Hmmmmmm maybe new cap can't see your pic

 

You can't? It's freaking huge lol

 

More concerned about that crap on it need a good flushing pull your knock sensors out to do it right just pinch the connector with your fingers to get it off I would put new ones in they have the proper dope on them and use the right tourqe

 

That what she said

 

It started this morning so must be I fixed it correctly.

I need to burp the system and to check into the fuel pressure being a little lower than I expected.
The passenger side headlight comes up but gets stuck halfway down so I need to fix that too.

 

The engine runs pretty strong and it seems pretty tight. It has no strange noises or anything which is good and the tranny shifts fine.

 

 

Update. The car starts every single time, sometimes a small pump of the throttle helps. Not sure why.

Ok, I think I found the issue to the bubbling out of the overflow tank. There is a leak behind the passenger side front tire. The coolant tank isn't leaking but when I turned the heater on the windshield fogged up and the smell of antifreeze filled the cabin. The passenger floor is dry (thankfully) but I am convinced it is the heater core. As I live in Florida and planning for this car to be a street car but track capable I am thinking of just bypassing the heater core.

Am I correct in my assessment that a bad heater core will cause the overflow to, um, overflow? Lol

There are four other things.

1. The fuel level was working when I put the pump in and now....it reads reserve and zero bars. Not sure what could have changed it and I put MORE gas in it. Hah

2. Oil temperature gauge reads zero. It also doesn't register when I hit to see it in the digital readout.

3. Same for the coolant temperature gauge.

4. When the car first starts up the oil pressure reads at the top of the guage and then some. After the engine warms up the guage seems to work just fine.

5. The cable from the ASR box that connects under the computer, above the batter, was unhooked. No matter the setting the car either idles super high or dies.

So there are the issues. To be honest, I'm not really that worried about all the guages working because I am leaning towards an LS swap this fall/winter.

This engine is super tight, doesn't blow any smoke, and I wouldn't be afraid to drive the car with this engine.

So, I am debating on either selling the engine to help pay for the LS swap or doing a stock-ish rebuild and putting it in my 1984 Z51 4+3. How much do good running LT1s sell for?

 

Smell to check your heater core easy to bypass. Check your fuses and connections on your senders

 

I can smell coolant from the gog coming out of the windshield vent. Where are these sender's? Sorry for asking so many questions. Just trying to educate myself before I go tearing crap apart. I figured the heater core bypass was pretty simple fix.

The fans work just fine too. Forgot that part.

Thanks for your help.

 

I believe the oil temp is by the oil filter oil pressure is on the left side of the engine under the back of the manifold the digital water temp is on top of the water pump and the analog is on the pass side middle of the engine

 

Not even sure I want to fix that crap. Planning an LS swap this winter.

 

Look at your fuses

 

Heater core bypassed and engine coming up to temp. The digital reading are now working. Not sure what happened. Haha the analog volts and oil pressure work and for the digital all of them work. I will post if I still get any bubbling over.

 

Jack up the right rear to get the air bubbles out.

 

Filled the top reservoir, let it get to temp, it had some air bubbles so I burped the system on the goose neck. It still overflowed a little bit. The fans came on and it never got above 238 degrees. I turned it off and let it sit for half an hour. Went back out and the top tank is full and the over flow tank is down to the cold line. There is no puddle under it so the only place to go is back into the radiator, correct? So does this mean the system is pretty much without air? My garage is hotter than hell. Going to insulate he garage doors, the ceiling, and put a freaking air conditioning unit out there.

 

Started the car and got it up to temp. It got just about to the top of the tank but didn't overflow. I think I will have to do this a few times in order to get all the air out.

 

It should be this complicated, I don't think. The '92 should be self bleeding; the Surge tank is the highest point in the cooling system.

There are bleeders to expedite the process.

I've done mine (also a '92) twice now and both times, I opened the bleeder, filled until coolant came from bleeder, closed bleeder, topped off system in surge tank. Set level in over flow tank, and I was done.

 

Should or shouldn't?

Are you speaking of doing it from an empty system to start with? If so your experience is different. This one was NEVER bleed two years ago when parts were changed and now I just did the bypass. I have done other cars, probably ten, and never had an issue. This is not a self bleeding system. I don't give a crap what it days it is. If it was you wouldn't have to do anything BT add coolant.

 

First time the whole system was empty.

Second time, I drained the radiator, replaced it, and filled/bled until came out bleeder, closed bleeder, topped off, and was done.

Seems like there may be something else at play with your car. Over flow tank shouldn't be filling up. Did you replace the cap w/the bad gasket?