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With a flat tappet cam the lifters have to rotate. before the timing cover goes back on or timing chain on put a speed wrench on a cam ger bolt and crank away. All lifters need to be rotating. If the cam depth is wrong they wont spin and you lose a lobe, possible comp gets this wrong often. Been there done that. the springs seem a bit stiff for flat tappet but have not played with those for a couple of decades so my info quite dated.
I know the lifters were rotating when I had the weaker Springs on it so I don't think that was an issue.i can clearly see a circle on the bottom of all the lifters and I also checked that a while ago when I had it all apart before I changed Springs.. I'm going to pull the valve Springs and double check those but I know they are binding before 1.080 where they should be.
Getting ready to have comp grind me a hydraulic roller but the thing is they don't have the exact lobes that Howards has.. They recommended a 12-444-8 which is a 580 lift exhaust 562 intake.. I'm trying to avoid pulling the engine and heads to check clearance.. Do you think I'd be safe with that cam?
........... Check your coil bind with the retainer on the springs ... the step on the retainer for the inner springs will typically occupy a tenth of an inch of spring height .........
I'm getting different Springs... I was meaning piston to valve clearance.. It's a 385 stroker with the eagle rotating assembly. Speed pro hyper pistons
Another question... Is it ok to use used hydraulic roller lifters? I know you can't with flat tappet cams.. I see someone selling a used set of comp 853-16 lifters and they say they only have 200 miles on them. For a couple hundred bucks...
Ok getting ready to install the new cam. 2 questions.. Would I be ok to use a nylon cam button or do I need to use a roller button? And do I need a Torrington bearing or wear plate behind the cam gear? I have heard yes and no and I just want everything to work here..