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Plumbed = lines are connected to what they should be connected to.
line from TB is a filtered air source originating before the throttle plates = no vacuum.
PCV line to intake manifold = vacuum source.
While putting the power steering pump and bracket back on today, I noticed that two of the bolts securing the bracket to the block and to the head only go into their respective holes about 1/4" due to the thickness of the bracket they go through. The FSM gives a torque spec of 18 lb-ft, so that seems suspect to me. Is that normal, or should I go buy some longer bolts?
Also, the power steering bracket bolt holes don't line up, I suspect because the heads were planed and/or the block was decked (there's one bolt hole below on the block, and two more on the side of the head). Since people have their heads planed and their blocks decked all the time, is there a usual way to make the bracket fit? I was thinking of just elongating the holes in the bracket a bit since there is ample material to remove.
Last edited by C4ProjectCar; Jun 13, 2015 at 05:16 PM.
Threaded bolt length calc the shade tree method:
Minimum thread length.
In cast iron or steel: The thickness of a standard nut + 3 threads.
In aluminum: 1.5 the thickness of a standard nut + 3 threads.
Since your technical there is a method using bolt major diameter & TPI. Suggest Google
for info I am short on time.
I'll probably be looking at starting it within a few days unless I run into some monumental problem with the intake manifold or something. Needless to say, after reading all the dire warnings about cylinder glazing, I'm a bit nervous.
How quickly do I need to start putting load on the engine (driving it) after startup? I'm sure I will need to set the timing, I may need to look for and deal with leaks, and I suspect the idle will be much too low. Should I wait to deal with those things until I've driven it a bit?
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Dont know what your worried bout. Cyl glazing? Well for decades we had to break in the flat tappet cam first which was at least 20min above 2,000rpm. U have a roller cam that should make it easy for you. Now your talking loading the engine? Seems like you are too worried and making your own difficulties. U could put the car on jacks/blocks and engage the trans to turn the tires if you need to load it?
Not sure if that answers your question but good luck and look for leaks.
Here's what I've heard:
On a new cylinder, the bore has sharp ridges and grooves in it from the honing process. Under light-load circumstances such as idling or cruising at constant speed, combustion byproducts can react with the engine oil and form a smooth varnish on the cylinder walls, filling in the grooves. Since these grooves are what retain oil, lubricating the walls and minimizing oil consumption, glazing will lead to faster ring wear and high oil consumption.
I hadn't thought about the break-in period required for flat-tappet cams. The fact that countless engines have run for 20min before actually driving definitely makes me feel better about the process.
Any spots in particular leaks are common? I think the rear china wall, the valve covers, and the oil pan are the common leaks?
EDIT: Just looked into glazing a bit more. My understanding was a bit off, so I changed the above text.
Last edited by C4ProjectCar; Jun 20, 2015 at 05:21 PM.
Set the timing. To do so find the EST wire above the brake booster its a single tan wire with a black stripe connected together with a black weather pack connector. Separate the connector, set the timing @ 6* BTDC, reconnect the EST.
The IAC should keep the idle at an acceptable level. In the event it is not functioning properly set the base idle with the throttle stop screw, address the IAC issue later.
Do not worry about cylinder glazing run the engine in the shop for as long as it takes to get all issues sorted you will "bed" the piston rings during your first drive.
To "bed" the rings: Water & oil up to operating temp, use 2nd or 3rd gear. Beginning @ 2000 rpm make a full throttle pull to 4000 rpm then get off the throttle & let the car decelerate in gear back to 2000 rpm. Do this 9 more times then drive easy for 5 minutes
to normalize engine temps. It is now time to enjoy your build, hammer down.
[QUOTE
EDIT: Just looked into glazing a bit more. My understanding was a bit off, so I changed the above text.[/QUOTE]
cylinder wall glazing? ring seating? whatever happened to pouring a spoonful of Bon Ami or Comet cleanser down the carbureator throat during the first start up? Yeah, I'm old enough to remember that
I finished putting the accessories on today, so all that's left is to put on the intake manifold, distributor cap, and flywheel shield, and fill it with coolant and transmission fluid. I'm busy tomorrow and most of Monday, but hopefully I can be ready to start it Tuesday. I can't wait!
As I should have expected, I ran into a few problems that delayed me. Anyway, now I have it pretty much entirely back together. But I've run into another probem. A big one this time.
I went to put the spark plugs in, and I couldn't get one started for the life of me. After messing with it for a while, I've decided the spark plug holes are at different angles and/or in different locations so the exhaust manifold gets in the way of aligning the plug with the hole to put it in.
What do I do, short of getting a different exhaust manifold? I know shorter spark plugs exist, but I can't find how much shorter they are. Should they solve my problem?
Do the exhaust manifolds have heat shields on them????? IF so, remove them and you will probably gain the room you need for the plugs. Had to do that to my 85.
Shorter plugs is also a potential solution.
Don't worry about glazing. It doesn't happen that often. Chances are your Dad will be driving it while your away at school and will decide you need a C7 and trade it in .
Here's a picture to show you what the problem is. See, the spark plugs are above the manifold, but angled down so they are very close to and/or hit it.
I pulled the heat shield off the driver's side, but clearance is still an issue. I could only get 3 of 4 plugs in, and even those in there were so close to the manifold that the boot would be touching the manifold or be uncomfortably close to it. However, shorter plugs may fix it.
I called all the local auto parts stores, but none of them could find a long reach shorty plug for my car in their systems. I did some research online, and found that the Accel 0416s plugs (as well as several others) will work. I plan to call around with part numbers to see if they have any in stock.
However, even with shorter plugs it may not work. The only remaining contingency I could think of was replacing my manifolds with headers. However, I can't figure out how headers would work. All the headers I see have the collectors (I think this is the right term?) coming off the back horizontally, whereas stock manifolds connect to the y-pipe vertically in the middle. It looks to me like you'd need a new y-pipe? Given that the precats are on the y-pipe, how does that work? And what would I be looking at cost-wise for replacing my manifolds with shorty headers?
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Wow dude, u got the whammy from AFR. I wonder what cars those heads were made for. No wonder they are no longer in production. Well this isnt the first surprise for u and im sure youll get through it.
Im thinking your wasting your money on fancy spark plugs. Those plugs look low and would match over the top manifolding much better. If u cant afford headers then i wouldnt waste money on plugs or expensive mods to your manifolds. I would try over the top exh manifolds like on my 4th gen camaro (firebird) or even the good old ram horn exh manifolds - used on C3 vettes and 3rd gen camaros and even trucks had them (but had a different exit to exh pipe). U will still need custom pipes from the cast manifolds but not much $$$ for those - any muffler shop w/pipe bender can make it(them). Id send u my used '94 camaro LT1 exh manifolds but shipping would be more than what u could find local on craigs list or in the pick your parts boneyard.
Give AFR a call also just to hear what they say to do.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
I would try over the top exh manifolds like on my 4th gen camaro (firebird) or even the good old ram horn exh manifolds - used on C3 vettes and 3rd gen camaros and even trucks had them (but had a different exit to exh pipe).
well that's pretty messed up. you're in california so you'll take a big chance in changing anything on the exhaust side between the heads and the catalytic converters. but then you do have spark plug issues that have to be addressed. and your spark boots, even with added heat insulation, are gonna get fried.
The exhaust manifolds appear to be stock cast iron, are they? these are excellent manifolds but cast iron manifolds are difficult to modify if any clearance issues arise. After market manifolds (header) that are smog legal? last time I priced a set of shorty headers that were CARB / smog legal the price was in the neighborhood of $1,600 and no guarantee that your clearance issues will be solved.
What I would suggest is a set of earlier stock manifolds which are tubular stainless steel...they look stock...well, because they are stock...but most important tubular exhausts can be "dimpled" for clearance, or even, if a welder has access to a TIG welder, they can be modified by being cut, and welded as needed. Shouldn't attract too much attention during the "visual" (and highly subjective) part of the smog inspection.
good luck; it's obvious that whoever was building that engine initially didn't plan on putting it in a vette.
The problem is no doubt with the stock exhaust manifolds due to the raised "D" port exhaust on stock 113 heads.
Been a few years, IIRC for the 113's & ZZ4 heads there is a 3/8" height difference for
the manifold mounting bolt hole center line on the horizontal plane as compared to standard heads.
Sorted a similar issue several years ago searching for headers to fit 113 heads in a 57 Chevy. Patriot was the only manufacturer that offered chassis headers for raised D port exhaust in a tri-5.
The heads in use probably have standard exhaust ports. Reference Gen 1 iron heads.
Beside the plug clearance issue you will probably experience leaking exhaust @ manifold to head due to port/manifold miss match.
SWAG: 84 & 85 Vettes had gen 1 style iron heads those exhaust manifolds may be a bolt on for your current heads + there should not be an emission issue. I will check my Vette parts book later to verify a part number change on early to 90 year model manifolds & gaskets.
Suggest removing the manifolds to check port configuration on your heads, they need to be removed anyway.
There may be a possibility that the manifold mounting holes could be slotted upward enough with a round file or burr in a grinder. This procedure will lower the manifold for plug clearance & possibly make a good gasket seal @ the port. Your call on this modification the amount of metal @ each bolt hole will determine how much the manifold can be lowered.
later
BTW, look at the exhaust ports on your old engine the mounting holes for the manifolds are NOT centered to the port. Your new heads probably have the mounting holes centered.
Last edited by Churchkey; Jun 28, 2015 at 10:15 AM.
Is the heat shield remove all the way..both halves? You have to remove the whole thing. From "distant memory" I think I had to loosen the manifold bolts or remove the manifold to get them off.
Check the state regulations to see if there are a set of headers that are CARB legal. I know that there were none for the 85. If you can't find a set that are legal. There is another option. With the heat shields off, the exhaust manifold is tube stock and not cast iron...is that correct? If they are tube stock like my 85, then you could take a torch and heat the tube and punch it in where the plug is too close. Not pretty, but it would work.
Last edited by John A. Marker; Jun 28, 2015 at 10:13 AM.
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Check the state regulations to see if there are a set of headers that are CARB legal. I know that there were none for the 85. If you can't find a set that are legal. There is another option. With the heat shields off, the exhaust manifold is tube stock and not cast iron...is that correct? If they are tube stock like my 85, then you could take a torch and heat the tube and punch it in where the plug is too close. Not pretty, but it would work.