There's plenty of sealing surface there; back in the bad old days before screw on filters, the old style canister filters used a single square cut "O" ring that wasn't much wider that the thickness of the canister wall, think maybe an 1/8th of an inch;

personally, and I've used JB Weld myself, but since you'll be working upside down, I'd try a thicker metal reinforced "putty" style epoxy.

 

JB Weld has metal particles in it. I use masking tape as a "mold" to hold it in place while it cures.

When my harmonic balancer ring walked into my timing chain cover and ground a hole in it I used JB Weld to seal the hole. It lasted 10 years until I finally replaced the cover:

 

can't argue with success

 

JB weld or install an LT1 oil filter adapter and filter.

 

The reason Im hesitant to use jb weld (I used it before on a few things) is just the oil around there would it ever be able to get clean enough.One person said drill it tap and put in a screw and grind it down.I thought if Im going to drill it that should clean it enough,but Im not real comfortable taking the chance that driling it might make another piece fallout or crack or something.

I think ill look at that oil adapter and filter and see how I feel about trying that.

At least its not dripping now and maybe there is something else causing the smoke off the exhaust under the car. Its definitely oil and see a puff come through the center vent area once in a while too.

The valve covers were loose and were tightened just a little,probably should check them.

 

The "grease" and a quality filter I'm quite confident will take care of your situation.

This would be the only alternative (which has been mentioned) IF the grease failed:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...60&postcount=1

 

am I missing something here? is this the area that you're trying to repair?



can't believe some of the stuff I'm reading -

 

Hi

Simple fix buy an oil cooler, you can see in the picture the gasket will seal as it goes right to the outside.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-CORVETTE-C4-TPI-OEM-OIL-COOLER-USED-/400699908584?hash=item5d4b9361e8

 

if it's not dripping, and I'm assuming you're referring to the filter issue -- how did you repair the area in question? exactly what did you do?

looking at your original pic, you definitely have some additional leaking issues. could be any or all of the following - valve covers, intake gaskets (front and/or rear china wall, oil pressure sensors (behind the distributor). might even have some oil pan issues. since you seem to have the filter issue solved, next, tackle the VC's. invest in some new quality gaskets - baby steps, baby steps, baby steps, AND follow the K.I.S.S. approach....

to reiterate post #40,



drill, tap, grind, weld, braze, epoxy, oil coolers, remote filters, more gaskets, bigger gaskets, etc, etc, etc...

 

have you looked at the pics of this oil cooler? it looks to be a POS. if that thing didn't leak, it would damn near surprise me! take a good look at the upper and lower sealing surfaces. let's assume it was a quality used part -- now lets install it, and hopefully we won't have any issues bolting to the filter location. first of all, you need a pipe to hose nipple that screws into the LH lower block. hopefully we can get the old pipe plug out without causing any other damage. after all, that things been screwed into the cooling system water jacket for some 25 years. next we need a short (outlet) hose to connect the oil cooler, and throw in a couple screw clamps. next we need the inlet hose, and the pre-formed metal tube that runs along the LH side of the oil pan, along the bottom of the timing chain cover, and works it's way up to the upper right side of the engine. BTW, we need all the additional clamps and hardware that secures the metal tube to the oil pan. at the upper side of the engine, now we need a rubber "tee" that ties this oil cooler tubing into the heater hose, along with a bunch of additional hose clamps. hopefully, we won't have any installation problems and additional leaking issues. seems like you'll need a bunch of additional pieces-parts to install this oil cooler! of course, one could do a "bubba" installation - run a single piece of heater hose from the cooler to the heater hose and buy a bunch of hardware store pipe fittings, and secure everything with a bunch of tie-wraps!



while an oil cooler is a great idea from a performance standpoint, it's overly complicated from a repair standpoint. "simple fix" - - no flames, but IF SOMEONE ASKS YOU WHAT TIME IT IS, DON'T TELL THEM HOW TO BUILD A CLOCK (by using one part)!

sorry, just ranting...

 

I agree, 99.8999% of the oil in that first pic came from somewhere else.

 

I believe the link worked in the earlier post but "very few" seem to get the 'jist of it's being a potential/better or maybe best solution.

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...Bpostcount%3D1

 

Thats what I said....
That will eliminate .0002% of that engines oil leaks.

 

And I'm sure that a through cleaning with brake cleaner will eliminate any oil film....and if that isn't enough...do what commercial welders do, apply some heat, it doesn't have to be a lot, industrial heat gun, etc. enough to drive any oil from the pores of the metal.

In all honestly, this little divot in the sealing surface isn't that big of deal...but I would NOT tap and drill, especially working upside down with a hand drill and hand grinder, one slip up and ... well that's how little problems become big projects .

 

-

 

There is just so many conflicting suggestions. Im sure this is the main area thats causing leaking issues,Im not lkosing a lot of oil but it smokes off the exhaust and slightly into the car.

My head explodes trying to determine what advice is the best still.

Now todayt someone I talked with says he can weld it and finish it, uses some kind of trade secret welding rod to keep from causing damage to cast iron and hes been doing it for 20 years. Hes certain he can do it. But the thought of my car catching on fire or more damage has me nervous.

 

"trade secret", I would stay away from that person.
How much will he charge for this secret repair?

Folks above have good fixes for certain situations.

Nothing beats going back to basics and find out how many places the engine is leaking oil. Must clean all areas that are oily, not a easy task. Then watch carefully which areas get oily first, etc.

 

one more frickin' time - quit making this more complicated than it is! dress down the sharp edges, and slap on a new filter. do not let anyone in there with a torch - period!!!

 

What Joe said...

The gasket seal is all the way out to the rust line. You might have a raised edge that could be dressed down. But the way I see it...A new filter is not going to leak. Find the real oil leak and forget about that filter leaking.

 

Yes. Clean up as much oil as you can. Slap on a new filter. Don't over tighten thinking it will keep it from leaking. That WILL cause it to leak. Fill it with fresh oil and add some dye. If the filter is leaking, a uv light will confirm. You'll also be able to track down any other leaks you may have. Valve covers? And stop worrying already. This looks worse than it is.