Do they make a such tool? I have seen in a archieved thread a part # (J6637) but there was no tool brand name to look up.

Doing a pad change I snapped a wheel stud on each of the rear wheels :crazy:

 

I used a hammer and a socket extension. Worked fine. Don't bang on the stud too hard. Tap it over and over and eventually it will fall out. Putting the new stud in is easier. You can use an old lug nut to pull the stud through the wheel flange. Place a washer under the lug to keep from damaging the flange.
:cheers:

 

I ended up liking just a big C-clamp. Not one of those wally-world specials (will bend), but a real strong C-clamp. I think we ended up with a 6", but check for fit before you buy. I just put a socket behind the stud and poped them out.

Gives me the creeps to pound on those wheel bearings.

 

Yeah they say to NOT beat the studs out because the can damage the wheel bearings and I don't know about the rest of you but I HATE replacing wheel bearings on these things and buying them is just as bad..... The correct tool resembles a C-clamp :yesnod:

 

Check out your local AZone. Grab the ball joint press, loaner. The end is open. It should be big enough for the lug to fit through. If not, use the sleeve that comes w/ it.

 

I replaced the front ones on my 86 with longer studs. They were a bear to pop out. A couple of them sounded like a rifle shot when they finally broke loose. Soak them up with penetrating oil first.

 

and when you go back together use never seize on the lug nuts so it won't happen again

 

I just pound mine out. Thats what I did and most shops do.

 

the proper tool is called a ball peened hammer. just tighten up a couple of lugs on the rotor to keep it stabilized and knock the stud out. surely GM made wheel bearings tough enough to take a lick now and then (they race them). torque lugnuts at 100 ft,lbs is most important and watch out for any mechanic with an impact wrench

 

Hmmm that gets me thinking....what if I leave the tire on and hit a round piece of stock against the broken stud :D


[Modified by Kevin McGrade, 10:56 AM 8/6/2002]

 

I have a K-D stud puller tool I bought a few years ago to remove some exhaust manifold studs. Cost around $30.00. It is stamped with the number 1708. It's a heavy duty cylinder with a dime sized hole for the stud. It has a serrated wheel in the middle that grips the stud and uses a 1/2" drive for leverage. That sucker will remove any stud.

 

Is this it?

 

Yes, that's it. However it just dawned on me that if you broke the stud off flush this tool won't help. You need about 1 inch of stud to get a grip.

 

Actually they didn't break off flush and I am guessing I have about that much hanging out of the flange :yesnod:
How exactly does that thing work :confused:

 

It wouldn't work for a wheel stud because they are not threaded in. They have splines that help form a press fit. The c-clamp / socket idea sounds like the cheapest / safest, if you already have the tool. Otherwise it's tough to beat the free tool rental at autozone.

 

If this was a poll, I would vote for the hammer. I have done it many times on many cars, always with a hammer. :jester

 

Guys,

I have a related problem relevant to this discussion. Thankfully it does not involve my LT4 but rather my daughter's VW Jetta. (Hence it has become MY problem). But it is a variation on the broken stud problem and I am desperate for some good advice. Here's the issue:

The 1997 Jetta uses bolts which thread right into a tapped hole on the hub instead of lug nuts on studs. A lunatic who worked on my daughter's car put an air wrench on one of the bolts and, attempting to remove it, totally rounded it out, just spun the living dookie out of it. It is one ugly looking mess.

This bolt is recessed into the Jetta rim about 1" to 1 1/2". It is an alloy 4 spoke rim. Is there any type of tool designed for this situation that anyone is aware of? I've had some guys say there is a "hammer-on" type of "grabber" which, sort of spline-like, can be driven onto and grab the remaining rounded bolt head. You then torque the bolt off with a breaker bar. I've also had guys say there is a type of external easy-out, a sort of socket with a reversed, hardened toroidal shape that you can impact wrench and spin down on and over a rounded lug or bolt. This will in theory burrow itself onto the damaged bolt, grab it, and spin it off.

Anyone hear of any such thing? Any other suggestions? Is it possible to gas torch the sucker off without destroying the rim?

I'm really up the creek on this. This is cutting into my time to work on my Vette!

Help! :cry


[Modified by Tom Mieczkowski, 7:40 PM 8/6/2002]

 

Can you get a center punch on the bolt head, punch it, and then drill the head off? Once you've got the head off you could use pliers or a stud remover like the one pictured above a few posts to remove what's left of the bolt.

 

91 Mongoose:
You might consider a 12 point socket slightly small in diamater than the bolt. Tap it onto the bolt and then back it out with a breaker bar. I've seen this done numerious times on wheel locks that have been rounded over.


[Modified by ittlfly, 7:32 PM 8/6/2002]

 

Sorry, I had to go out for a while. There is a pin running from the back of the cylinder through the serrated wheel to the socket. When you turn the socket the wheel revolves inside the cylinder. To use, you turn the wheel out of the way, place the hole in the cylinder on the stud and turn the wheel so it locks onto the stud. Using a 1/2" breaker bar in the socket forces the wheel against the stud and turns it out. Pretty bad explaination but it's very simple if you had the tool. I never broke a wheel stud but it seems it would turn it out although turning the splines might enlarge the hole. Good luck