When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
What's different about the timing cover that you have compared to stock? Is it thinner or does it protrude out more?
I don't know, it just works. I have a non-roller block on an engine stand with a double roller chain and the stock timing cover. It works too.
Cloyes is the brand to buy. You've already found out what happens when you go with a lesser product. Try it with the stock cover. If it doesn't fit get an aftermarket cover. This isn't rocket science.
I don't know, it just works. I have a non-roller block on an engine stand with a double roller chain and the stock timing cover. It works too.
Cloyes is the brand to buy. You've already found out what happens when you go with a lesser product. Try it with the stock cover. If it doesn't fit get an aftermarket cover. This isn't rocket science.
I had a cloyes and it broke which is why I'm skeptical about using them again. Although it was a single roller, it had less than 2k miles on it...
Is this the same one that MrWillys posted? I'd prefer to buy from Summit Racing because the stuff I'm going to buy totals over $100, so I'll get free shipping. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-1100
Popped it I think. Took out a few valves so far. I don't want to get too involved with this but I'm sending the heads and everything to the machine shop to get checked. Forged TRW pistons have small nicks in them. I should have put a double roller in back when I did the cam but I wasn't too aware of what was involved. Thought I had to change a lot of things. By the way it was a cloyes single roller chain for anyone wondering.
You did not mention how much valve lift you are running. I would check the valve train for proper clearance, especially the push rods and rocker arms. Stock rockers can bind at more than .500 lift. The pivot slots are not long enough and can contact the rocker studs at high RPMs. If you are running aftermarket 1.6 ratio rockers, the geometry changes and the push rods can bind where they pass through the heads. The holes need to be enlarged.
During reassembly, make sure the push rods are not bent. You can roll them across a flat surface like plate glass to check them. The machine shop should check for proper spring pressure and installed height when repairing the valves.
Just tossing out some ideas for why the chain failed.
You did not mention how much valve lift you are running. I would check the valve train for proper clearance, especially the push rods and rocker arms. Stock rockers can bind at more than .500 lift. The pivot slots are not long enough and can contact the rocker studs at high RPMs. If you are running aftermarket 1.6 ratio rockers, the geometry changes and the push rods can bind where they pass through the heads. The holes need to be enlarged.
During reassembly, make sure the push rods are not bent. You can roll them across a flat surface like plate glass to check them. The machine shop should check for proper spring pressure and installed height when repairing the valves.
Just tossing out some ideas for why the chain failed.
I'm running Comp Cam 1.6 aluminum non self aligning roller rockers, crane cam hardened chromoly push rods, AFR 195 Eliminator Heads fully assembled, and 0.528" total valve lift.
So I pulled off the timing cover and this is what I found. Mind you, this was a Cloyes chain. It also ruined my timing cover so I'm going to need another one anyway.
I believe it will fit because that's what I use. I have a Flow Cooler pump, Miloden cover and Cloyes double roller chain.
Do you have a link to the Milodon cover? I found a few on Summit Racing's website but I'm not sure which one you have. At least this way I'll know that it will work right off the bat.
Also, I noticed that most of them don't have a timing pointer... I would like to use a timing pointer. Thanks.
I'd want to find the root cause of the failure. Single roller should last a long time w/your flat tappet cam. A lot longer than yours did.
There goes your Dyno day budget. And header budget.
The dyno day for his hotwheels C4?
I want to know just wtf did he do wrong to snap a timing chain...if that's what he really did... if the car's real.... I mean what kind of mechanic, can't even get the fuel pressure right? And doesn't have the sense to dyno tune the car...
I'd want to find the root cause of the failure. Single roller should last a long time w/your flat tappet cam. A lot longer than yours did.
There goes your Dyno day budget. And header budget.
I don't know if it may be related to my valve springs that came with the AFR heads or not. They are rated at 140 @ 1.810 and 356 @ 1.210.
By the time that I'm able to schedule a dyno appointment, something will probably break on the way there. This chain has 1500 miles on it with the stock heads and Isky Racing valve springs, and 500 ish miles on it with the AFR heads.
I think maybe it was a problem with the design quality. There are like 3 teeth left on the crank gear...
I want to know just wtf did he do wrong to snap a timing chain...if that's what he really did... if the car's real.... I mean what kind of mechanic, can't even get the fuel pressure right? And doesn't have the sense to dyno tune the car...
With everyone thread I make, a group of you comes in and starts posting about irrelevant stuff.
I don't know if it may be related to my valve springs that came with the AFR heads or not.
No.
Originally Posted by DanielRicany
By the time that I'm able to schedule a dyno appointment, something will probably break on the way there. This chain has 1500 miles on it with the stock heads and Isky Racing valve springs, and 500 ish miles on it with the AFR heads.
Exactly. That chain should go 100k. 50k EASY, on your flat tappet cam. If I were you, if those pics were from MY actual car....I'd want to figure out what I did wrong during assembly, so that doesn't happen again. THEN, I'd want to go find all those gear teeth and get them out of my oil. That is what I would be doing, if that were my car, and it was a real car.
Originally Posted by DanielRicany
I think maybe it was a problem with the design quality. There are like 3 teeth left on the crank gear...
No way. I don't buy it. In one "corner", we have a VERY reputable timing chain manufacturer, who has made chains and gears for SBC's for what, 60 years? In the other "Corner", we haver Daniel, who can't get his car to run right.
What is the likelihood that the problem is the PART, and not the..."mechanic"?
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Aug 11, 2014 at 05:42 PM.
By the time that I'm able to schedule a dyno appointment, something will probably break on the way there. This chain has 1500 miles on it with the stock heads and Isky Racing valve springs, and 500 ish miles on it with the AFR heads.
Exactly. That chain should go 100k. 50k EASY, on your flat tappet cam. If I were you, if those pics were from MY actual car....I'd want to figure out what I did wrong during assembly, so that doesn't happen again. THEN, I'd want to go find all those gear teeth and get them out of my oil. That is what I would be doing, if that were my car, and it was a real car.
I think maybe it was a problem with the design quality. There are like 3 teeth left on the crank gear...[/QUOTE]No way. I don't buy it. In one "corner", we have a VERY reputable timing chain manufacturer, who has made chains and gears for SBC's for what, 60 years? In the other "Corner", we haver Daniel, who can't get his car to run right.
What is the likelihood that the problem is the PART, and not the..."mechanic"? [/QUOTE]
Well, how the hell do I figure out if I it installed wrong? It only goes on one way.
Well, how the hell do I figure out if I it installed wrong? It only goes on one way.
You act like a mechanic and scrutinze the parts. The alignment of the gears, are there other parts floating around in your oil that were caught in your gears? IDK...you have to look. Or take it to someone who knows what to look for (a real mechanic).
You act like a mechanic and scrutinze the parts. The alignment of the gears, are there other parts floating around in your oil that were caught in your gears? IDK...you have to look. Or take it to someone who knows what to look for (a real mechanic).
The only thing I see is indentations of every tooth of the cam gear. I imagine that's probably a result of the chain snapping. But the chain is snapped, and the teeth were taken off... Not sure which one happened first. But whatever did probably causing the other one to break.