87 wont start
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
87 wont start
ok yall were a big help on my 85 now I got my 87 back together and it wont run. here is the run down. bought it with bad head gaskets. tore down repolaced gaskets resurfaced heads the angle cut on valves all new top end seals and gaskets. all the wires went back perfectly new plugs wires cap and rotor. cleaned the injectors. fuel rail pressurizes up to 42 psi when primed. confirmed plugs are sparking as advertised and there isn't any air obstruction. due to lack of experience I'm curious if the injectors arnt opening? that's about all I came up with. suggestions?
Racer
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 265
Likes: 5
From: Phoenix AZ
The engine turns over but doesn't start... is that correct? Have you tried spraying starter fluid into the intake? If it starts you know you're not getting fuel to the engine. Check the breaker for the fuel injectors. May have blown. Can you hear them pulsing when trying to start? This is quite the problem. Curious to see how it works out.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 25
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Yes I did. The mechanical advance is hooked up the 4 pin connector is connected. Power is supplied. Rotor is lined up on the number one pin inside the cap and engine was lined up at tdc. As far as timing I feel its spot on.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,751
Likes: 276
From: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Check the compression, i remember when i did the valve lash on my 383 she refused to start. Turned out the one turn in from zero lash as per shop manual was wrong for the lifters i used.
Look at your plugs are they wet with fuel ? you say you have fuel pressure so it looks like something simple? check you have 12 volts to the distributor module.
Remember the harmonic ballancer outer ring can slip, make sure you feel the piston is at top dead center. I usually use a small thin screwdriver to fee the piston height when i slowly crank the engine over by hand.
When at top dead center you should install the distributor with the rotor pointing between 1 and 8 when you install it fully it will point to no 1. Remember usually the oil pump drive will need to be adjusted with a long screwdriver to get the distributor in the correct position.
Don't forget about the big multiple pin plug to harness for the distributor, make sure it is driven fully home into the connector.
It is easy to use a jumper lead to check a spark plug fires, remove the plug then fit the plug metal body into the jumper lead that is connected to battery ground or chassis.
Then crank the engine and look for sparks.
Look at your plugs are they wet with fuel ? you say you have fuel pressure so it looks like something simple? check you have 12 volts to the distributor module.
Remember the harmonic ballancer outer ring can slip, make sure you feel the piston is at top dead center. I usually use a small thin screwdriver to fee the piston height when i slowly crank the engine over by hand.
When at top dead center you should install the distributor with the rotor pointing between 1 and 8 when you install it fully it will point to no 1. Remember usually the oil pump drive will need to be adjusted with a long screwdriver to get the distributor in the correct position.
Don't forget about the big multiple pin plug to harness for the distributor, make sure it is driven fully home into the connector.
It is easy to use a jumper lead to check a spark plug fires, remove the plug then fit the plug metal body into the jumper lead that is connected to battery ground or chassis.
Then crank the engine and look for sparks.
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Very good point. So with a full assembled engine other then the zero line on the harmonic balancer is there another way to confirm I am in fact at tdc on #1 cylinder?
Racer
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 265
Likes: 5
From: Phoenix AZ
Yes. With a compression tester attached to #1 cylinder turn engine over manually. On compression stroke both valves are closed. The gauge will show compression. Keep turning until it begins to drop off. That's TDC.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2014
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Ok so update. Injectors pulse, plugs spark air is unobstructed. Without doing the final adjustment valves are at 140 psi after 5 revolutions. Crank the car over nothing. Tried starting fluid....it poped up out the intake. Now I understand your first thought is I'm an idiot and didn't time the car correctly. This is where I get lost. #1 cylinder valves both flat (closed) harmonic balancer lined up at 0 degree (tdc) confirmed with small screw driver. And rotor inside dist. Cap lined up on number 1 cylinder. Crank it over with timing light and no balancer line to be seen. Good god please tell me I'm dumb and missing something simple because my brain hurts.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 265
Likes: 5
From: Phoenix AZ
Ok so update. Injectors pulse, plugs spark air is unobstructed. Without doing the final adjustment valves are at 140 psi after 5 revolutions. Crank the car over nothing. Tried starting fluid....it poped up out the intake. Now I understand your first thought is I'm an idiot and didn't time the car correctly. This is where I get lost. #1 cylinder valves both flat (closed) harmonic balancer lined up at 0 degree (tdc) confirmed with small screw driver. And rotor inside dist. Cap lined up on number 1 cylinder. Crank it over with timing light and no balancer line to be seen. Good god please tell me I'm dumb and missing something simple because my brain hurts.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Well firstly I'd like to say thanks for the optimism.
Now, after doing a stroke pattern we switched 1&6 being they are in the same stroke and all the other plug wires around based on their stroke pattern. Magicly the car started. Barley holds on for a second and dies. Manifolds got warm really quick. So my next two questions are
1) what is the optimal fuel pressure in the rails supposed to be (I have a adjustable fuel pressure reg.)
2 ) does anyone have any idea how that would work. With cap lined up with the rotor on the original #1 piston plug wire moving the wire to number 6 makes it start and so on. My brain hurts yet again. Blah!
Now, after doing a stroke pattern we switched 1&6 being they are in the same stroke and all the other plug wires around based on their stroke pattern. Magicly the car started. Barley holds on for a second and dies. Manifolds got warm really quick. So my next two questions are
1) what is the optimal fuel pressure in the rails supposed to be (I have a adjustable fuel pressure reg.)
2 ) does anyone have any idea how that would work. With cap lined up with the rotor on the original #1 piston plug wire moving the wire to number 6 makes it start and so on. My brain hurts yet again. Blah!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 25
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I guess I'm not explaining this correctly. That's what I did. The first contact inside the distributor cap the rotor is pointing at was my number 1 plug wire. That didn't work so from where I originally had "#1" I moved to where the respective six would be then did thebfiring order from there. Basicly starting the #1 plug wire 180 from where the rotor is pointing.
