Ok so a little update for those of you that read my thread about the copper in the oil and the video that I posted.

Today I pulled the engine and pulled the pan off and checked all the rod and main bearings. all 8 rod bearings were OK. They definately need ot be changed but they were not wore bad. All 5 mains where wore. Slight signs of copper showing in each one but not extreme. Im glad I caught it when I did.

I also did a leak down on the engine as soon as I got it out of the car. It was obviously cold but I wanted to find out the shape of my valves and rings. Every cylinder had 2% or less of leakage besides cylinder number 5 which had 6% coming out of the exhaust valve. I wacked it a couple times with the rubber mall but 6% was the best I could get. so I am very happy about that. 2% cold on a motor with rings gapped for boost is awesome!

I pulled the oil pump drive gear. It is wore but not extremely bad.

I thought about pulling the cam and checking those bearings but I didnt feel like it tonight. maybe later in the week I will do that.

Another thing I checked was crank end play. It was right at .010.

The copper in the oil filter looked bad. I thought there was more wear than this but I guess not. Unless a cam bearing is shot but I doubt it.

Anyway here are some pics.

I also noticed that My intake ports are full of oil and it appears to be coming from the lifter valley. I had great gaskets on here and to have 4 ports leaking, I think I need to have my intake machined to match the heads.

 

Looks like someone didn't build the motor properly. And maybe it's all that boost making those gaskets leak. I would use silicon on both sides of the gaskets next time.

 

in regard to the oil film in the intake, what sort of PCV setup do you have ?

 

No PVC system. I do have a 1 way check valve from greg at blowerworks that goes from the side of my intake up to the vacume side of intake. Its a 1 way valve so it cant pressurize the crank case. besides that I run 2 open breathers with no blow by. No way for oil to enter the intake.

 

If it was leaking from boost, it would pressurize the crank case not suck oil into the heads from the lifter valley.

 

Not good and I'd be pissed. .010 Crank end play is almost twice where it should be and could be part of why ur bearings are worn.
If you see how ur bearings are worn, dead center of the cap isn't worn, but 9 & 3 o'clock are. not good.
Your/the line hone could of been off and has/could of caused a cocked cap problem. It's that or the crank could be bent or the thrust area on the crank is too thin. My money's on a bad line hone and it can be checked by checking endplay before and after cap installation; if it changes, the cap was incorrectly machined or installed.
Once again, if the endplay is too loose, it will cause accelerated main-bearing wear in general. It should also have fully grooved main bearings with .002 to .003, even thou that will generate oil blow by at the bearings and increase crankshaft windage
Also take a quick plasti-squish and see where the mains were/are

 

Smooth1990,
You never mentioned how many miles on your car and how much of it maybe run on the track or is it a street machine. Would be interested in knowing.
Tommy

 

I agree. I think the install of the caps was botched and the line hone was not done correctly. I am taking the short block over to Clay at Tpis for him to check out and hopefully fix.

 

Its a street car with only maybe 2000 miles on this engine build.

 

Exactly. That's not usual wear. The clearances were probably off. Not sure on what stuff you used, but as far as crank, rods, and bearings, I'd use all high quality stuff.

 

Lol everything in this build is "high quality stuff"..

I know it's not usual wear. That's why the engine is out of the car Daniel.

I will know more in a couple weeks. I have to find time to get this thing over to tpis for inspection.

 

I wouldn't. Their is a lot of good talent elsewhere.

 

Clay at tpis does great work. He has done lots of stuff for me and I've never had a issue.

 

You should check to see if the back side/rear side of the engine, of that thrust bearing is worn the most. That will tell ya if u had/have to stiff of a clutch and have rode it too many times pushed in and or if the boost on the engine has worn that out causing more clearance

 

Is this guy serious lmao. He didn't copy your build list Daniel that's for sure.

 

..... First off ... .010 crank endplay is NOT excessive , its what's recommended ... I don't see that much copper showing through the babbit in your pics , but not all of the mains are shown ... there was definitely a lot of junk embedded in the bearings like the engine was assembled dirty ... as for the 9 and 3 o'clock wear , some high perf bearings have more crush/eccentricity built in than others ... every engine builder has his faves ... I use Clevite H's ....... What oil pan are you using ? .....

 

I just posted the worse main pictures. The bearings have stuff in them. Not sure what's up with that. These bearings are king racing bearings. I am using a canton road race pan.

 

The line hone on the mains wasn't as perfect as it could have been... looks pretty big at the parting line judging by the wear pattern on the brgs. There could also be a problem with some taper in the crankshaft main journals.

The rod brg wear which shows a "shadow" at 12 and 6 o'clock is common in power adder engines. The rest of the wear on those brgs is trash from the main brgs being eaten.

I'm honestly going to say you need more clearance on the rods and mains... espc the mains... You can see where it was striping the upper layer of brg material off the main brgs and that is a clearance problem.

On something like your building I would want .003 min on the mains and .0025 to .003 on the rods.

The good thing is you caught it before it ate itself entirely.

Fix the main line hone, measure and polish/grind the crank straight if nessecary and do whatever you have to do with brgs to get the main and rod clearances I recomended and it'll be fine.

Will

 

Yes, this guy is serious.

 

Thanks for the input Will. I'm glad I caught it as well. Nothing but bearings are damaged. That's good! What are the best bearings on the market?