Did test from post #13 & bought a new battery. Lights didn't dim or anything.

I have to go get a meter to test these wires you all have mentioned.

 

It's an automatic. Tried to start on both park and natural with no luck. I'll advise about the wires powers free I buy a meter to gauge it.

 

Are you hearing a "click" when you turn the key to the crank position?

 

When I put it in start there is click near the battery as the fan turns on.

 

Here is what I'm working with. I'm starting to think it's eggs darn locks

1984 Corvette C4 won't start:

 

The TDS (Theft Deterrent System) will disable the starter when it is armed. The flashing SECURITY light says that is it NOT armed, so you're OK there.

There is a starter enable relay behind the center cluster area behind where all the status lights are. That relay should click when you turn the ignition key to the start position (I did not hear that click in the video). Some people bypass that relay, so it's possible that somebody has messed with your system. This video shows a bypassed relay (the car in the video has VATS, but the same relay was used for '84 and '85 with the TDS system):


If your relay is there, then the connection between the ignition switch and the relay is bad or there is a problem in the TDS module.

 

I removed the white relay system and will get a wire to bypass in a bit. VATS: http://youtu.be/Hw2tuwfdszU
Engine Click on driver side:

 

VATS:

 

Your car does not have VATS. That was introduced in 1986. The TDS system that you have uses the same relay to disable the starter. You need to get into your center cluster and find out what is happening in there. Take the bezel off and take out the switches and DIC (Driver's Information Center). You will see something like this:



The starter enable relay is the one with the yellow wires (next to the blue chime module). The wires might be a different color on your car. Check out that relay and its connector to see if somebody has changed anything. That relay should click when you turn the ignition key to the start position.

 

You need to TEST, something. I suggested earlier to start at the starter, Cliff is suggesting the relay in the dash. Either place will tell you something, and the next step after that would be to move through the circuit, testing for power. When you find the point where power "ends" you have found your problem. Cliff's suggestion is probably easier place to start.

 

Bypass:
I have her jacked up now. I'm testing the starter and stuff with this.

 

Starter:

 

Excellent work and video! Now we're getting somewhere. Thanks for posting your efforts!

In the first vid IDK if you "jumped" the right wires Looking at this schematic (top left diagram. Disregard the other three):

...it looks like you should be jumping a Dark Green wire w/a white trace to a Pink wire (wire looks purple in your first vid). Are those the wires that you jumped? I think that you did, which only proved one thing: the relay MAY not be bad. Probably isn't bad, but we still don't know where you have power to.

In the second vid, you want to put your test light probe on the small wire on the solenoid while the key is in the crank position. It would be the smaller silver threaded posts on the left or on the right, in this pic:


Is the dash still apart? In wiring diagram above, you can see the flow of electrical power to the starter;
Battery > fuse box > ignition switch > Park/Neutral safety switch (in center console by shifter) > start interrupt relay (in the dash) > small post on starter solenoid.

SO, The easiest place to start is by going back to the relay in the dash and check for power there, at the Dar Green/White wire using your test light, with the key in the crank position.

If you have power, the problem is after or including the relay and we can test for that. If you don't have power, then we need to move "backward" in the circuit toward the battery....either testing for part at the P/N safety switch (easy to get to) or at the ignition switch (a little harder to get to).

Test for power at the start relay in the dash, key in crank position.

.

 

Good advice from Cliff and Tom.. follow there directions.
My only concern in the video is the ground connection on that tester. Are you sure your getting a good connection? Make sure that alligator clip is touching bare metal.

When connected to that ground put your probe on a known working 12v something to make sure the light turns on.

Once you verified your ground connection, place that probe on the large red wire at the starter and hold that probe there. I'm sure your already aware not to let that probe to come in contact with both a positive and negative... just putting it out there. safety first.

 

Update: so I jumped the starter and it works just fine so it's not that. I didn't get any power from the starter relay connections - I probably didn't do something right. Also, a buddy had me check the distributor cap plugs for power but no luck. He said his c4 wouldn't start be a fewhe had a bad module. Next is checking the ignition switch.

 

Super. starter works, confirmed.


If you tested for power at the relay Dark Green/white wire with the key in the crank position and no power, then you're right to move back toward the ignition switch.


None of this matters, if the starter won't run.

 

Once you've done this, my next move would be to test that Safety Neutral switch

 

So even if the module is acting up and there is no "fire" thats okay?

 

No, that isn't "O.K.", but that is not the problem that you're having. The problem that I understand you to be having is that when you turn the key to "CRANK", the starter motor doesn't run, and turn the crank shaft. So the car doesn't start because it's not cranking. The ignition module has absolutely nothing to do w/the starting circuit and/or the starter motor. Stay on the path that you are on; diagnose the starting circuit. Find out why you aren't getting power to the starter motor, following the steps given above.


EDIT: I should have mentioned this much earlier in the thread....have you checked the fuses? There should be one labelled "Crank".

 

Fuses: http://youtu.be/zE5MatHbY28