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I can very faintly feel the vibration with the air off. When i turn the air on it becomes MUCH more obvious. I'll take off the belt tomorrow and see what it does. Its such a pita to get that belt on and off.
I can very faintly feel the vibration with the air off. When i turn the air on it becomes MUCH more obvious. I'll take off the belt tomorrow and see what it does. Its such a pita to get that belt on and off.
I know it is and it can and will make you crazy, when you have the belt off before starting motor check all of the driven component's make sure they spin freely especially the A/C see if you can turn the a/c clutch, you can do this by either turning key on and a/c on (not running car) grab the pulley and turn in direction of engine spin. you should feel a bit of a piston feeling but you should be able to turn it with out supper strength, I would also check the idler/tensioner because if that is bad and you put more load on it (H.P. thief A/C) belt tension can go up. once you have done that turn off the a/c and key the a/c clutch will release and the pulley should spin freely, I had a bad a/c bearing the vibration mind blowing thought the car was done.
if your eyes cross when trying to turn the a/c compressor its bad can be big dollars and system will need cleaning along with compressor replacement
Last edited by s carter; Aug 28, 2014 at 09:57 PM.
pull the belt and run it for a minute. wont hurt it for that short a time. if vib. is gone then you know its one of the front engine add ons.. like a/c. water pump,ect.
I can very faintly feel the vibration with the air off. When i turn the air on it becomes MUCH more obvious. I'll take off the belt tomorrow and see what it does. Its such a pita to get that belt on and off.
Did you figure out what the problem was? I'm having similar symptoms in mine. When the AC is on it has a terrible buzzing vibration over 3000 RPM - in or out of gear.
I just took off the compressor to replace my water pump and I saw the bracket that holds it on is cracked. The compressor is also missing a bolt. There are a few other threads by people with similar problems and it sounds like that could be the problem, but I'd be interested to know if yours was caused by something different.
Last edited by C4ProjectCar; Sep 12, 2014 at 08:51 PM.
I’m not a vibration expert but let me toss this out for what it’s worth.
We design the a/c compressor brackets to absorb vibration. Absorb is perhaps a misnomer, to not transmit vibrations is a better phrase. All those different bumps, angles and curves, thick spots as well as thin are all there by design. They are “tuned” mounting brackets.
Missing bolts and a crack in the mounting system will not allow the vibrations to be canceled as designed and they will be felt by the occupants.
So, think you might be on the correct path. Fastener tightness is also important.
I don't know and am just guessing but could it be the "frisbee"?
Tommy
Since it only happens (or is most severe) when the AC is on, I don't think that's it, but thanks for the suggestion.
Originally Posted by jake corvette
I’m not a vibration expert but let me toss this out for what it’s worth.
We design the a/c compressor brackets to absorb vibration. Absorb is perhaps a misnomer, to not transmit vibrations is a better phrase. All those different bumps, angles and curves, thick spots as well as thin are all there by design. They are “tuned” mounting brackets.
Missing bolts and a crack in the mounting system will not allow the vibrations to be canceled as designed and they will be felt by the occupants.
So, think you might be on the correct path. Fastener tightness is also important.
Jake -
Thanks for the explanation! The crack must be it.
The weird thing is that it didn't start vibrating until I took the bracket off and put it back on. And I know I didn't break it when I took it off.
Fastener tightness could also be an issue for me. I just did the bottom compressor bolts to "German specs" (guten tight) because it's impossible to get a torque wrench on them without taking out the wheel well liner, but now that I know that's an issue I'll take off the liner and get them exact.
As far as you know, would epoxying the broken bracket work, or would the difference in the properties of metal and epoxy cause issues?
The bracket on the AIR pump and the alternator was also broken, and I repaired it in this manner.
My 1995 corvette with manual tranny was afflicted by very bad vibration last days.....
What i've done to resolve it?? I've hammered a little the bolt on shift ****,
Remove plate on shift **** with a flat screw driver than hammer the bolt inside
My 1995 corvette with manual tranny was afflicted by very bad vibration last days.....
What i've done to resolve it?? I've hammered a little the bolt on shift ****,
Remove plate on shift **** with a flat screw driver than hammer the bolt inside
Let me know
I'm not sure to what bolt you are referring. I took apart the shifter to replace the shift boots and I only encountered pins and a tiny hex screw.
Regardless, I don't think it's the transmission since it happens while I'm stopped with the clutch in.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I'm not sure to what bolt you are referring. I took apart the shifter to replace the shift boots and I only encountered pins and a tiny hex screw.
Regardless, I don't think it's the transmission since it happens while I'm stopped with the clutch in.
Thanks for the suggestion.
However since it happens when you stopped with clutch in probably isn't this the trouble, in my car this vibration appear only with clutch engaged and engine on Rpm from 1500 to 4000