C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

87 wont start

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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 01:14 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by gearhead383
I guess I'm not explaining this correctly. That's what I did. The first contact inside the distributor cap the rotor is pointing at was my number 1 plug wire. That didn't work so from where I originally had "#1" I moved to where the respective six would be then did thebfiring order from there. Basicly starting the #1 plug wire 180 from where the rotor is pointing.
Sounds like you may have had it right, but now it's off 180.

Do the procedure again. Ensure that you're on the compression>power TDC.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 01:18 PM
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I did. Bared the engine over three times to insure I was on the correct stroke and everything. It wouldn't start. Then I flip the wires 180 and it works
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 02:53 PM
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Well if it didn't work before, but works now, then you had it 180 out to begin with.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 02:54 PM
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Apparently so, regardless I think its running lean still. What is optimal fuel pressure?
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 03:11 PM
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This is a head scratcher. Is it possible the distributor is shorting or arcing?
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by gearhead383
Well firstly I'd like to say thanks for the optimism.
Now, after doing a stroke pattern we switched 1&6 being they are in the same stroke and all the other plug wires around based on their stroke pattern. Magicly the car started. Barley holds on for a second and dies. Manifolds got warm really quick. So my next two questions are
1) what is the optimal fuel pressure in the rails supposed to be (I have a adjustable fuel pressure reg.)
2 ) does anyone have any idea how that would work. With cap lined up with the rotor on the original #1 piston plug wire moving the wire to number 6 makes it start and so on. My brain hurts yet again. Blah!
Fuel pressure should be between 34-47 psi. Have you checked it yet?
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 12:36 AM
  #27  
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Yes just confirmed it today. Its riding right at 40 psi after the fuel pressure reg. I wanna get a little more pressure though. Then to top it all off I was messing with timing and I had to shut the car off when it hit 200 degress. Fan won't turn on. So now I'm gun shy cause I don't wanna gamble on losing track of temp and damaging anything with all the fresh work done.
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by gearhead383
Yes just confirmed it today. Its riding right at 40 psi after the fuel pressure reg. I wanna get a little more pressure though. Then to top it all off I was messing with timing and I had to shut the car off when it hit 200 degress. Fan won't turn on. So now I'm gun shy cause I don't wanna gamble on losing track of temp and damaging anything with all the fresh work done.
There is a switch on the passenger side of the engine below the plugs near the oil dipstick tube. I believe it is the cooling fan temp switch. Make sure it is not damaged or disconnected. It may have a plastic, rectangular cover on it. There is also a water temp switch on the drivers side of engine below the plugs near the alternator bracket. this one resembles the knock sensor. Make sure it is not damaged or disconnected.
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 10:49 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by gearhead383
Yes just confirmed it today. Its riding right at 40 psi after the fuel pressure reg. I wanna get a little more pressure though. Then to top it all off I was messing with timing and I had to shut the car off when it hit 200 degress. Fan won't turn on. So now I'm gun shy cause I don't wanna gamble on losing track of temp and damaging anything with all the fresh work done.
The 87 fan won't turn on until the temps get to about 220-230 degrees. 200 isn't really that hot.............
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Rod Schneider
The 87 fan won't turn on until the temps get to about 220-230 degrees. 200 isn't really that hot.............
O ok didn't know that part. 200 made me uncomfortable while messing with tuning so I played it safe.
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 09:17 PM
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Could the problem be in the valves? I'd check to make sure the push rods were seated properly in their respective lifters. Also, check to make sure the valves haven't been over tightened. Zero lash plus one turn I believe. Is it possible the exhaust is plugged up? Too much back pressure? Not sure where else to look. Maybe swap the distributor with the 85 to see if the problem is still there. The engine did run before it was torn down, right? ECM? Oh, when you ran the timing light did you remember to disconnect the timing connector?
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by scooter mcfly
Could the problem be in the valves? I'd check to make sure the push rods were seated properly in their respective lifters. Also, check to make sure the valves haven't been over tightened. Zero lash plus one turn I believe. Is it possible the exhaust is plugged up? Too much back pressure? Not sure where else to look. Maybe swap the distributor with the 85 to see if the problem is still there. The engine did run before it was torn down, right? ECM? Oh, when you ran the timing light did you remember to disconnect the timing connector?
I got the car running now. Need to up the fuel pressure. Compression is comfortably at 152 psi on all 8. Fine tune timing and fuel should be good. The distributor was 180 off.
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by gearhead383
I got the car running now. Need to up the fuel pressure. Compression is comfortably at 152 psi on all 8. Fine tune timing and fuel should be good. The distributor was 180 off.
That's great. Told you you'd get it. Now we just have to get through Christmas
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Old Dec 5, 2014 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by scooter mcfly
That's great. Told you you'd get it. Now we just have to get through Christmas
Between that and the other two vetted I got. They don't run either.
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