Hey guys!

I know this has been covered before but I'm in a hurry as rain is coming. My car is a 92 convertible.

My driver window has never been aligned good enough to suit me. Then, the motor crapped out and I replaced it today since it was 70 and I was free.

Now the window goes up too high, way too high. I can't seem to figure out what stops the front. I've loosened everything and lowered the hook in the rear but have not figured it out yet.

Any pointers?

 

Try this link..... post #3: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...djustment.html

(I was going to suggest asking PetrisEnterprises...)

 

Maybe you missed the part about it already being jacked up. I hope to have a better fit than I had before replacing the motor

 

Looks like my front stop is broken.

 

I have to replace that front stop and I think it will be good. Nothing is catching up front. If I stop the window short it seals but it requires finesse until the stop gets replaced.

 

I think 1992 windows had the guide in them....I know 1993's do. More than likely the black plastic guide is broken...and it is attached to the glass itself...which contacts the metal stop...to stop the window at the front.

DUB

 

I had the same problem in my 1994. Replacing the stop is pretty easy once you get the door panels and handle supports off. To do this, you need to drill the pop rivets to remove the door handle.

There is also a special window nut tool. Makes the removal and installation of the window nuts easy.

Once its in place, it seems everything stops where it should on raising the window.

Any questions.

Just ask.

jim

 

Me too. I wish the procedure was in the FSM.

 

WHAT???? I have never needed to drill out any rivets get a door panel off....handle or anything associated with it I have done numerous and never drilled out any rivets for any reason to replace the window guide/stop.

That I totally agree with. A much needed tool and I have one...thank goodness.

I am lost on what you are drilling out and why you are drilling it out.

DUB

 

Aligning the glass and getting it to seal is somewhat very easy. GM got wise and made it much easier than on the earlier Corvettes....that is for sure. More possibilities to adjust and move the glass where needed...versus the earlier Corvettes.

A lot will have to do with type of weatherstrips you have. Because if they are not latex...then the density of these weatherstrips can effect on how you get it to seal...and can effect how it goes up...but usually will not effect how you can get it to fit into the opening where it should go. Because fine adjustment can be done with the door open and checking it with the glass up and closing the door.

One thing if you have looked at your window adjustments....is that when the door glass is up...you can get to some of the bolts that hold the glass to the regulator...thus allowing the door glass to be loosened or even slightly loose when you are raising the regulator and getting it to fit in the area needed. AND this also included the tilt or pivot bracket at the back...that tilts the glass where you want it.

So..leaving the tilt bracket loose so the glass will tilt...and raising up the front stop.

I can raise the door glass and slowly close the door and check the fit....then....if it looks close...and if I need to move the glass...I can use my large suction cup and move the glass manually to fit.....close the door so the window will tilt like it needs to and then get in the car from the other side and begin tightening up the loose bolts and pivot, etc. Set my upper felt stops. The open the door....lower the glass...then raise it and check it for fit again...and then close the door. Then get in the car and close the door again with the door glass up....get the window to go down...and then go up and watch how it rides up into the weatherstrips. Then begin to determine if I need to manually tilt the glass in or out a bit more or what ever I need.

This is where the FUN begins if the car has dense aftermarket weatherstrips on it. Finding that spot where the glass works perfectly...and seals out water..and will actually go all the way up....OH BOY....that is the FUN part. Sometimes...it just will not happen..SO...the door WILL HAVE TO be open to get the glass to go all the way up and then closed...because many of these crappy weatherstrips are so dense...they are binding the glass..and not soft like a marshmallow like GM's latex weatherstrips were...and how the car was designed for that type of weatherstrips.

These door glass adjustments are not that big of a deal...but I have done more than I can count and prefer to adjust a 1984-1996 Corvette glass than an earlier year...and the C5 door glass is easier than a C4.

I do not know if this answered anyone questions or issues. Hopefully so.

DUB

 

Look on page 10-6-12 of book 2 of 2, ST 964-341 1B, WINDOW GUIDE CHANNEL.

 

Well what I am drilling out are some pop rivets that hold the inner mounting plate to the door panel and the door handle to the inner mounting plate.

You either have Ken doll size arms and hands with Superman strength or have a different door. My size 10 hands will not fit inside the door without the inner mounting plate removed. Getting tools inside the door without the inner mounting plate off would not be possible.

The Chevrolet Corvette Service Manual ST384-941 1B (Book 2 of 2) on page 10-6-12 explains the procedure.

Now it might be possible to remove the inner panel without removing the door handle rivets. But I found it much easier to drill the pop rivets from the handle also. It allows you to remove the rod keeper and the panel comes off easily. It would be impossible (in my opinion) to get access to the front lower glass without removing the inner panel first.

The rivets drill out easily with a 1/8 inch drill bit. Be careful and gentle as the aluminum panel is not very thick. When reassembling door, install 1/8 inch aluminum pop rivets into holes and finish assembly of door.

Hint: Put door handle rivets on only after securing rod keeper. Not enough room to get the keeper off or on once panel is in place with door handle secured by rivets.

You said you have done it many times so I guess I must be mistaken.

See pictures.

Inner panel.

Inner panel with rivets removed from rear attach point.

Inner panel removed showing access to inside of door.

 

Pictures are here

 

I was able to finesse the aluminum inner door assy out w/o disconnecting the handle at all.

Wiggle wiggle up down and out, still connected to the rods. I let if drop down and was able to get the regulator assy out too. I can still open the door from inside while I work on getting that guide ordered and replaced.

 

akbeaver.

I understand what rivets you are talking about.

I remove this plate differently...thus I do not have to drill out these rivets. That plate that is staying on the door in your photos goes with the large plate when I take it out or move it to do 'whatever'. And that is to replace the plastic window guide....or even change out a regulator.

DUB

 

You can of course use whatever method works for you. Being that I like to follow the Service Manual, I will drill the rivets and replace them when I reassemble. Takes about two minutes each way. I got a pop rivet tool with 4 different sizes of aluminum rivets for $3.99 at Harbor Freight. Came with a lifetime warranty also.

No need to wiggle and possibly bend the inner mounting panel.

But I say whatever works for you. It's all good.

 

DUB