C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Warm hard start.

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Old May 3, 2015 | 07:22 AM
  #1  
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Default Warm hard start.

Hey guys having a hard start issue, when the car is dead cold it will fire on the first hit. When I turn the car off (been driving its completely warmed up) and walk away for 5 or 10 minutes it will fire right up on the first try............let it set for 20 minutes to 5 hours I have to crank it a couple of times and push the gas pedal almost to the floor and then it will sputter and then start. No fuel in the vac. lines and I did a fuel pressure test and it does hold when cold...warm or hot.

The car is all original, has set for a long time. However I have no codes and the car runs perfect in all other areas.


Thanks !!!!
Brian
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Old May 3, 2015 | 02:55 PM
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From: Caldwell
Default Hard start

When I had the same issue, a new coil was the solution
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Old May 3, 2015 | 03:05 PM
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Not the coil. Here is the key:
Originally Posted by Brian Felts
When I turn the car off (been driving its completely warmed up) and walk away for 5 or 10 minutes it will fire right up on the first try............let it set for 20 minutes to 5 hours I have to crank it a couple of times and push the gas pedal almost to the floor and then it will sputter and then start.
Leaking injector(s). When it sits for a while, fuel leaks into the intake, "Flooding" it. The WOT helps clear the flooded situation (ECM has programming for "clear flood mode" whne WOT and cranking) and expedites starting the car. You need new injectors.

Most common way to test this is to check for fuel pressure drop as you have done, however, very little fuel leakage is necessary to flood it and that small leakage may not show.

Another way to test would be to run it 'til hot, then shut it off, and drain the fuel rails w/your fuel pressure tester immediately after shut down. Wait the 20 min + and then prime the fuel systems, and see if it fires right up.
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Old May 3, 2015 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
Not the coil. Here is the key:
Leaking injector(s). When it sits for a while, fuel leaks into the intake, "Flooding" it. The WOT helps clear the flooded situation (ECM has programming for "clear flood mode" whne WOT and cranking) and expedites starting the car. You need new injectors.

Most common way to test this is to check for fuel pressure drop as you have done, however, very little fuel leakage is necessary to flood it and that small leakage may not show.

Another way to test would be to run it 'til hot, then shut it off, and drain the fuel rails w/your fuel pressure tester immediately after shut down. Wait the 20 min + and then prime the fuel systems, and see if it fires right up.
I agree!
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Old May 3, 2015 | 08:13 PM
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this can also be a symptom of the coolant temp sensor not sending to the ecm,
if it isnt sending a temp signal the ecm thinks the engine is still cold and enrichens the fuel mixture, making it hard to start a warmed up engine.
do you know how to check it ?
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Old May 3, 2015 | 08:56 PM
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With a hot engine, the ignition control module may not function:

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/2-s...ition-module#b
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Old May 5, 2015 | 05:04 AM
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Well I did the trick for letting the pressure of of the fuel rain and its still hard to start. There is a puff of smoke that comes out of the pipes like there is too much fuel in the chambers.

I am between the coil not firing leaving unburnt fuel in the chamber or somehow its still flooding as the fuel pump primes? The sticky part is all other times it runs Perfect



Thanks
Brian
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Old May 6, 2015 | 05:05 AM
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Thanks for the tips............This is what I came up with. I let it run and let the fuel pressure off the rail when I turned it off and it was still just as hard to start so this is what I came up with.

Fuel Pressure readings
37lb @ Idle with the vac. line on
46lb @ Idle with Vac. line off

Engine completely shut off it bleed down

40lb at shut down
37lb 5 minutes after shut down
22lb 10 minutes after
and under 20 Lb at being off for 30 minutes.

Give me your opinion, I know when it does this there is some raw fuel in the exhaust.


Brian
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Old May 6, 2015 | 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian Felts
Thanks for the tips............This is what I came up with. I let it run and let the fuel pressure off the rail when I turned it off and it was still just as hard to start so this is what I came up with.

Fuel Pressure readings
37lb @ Idle with the vac. line on
46lb @ Idle with Vac. line off

Engine completely shut off it bleed down

40lb at shut down
37lb 5 minutes after shut down
22lb 10 minutes after
and under 20 Lb at being off for 30 minutes.

Give me your opinion, I know when it does this there is some raw fuel in the exhaust.


Brian
Fpr or cracked rubber line in the tank could be injectors but would check the cheaper stuff first

Last edited by antfarmer2; May 6, 2015 at 08:06 AM.
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Old May 6, 2015 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian Felts
Thanks for the tips............This is what I came up with. I let it run and let the fuel pressure off the rail when I turned it off and it was still just as hard to start so this is what I came up with.

Fuel Pressure readings
37lb @ Idle with the vac. line on
46lb @ Idle with Vac. line off

Engine completely shut off it bleed down

40lb at shut down
37lb 5 minutes after shut down
22lb 10 minutes after
and under 20 Lb at being off for 30 minutes.

Give me your opinion, I know when it does this there is some raw fuel in the exhaust.


Brian
After you turn the engine off pull the throttle body duct off the throttle body and open the throttle body to WOT and listen for any hissing or dripping. On my car I could actually hear the injectors leaking which helped me confirm my theory of bad injectors.

Your description to me sounds like leaking injectors but it is nice to confirm that before you start replacing parts.
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Old May 6, 2015 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by bjankuski
After you turn the engine off pull the throttle body duct off the throttle body and open the throttle body to WOT and listen for any hissing or dripping. On my car I could actually hear the injectors leaking which helped me confirm my theory of bad injectors.

Your description to me sounds like leaking injectors but it is nice to confirm that before you start replacing parts.
I like that
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Old May 6, 2015 | 09:53 AM
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mine had identical symptoms. was the injectors.
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Old May 6, 2015 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by bjankuski
After you turn the engine off pull the throttle body duct off the throttle body and open the throttle body to WOT and listen for any hissing or dripping. On my car I could actually hear the injectors leaking which helped me confirm my theory of bad injectors.

Your description to me sounds like leaking injectors but it is nice to confirm that before you start replacing parts.
Odd that draining fuel lines didn't eliminate the symptom, but fuel is leaking somewhere. You can also isolate the injectors by charging the system, the crimping off the fuel delivery and return lines where they are rubber/flexible. Doing that eliminates the pump/hose, and the FPR. If you're still losing pressure, only one thing it can be; injectors.
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