RODS-PISTONS-/320936232659?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab94a46d3&vxp=mtr
U can techincly have a 350 striker but only kinda. I had a full blown 383 striker and small block chevy
i used the crank,rods, and push rods and custom lifters
i still got the stroker just not with the extra strength
pretty much the same thing as a 350 ho but just a little tougher
350 cubic intches stage 3 cam roller rockers
the longer strocker rods from the 383 still do the same thing a stroker does just without the extra cubic inches.
Mom dyno still made 489ft/lbs of torque and 527 hp
video proof of running driving 350 stroker
Last edited by Nathan Nelson; Oct 9, 2019 at 11:43 PM.
Ouch, 2 grand is definitely more than I want to spend, especially just for the short block. Heck, on Summit you can get the whole 383 engine for about 3. I'd prefer not to overbore my own block (modifying it would hurt resale value down the road, right?) but if it would be a lot cheaper I might consider it. What's the cost to just have a block overbored?
I created a 350 striker for about 4K with over 550 hp u can make one for about 1500-2k
Size of the piston , not shape affects the cubic inchs..That's what a normal 383 is, it's a 350 bored .030 over with a 375 crank.. As far as I know there is no other way to make a 383 out of a 350 block.......WW
bore times stroke determines cubic inches. Shape of the piston and head determines compression ratio.
x2 cyls get taper to them in addition to the typical bore wear that should be corrected.
Pistons are different...I hate to see you build a bomb. A bore/hone/line hone with cam bearings installed doesnt that much
Depending on the shop you can get all the basic block machine/prep work done for $500ish +
These online places that advertise balanced rotating assys...yet offer balanced within xx in fine print sends a msg..I mean can you do it dirt joe cheap but is a good idea esp if you re spending good $ on new parts?Some of the bobweights on those are way off so they need more to make them right.
550chp for 1500 lets hear this one. A long rod 350 will not be the same as a 383.
It really doesn't matter; either way will work fine and produce about the same results.
All else being equal a longer stroke and narrower bore will raise peak torque and lower peak horsepower and lower the RPM where both happen compared to the same displacement with a larger bore.