I know there are a lot of threads that cover this topic on how to install the system and how to set it up, but I am wondering, for those who have it, how do you like it?

Do you feel it made the car a little more reliable? Obviously tune ups will be a breeze now, but do you feel more comfortable driving the car?

I would like to take my 94' on long trips, and recent opti troubles in the past have sort of made me second guess everything. I even considered letting the car go and moving on to a C5/6. I just really love this car, and I feel the LT1 is an excellent motor, and extremely stout. I get nothing but compliments on it, it's part of the family now, and most importantly it was my first Corvette. It is easy to work on, and every time I have had it apart (oil pan gasket replacement/intake manifold leak) I can't help but notice how clean and fresh the engine is on the inside. I feel like the engine itself will last forever, it doesn't smoke, leak, or burn any oil between changes.

The LTCC system still relies on the optical trigger within the optispark, that is fine, I have accepted that. But, by removing the high voltage aspect of the optispark distributor, does it really make it more reliable? I have a good working vented optispark in my 94' right now from Petris Enterprises, but I can't help but wonder if taking the "spark" out of the optispark and using a coil per cylinder system would be more reliable? It makes sense that if you remove the high voltage from the unit it should, in theory, prolong the life of the optical sensor by a long shot.

I know it is a little on the expensive side but I have done plenty of research on how to install it and it seems very straight forward, I have no problem making my own coil brackets if need be and cutting custom spark plug wires.

Anyone have any input? Am I sort of chasing my own tail here? Should I leave well enough alone with my new Petris unit? Bogus, if you are out there please chime in!


Thanks guys,

Patrick

 

Ok. you knew I would reply, so I'll be the first.

Dont waste your money.

The optispark works fine provided you understand its strengths and weaknesses.

Lets start with its weaknesses:

1. Non-vented 92-94 units...solution is simple, add a vent

2. substandard china-junk quality aftermarket replacements.....solution: Only use ac delco new old stock (if you can find it) for 92-94, or delphi gen 2 for 95-96 models. Or convert to gen 2 if you are in there anyways doing a cam change or something.

*Note I dont even trust the $500 MSD optispark. It does NOT have a mitsubishi sensor. Some people have gotten ones that work ok, others have been stranded.

3. Optispark is a sensitive electrical item and it is mounted in a high heat location. lt1's run hot. Heat is the enemy of electronics and the moisture seals. I changed my fan setpoints, added the 160 t-stat and my car doesnt ever go over 174f.

Heres my experience.....
My stock one went junk at 26k on my 93. It had rust inside and the seals were shrunk/ cracked. Someone probably was washing the engine.

I paid about $650 for a genuine new old stock ac delco optispark base for my 93 (back in 01 when you could still get the real deal parts)...And I added a cap from a gen 2. I used one of the weep holes in the base as a vacuum line and epoxied the other 2 weep holes shut. I then used the fitting on the gen 2 cap as the air inlet.

I was sure to use a gen 2 optispark vacuum line harness with the appropriate check valve and flow reducer.

Worked great, in fact I sold that part used for $150 to a forum member who is using it to this day and it all works great.

I updated my timing cover during a recent cam change to the gen 2 style parts and put on a delphi gen 2 optispark.

Everything runs good. Nothing ever misses.


Now heres the strengths:


#1 Excellent control of timing advance/ retard. Very accurate crank position sensor for these events.

#2 Can hook a spark amplifier (ex. MSD-6) to make the spark hotter to light under high compression race motors or boost

#3 Ive heard of people spinning these past 7000rpm and still holding together. I think 7500 rpm or so was what one guy (camaro?) was spinning his up to.


Do I wish the LT1 was coil pack/ plug ignition. Sure I do.

But the optispark works fine as long as you know your way around its weaknesses.

flamesuit on.

 

Dizwiz, I knew you'd find this thread and I appreciate your input. We both know the OEM NOS stock of 92-94 spline drive optis are near extinct if not already depleted. I purchased the Petris as it seems to be the best you can get for a 92-94 aside from converting the timing cover to accept the pin drive opti (which you have done). This Petris unit uses a 95/96 Cap, and he utilizes the bottom 3 holes of the 92-94 opti base as the other vent. He also utilizes a GM vent harness with all the correct check valves.






So I am good in that regard. My original non-vented opti went to 106k miles. I still have it, everything is good with it except for the bearing which is extremely rusted. I swapped it out during a water pump change for a chandler unit and found out the hard way that ebay optis are junk. I went with a Delphi next unit which only lasted a year. I never took it apart to verify it had a mitsubishi sensor but I did send it back and got a refund under warranty.

I know the opti is a fairly reliable unit, but, I haven't had much luck with it lately. I've done an *** load of trouble shooting, and each time it is the opti. This last time I even got code 16.

What I would like to do is prolong the life of the optical sensor as much as possible. If you seem to think that sticking with an Opti is the best route to go, then by all means, I'll re-think my situation. However, digging through numerous optispark, LTCC, Delteq threads from the past decade, its easy to see which side of the aisle you stand on . Nothing wrong with that, just want opinions from people who have the LTCC and what they have to say about it.

 

Anybody else?

 

I'll chime in here and say I'm interested in whoever has used the LTCC as well since I am pondering the same things as the OP.

 

Ordered my LTCC box today

 

A caveat about that vent. I did just that on my Gen 1 opti...

Drilled out the three little holes... added the little plastic thingys... did all the epoxy... drilled out and heat welded in the vent for the cap...

Looked GREAT!

When I removed it 110k miles later, all three of the holes were no longer connected, the line had been cut by the serp belt somehow, and the vent to the opti itself has broken off due to oil contamination.

In short, nothing that is added to the cap is all that good and won't hold up.

I then bought a Dyna-Spark, but he is having issues with sensors failing... I now have a 96 long block in there, so I have Gen II opti, cleaned it... removed the cap and rotor, tossed on the aluminum cover from the Dyna-Spark and pickled the bastard with Copper RTV... That's been 2 years and nearly 20k miles ago. And it is vented...

 

Well that's just great, looks like I have a lot to look forward to

A C5 is starting to look better and better....Even with its ginormous Jennifer Lopez a$$

 

Made my coil mount brackets yesterday.













I ordered these brackets off ebay:





These brackets will mount on top of the brackets I made. They will house the coils. Plan on painting the brackets with black Rustoleum.


I bought 8 LS6 Coils with only 5,000 original miles on them from a forum member in the C5 Section with a 2001 Z06. Got them at a very good price. Once I get everything mocked up I will go ahead and cut my plug wires to length, and I still need to source two LS1 coil harnesses for each bank.

After that it is just mounting the LTCC box in the front of the engine bay near one of the headlight bucket recess areas, and its all plug and play from there.

 

That is a pretty piece of Aluminum, but the coils that will go on it aren't. Which begs the question: why don't people mount coil-near-plug coils on the frame where you can't see them, rather than on top of the valve cover? That is what I would do.

 

Yes, mounting the coils on the frame would definitely be cleaner. But, for me, that isn' the route I wanted to take. It would make running and hiding the wires a little harder, it would place the coils even closer to a moisture source, and it would look like Medusa under the hood with wires strewn everywhere.

My plan is to have it look as clean and uniform as possible. All the wiring will be hidden under the stock fuel rail covers. All you will see is maybe an inch or two of wire coming out of the fuel rail covers to power the coils, and then the plug wires running from each coil straight down to each cylinder.

If I ever need to remove the coils, for whatever reason (Maintenance, testing, etc...) It is just two easily accessible bolts and the entire coil assembly will come right out and on to the work bench.

When it is finished, it should have a nice clean race car/industrial look to it. Not that looks matter too much to me, as I never go to car shows or anything. Just like it nice and tidy. I think the coils will look pretty good when they are all cleaned up and sitting on each bracket uniformly with hardly any wires showing.

 

I've been worried about the long road trips myself. Really want to take my 93 to Florida this spring or summer. If I decide to buy this, I'll be asking you for help

I replaced my opti in July. I put the opti saccitycorvette sells. Also had that one in my other C4 and it worked fine.

 

Just let me know, Brandon. Maybe we could meet up at the 12 hours of Sebring in March.

 

I'll be there!

 

I'll ket you know

 

Then we'll have to meet up!

 

I dig those coil mounts. What bolts did you use to pull that off? I've got a new opti on order and strongly considering doing the LTCC conversion at the same time.

 

fer sure!!!

 

Thanks. I used stainless allen head bolts from Ace Hardware. The passenger side bolts were all M6X1.00 pitch, and I got them 1/4" longer than the stock bolts. Driver side was similar except one of the bolts was a 1/4x20 thread and about 4" long. I used 1/4" chrome spacers (also from Ace) to elevate the plate off the valve cover. The aluminum is just 2" wide and available at Ace or Home Depot. I cut it to length with a die grinder and beveled the edges. Make sure to get washers the same diameter as the stock bolt head so it seals against the rubber gaskets on the composite valve covers.

 

Still waiting on LTCC box, and need to choose which spark plug wires I want to use. Torn between Taylor Spiro Pro or Magnecor's. Sort of leaning toward Magnecor as the Taylor's are sort of hard to snap on and off.


Anyways, coils are mounted....





And just for $hits, I was at the Daytona Rolex 24 hours and took a few pics of the C7R Race Engine. Here is how they mount their coils. Neat idea, but horrible plug wire access for a street driven car.