383 stroker clearance
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
383 stroker clearance
I'm trying to see if anyone on here has any pictures of exactly where I need to check clearances when building a 383 stroker. I hear bottoms of cylinder walls and pan rails... I'm going to use a small base circle cam I'm thinking... So I shouldn't have any problems there.. It's the eagle kit and the rods look like they are notched where the bolts go in also..
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,624
Likes: 431
From: Dale City VA
Here you go.
Cam to Rod. Look in the mirror you can see the shoulder of the rod clearly hitting the cam lobe. Numbers 1, 2, 5 and 6 are the most common that interfere with the cam.
Block cut for rod clearance. When you do this use old main brgs in the block and old rod brgs in the rod if possible. Install the crank in the block using front and rear main brgs. Take one rod and 1 piston (no rings) and mock assemble 1 cyl at a time. Rotate it around and check the clearance at the bottom of the bore and at the pan rail. Grind a little until it clears. Take the rod and move to the next cyl repeat until all 8 cyls are done. Take the crank, rod and piston back out of the block and clean everything to get any metal off them.
Notice pan rail and bottom of the cyl are both cut for clearance.... be careful on the bottom of the cyl between the cyl and pan rail. There is a water jacket behind that bulkhead. Only grind enough to get .030-.050 clearance between it and rod bolt. There is a factory notch cast in the block in this area to guide you and you just grind a little until the rod clears.
Rod to Block assembled.... You can see the pan rail notches and how number 3 rod bolt would hit pan rail if not notched.
Hope that helps.
Will
Cam to Rod. Look in the mirror you can see the shoulder of the rod clearly hitting the cam lobe. Numbers 1, 2, 5 and 6 are the most common that interfere with the cam.
Block cut for rod clearance. When you do this use old main brgs in the block and old rod brgs in the rod if possible. Install the crank in the block using front and rear main brgs. Take one rod and 1 piston (no rings) and mock assemble 1 cyl at a time. Rotate it around and check the clearance at the bottom of the bore and at the pan rail. Grind a little until it clears. Take the rod and move to the next cyl repeat until all 8 cyls are done. Take the crank, rod and piston back out of the block and clean everything to get any metal off them.
Notice pan rail and bottom of the cyl are both cut for clearance.... be careful on the bottom of the cyl between the cyl and pan rail. There is a water jacket behind that bulkhead. Only grind enough to get .030-.050 clearance between it and rod bolt. There is a factory notch cast in the block in this area to guide you and you just grind a little until the rod clears.
Rod to Block assembled.... You can see the pan rail notches and how number 3 rod bolt would hit pan rail if not notched.
Hope that helps.
Will
Last edited by rklessdriver; Mar 4, 2015 at 10:23 AM.
