Look for a remote oil cooler adapter like this (though I probably wouldn't get this one since it is banged up) -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-CORVETTE-C4-TPI-OEM-OIL-COOLER-USED-/400699908584?hash=item5d4b9361e8&vxp=mtr
It seems to have a wide seal where it goes against the block plus you can put a small amount of "The Right Stuff" gasket material around the seal to help keep it from leaking. You can plug the oil cooler holes or install a cooler if you like.

 

you could always just go to the auto store and get a piece of gasket material and make your own. gasket material comes it different thicknesses and only cost a few bucks

 

Heres a question does anyone know the exact diameter of this mating surface that shows the damage?

WVZR1?

 

- although possible, it would be extremely difficult on the car. beside that, there's special procedures in welding cast iron. doubt it can be done with the engine in the car. then there's the whole machining/finishing issue. no flames, but welding is just a bad idea.

- while it appears the inner edge of the gasket surface is damaged, there is still plenty of sealing surface. I would take a dremmel tool, and dress down only the sharp edges of the break, taking off only a minimum of material. a new filter, tighten to spec, and I'd bet you won't have an issue. having no sharp edges is the key, since the turning action of the filter installation would cut into the new rubber seal.

 

You want to start with the sealing dimensions of the PF25 oil filter, that filter has a different dimension than the now accepted replacements of all manufacturers. I'll put my hands on the spec and post back. Your situation isn't all that unique, it is unusual that some have as significant issue as you. A Wix or NAPA premium might have the wider dimension, maybe Baldwin or other fleet brands.

What is the brand and part number of your most recent filter that created the issue that you now notice?

You're SPECIAL as you've already mentioned. Cars seem to find you!!!

*** Measure yours and see how close to an OD of 3.38 and an ID of 3.04 yours is. A short-cut I guess would be confirm one diameter and check width .35 or closer to would be the desired. Check the diameter that you're most concerned with.

 

Is it even leaking due to that chip? That engine definitely has oil coming from other areas. Looks like its pretty wet on the block above the oil filter.

 

I'd be inclined to agree that I'd look more closely for other issues. 30 years of accumulated from maybe less than spectacular maintenance could certainly maybe point a person in the wrong direction BUT I believe Toni has posted regarding this before. It just seems like something I've seen posted previously.

A person could buy a premium square cut sealing ring and swap every few oil changes.

 

I still would give this a try doulble seal

 

Stacking doesn't "fix" things - premium material and different thickness spec yes. Stacking is what usually creates the issue - the old seal stays with the block and the new is cranked on. Leaks every time. Most every time I maybe should say.

Actually I believe if Toni only shops paying attention to the thread dimensions, sealing diameters and the cross-references to the PF-25 BUT then comparing the thickness of the sealing ring and maybe the material she'll no longer have "filter to block" sealing issues.

This happens to me almost every-time I try to do filter specifications:

http://autoparts-standard.org/index/...0E302-2003.pdf

 

just use the new oil filter as a template. or use the old one and a hammer to make an impression on the gasket material. but whatever you do, don't use 2 gaskets or o-rings it will leak.

 

Agent 86 is right, JB weld will take care of that. I have used it to seal a timing cover that had a hold in it, lasted for years.

 

I did not offer stacking as a solution I said to get one that fits on the outside of the seal that would fit in the channel makeing a second seal further from the damage

 

This is what I used

WIX - Oil Filter
Part Number: 51069

Any recommendations for a more likely candidate?

 

You would need to compare them side-by-side to see if there were maybe something that looked like a "better fit". You're the only one that could do that. WIX - might be difficult to do better, I have/had a WIX here that was part of an export order and the seal was loose and fallen out of the filter ring. Rather than just re-glue it I replacesd the filter and kept that one for myself. I've tried all day to find it and can't for some dimensions.

I meant to mention earlier and didn't BUT I believe the first thing I'd do is select a filter by visibly inspecting/measuring AND when I installed it I'd use some HIGH PERFORMANCE marine grade synthetic "grease" or the synthetic grease that GM uses in the drive-line slip-yokes to reduce clunk. Either of those will not be effected by the engine oil or the heat generated by the engine/oil. The GM is wicked expensive but real good, a finger swipe of it would do maybe a dozen oil changes.

Most any drive-line shop would have a similar product. The newest GM part# is 19257121 I believe, it would be blue in color unless they've changed the source along with the part #. GM# 12345879 is the original # and it could maybe be an easier find on someone's work bench.

That's what I'd do first - the JBW is a bit of a stretch even if it were real clean. If it doesn't hold it can also get swallowed up by one would hope the filter.

 

But, the seal on the oil filter already does that. It fits in that channel outside that ridge. And it doesn't have to be that tight to get a good seal. Try this. Clean that thing up. Get all that old oil off. Put a new filter on and see if it leaks. If it does, I'd take the car to a welding shop to see if they can't braze that crack. Not hard to braze cast iron. And it would be permanent. Smoke from the exhaust pipes would alert me to a leak somewhere higher up. Perhaps the valve cover gasket.

 

99% sure that is from someone not being able to get the filter off, OR not doing it correctly. That looks like a screw driver was pushed in to tun and was in the wrong spot. No other way for it to happen without a direct blow from something.

 

Good point! When I blew the photo up, it looks like the Inclusion is about 80% across the shiny surface were the Flat rubber seal makes it's contact. I would make sure there are no "Sharp" edge's, clean the entire area up, throw a filter on there and give it a try. If it leaks then the only Options would be to find a replacement filter with a larger Seal Diameter, or fill the hole.

 

That's what I would do.

 

I believe it would be a "last resort".

The use of the L98 cooler would be a "seal once and done" probably with the correct sealing ring. I don't think either are required, the right filter and the grease I believe should do.

 

I'm not seeing 80% - ??? I do, however, see about 20%. could be, we're not looking at the same thing - ???

I totally agree with you on the "make sure there are no sharp edges" thing, and slapping on a new filter. if I'm looking at this right, I'd bet it won't leak. from what I see, this is not a complicated repair. stacking seals is not a viable solution, and welding and brazing with the engine in the car, or out of the car, is plain dumb. JB-weld might work, but I'd only use it as a last resort. yeah, you could find filters with a larger diameter gasket, and that would help, but really, what are you going to gain - maybe .010 or .020 diameter on the sealing surface - ??? sometimes these repair threads get overly complicated, while others, turn out some real bubba repairs and "monkey phucking a football" solutions. crazy2: (BTW, FLAME SUIT'S ON!)

to the OP, dress down and clean up the sharp edges, install a new filter, and report back!