Picked up a used Superram intake. Missing the instructions and the hardware. Does anyone have a electronic copy the can send me ? Thanks in advance!

 

This might help, suggestions off the Forum over the years.....

SUPER RAM INSTALL SUGGESTIONS:
1. Chase all threads before anything else;
2. Bench fit it (or in your case, dry fit it on the installed base) so as to ID any problem areas. At that time, you'll see the difficulty lining everything up and physically getting to the two center bolts from the runners to the plenum. At this time, check the runner to plenum gaskets and trim as req'd. These new gaskets now have siamesed openings and needed considerable trimming on my unit last month on my R&R;
3. I would recommend studding the two center runner bolt holes up into the plenum, and slightly enlarging the corresponding plenum holes when you drill out the threads. This will give you a little extra play when you drop the plenum on the runners. Use locktite on the locknuts inside the plenum;
4. When you start the actual install, use "The Right Stuff" as a sealant. Be careful not to let it ooze into the air flow areas. Start the runner bolts, leaving the runners loose for play, then drop the plenum and get the runner bolts started up into the plenum.
5. Once all bolts are started, work your way around taking things up slowly to reduce any binding.......do this till things are all snug, then install the locknuts inside the plenum if you go that route.
6. Before you begin the install, carefully examine the runners. One of them has an angled crossover opening and one of them has a vertical crossover opening. Those will help you determine which side is which....it is very easy to install them wrong if you don't do this! –Caboboy

most guys will notch each lower perimeter screw so that you can use a small screw driver to draw them up from the top :cheers----at best its a tough job but you should only have to do it once. –BTTB
I installed the super ram on my 90 race car. It was a job and half to install so it worked. Had to do install twice to chase leaks.
1) Check machining for EGR slots. On mine runner slot went past manifold gasket causing leak.
2) Use gasket sealer on everything.
3) Dry assemble first to find holes that dont line up.
4) Slot plenum mounting screws so they can be inserted by screw driver from top.
5) You have to grind bolt heads or grind runners on inner runner bolts.
6) Make sure runners clear injectors and connectors.
7) If you can, remove rocker arms to access bottom runner lower bolts.
8) If not, get long hex wrenches with universal ends.
9) Memory? I bought a Sears 1/4" offset ratcheting wrench to access some of the bolts.
10) I bought a bunch of 1" long 1/4-20 set screws threaded into plenum to align with runners. I then removed set screws on by one as I threaded in bolts.
11) Before installing base check alignment of rear machined surface with block mating surface. Make sure they align or replace manifold.
12) Clean Clean Clean block front and rear manifold valley surfaces
13) I used a spring punch to dimple both surfaces to give silicon sealant more bite to block.
14) Have a good supply of aspirin, valium or beer. Your choice!! You'll need it. –Vetracr


You know, it was not a piece of cake but it was not terrible either. Tim and the others gotcha covered up there, for sure a buy a tap to chase the threaded holes.

I drilled the plenum box tapped holes out in the center where it was hard to reach and tapped the runner plate, then I drilled cross holes in the button head SS bolts and ran them top/down into the plenum plate, and then put a cotter pin into each bolt in case they worked free to assure me that they would not get into the engine.,,,,

but I also put the right stuff on every plenum box bolt hole to prevent air from leaking past the bolt holes as well as around each of the openings in the plenum/box entry area.-LD85

On my '85, I needed to get the throttle bracket off an F-Body that was slightly different than my stock bracket. The stock one made the cables kink too much over the new plenum. –MrNUKE
The Accel part number 74200, that’s what I'm using for my 86 auto.
I would thing it would be the same for a 90 but not sure.
Good Luck

Summit has it for $21.69 ACC-74200 (throttle bracket) –vetster86

also, I installed the runners loose to the base. then I got all the bolts into the plenum, then I tightened down the runners, then I tightened down the plenum. this helps get things lined up. some people tighten the runners all the way down and they cant get all the bolts to the plenum lined up.

Another thing I did was run my injector wires inside the runners.
I was pulling the valve covers off a lot and this got the wire loom out of my way. I also wrapped the wires in some heat shield. if you don’t pull your valve covers often, lol, then it may be best to run them outside the runners. –bill mcdonald

SuperRam Gasket kit:
http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...egory_Code=C46

 

I have some here

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vader86/

 

I should have known that Vader86 would have them.

My original papers were given to my son when he got my 85.

Well done AGAIN Vader86!!

 

Thanks to all, much appreciated. Looks like the bracket is no longer available from summit. My car is a manual transmission, can I get by with the stock bracket? Is it worth installing this manifold on a stock motor, I picked up a 4 bolt 880 block as a long term project. I was thinking of installing this now along with a 180 thermostat and the removal of the 9th injector with a new memcal, Opinions?
Thanks!

 

Installing the SR will improve the performance, but don't expect huge gains. Remember an engine is just a big pump....the SR will get more air to the engine.

You will not need to change the chip in the computer. The stock chip will be able to handle this change.

 

You can get by with the stock bracket, you will need to see how it goes for you.

You can run only an SR without a chip change, but I was not a fan of it when I tried it.