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It is over fueling really bad, black smoke coming from the exhaust pipes and has created two black mud puddles on my garage wall from unburnt fuel spewing out.
My mechanic says the timing chain has slipped and that the valves are not opening at the correct time, all of this started happening after i took the valve covers off...
It is over fueling really bad, black smoke coming from the exhaust pipes and has created two black mud puddles on my garage wall from unburnt fuel spewing out.
My mechanic says the timing chain has slipped and that the valves are not opening at the correct time, all of this started happening after i took the valve covers off...
ARE YOU SURE that you put all the hoses and connectors back where they should be? If so, fine. CHECK AGAIN. Make sure you haven't forgotten to connect back something and/or have a loose hose. Hook up scanner. Does it show anything for MAF? I don't have MAF so I can't tell you what you should see but someone should know. Also, I would take the valve covers off again and see if you have a rocker loose or something just to be safe.
If you can see what the ambient air temp and coolant temp is and that the MAF is changing when you hit the gas, you might have something. I forgot what my pulse width is when it was stock so that might be a clue. Could your injectors not be hooked up on the driver side hence making the ECM think that the car is running lean and thus dumps fuel? I had that years ago and the O2 sensor reading was very lean and the ECM tried to dump fuel into the car
I wanna say that esc is electronic spark control and I believe there is an ignition control module under your distributor cap also under the rotor, looks like it's part of the base of the distributor with wires going to it. You can see it if you pull the distributor cap. This is important for timing the injectors and ignition and can go bad or maybe you disturbed some wires under there when you removed the cap. I've also seen he little wires to the in module get corrodid and break. Seeing as how it's basically throwing a code for that part it check that first, heck replace it anyways its a pretty cheap part.
There are two ways to get an error code 43. Too bad GM didn't separate them with different numbers, but it is what it is.
When you start the engine the ECM adds an extra 20° of advance. That causes knocks. The ECM looks for at least two knocks and then resets the spark advance back to normal. If it does NOT see at least two knocks it sets error code 43. This checks that the ESC module is functioning correctly.
When the engine is running the ECM will set error code 43 if it sees less than 6 volts from the ESC module. Normally it's about 7 volts or slightly more.
This ECM waveform shows the two knocks at startup and the steady 7-8 volts after that:
Basically, what all this is telling you is that your ESC module (or the wiring associated with it) is bad. You might have a problem with the knock sensor (or its wiring/connector)
Last edited by Cliff Harris; Dec 23, 2015 at 11:37 PM.
There are two ways to get an error code 43. Too bad GM didn't separate them with different numbers, but it is what it is.
When you start the engine the ECM adds an extra 20° of advance. That causes knocks. The ECM looks for at least two knocks and then resets the spark advance back to normal. If it does NOT see at least two knocks it sets error code 43. This checks that the ESC module is functioning correctly.
When the engine is running the ECM will set error code 43 if it sees less than 6 volts from the ESC module. Normally it's about 7 volts or slightly more.
This ECM waveform shows the two knocks at startup and the steady 7-8 volts after that:
Basically, what all this is telling you is that your ESC module (or the wiring associated with it) is bad. You might have a problem with the knock sensor (or its wiring/connector)
I agree with what you said but what exactly did he do? He fiddled with the top area so wouldn't you think it is more likely, and thus we should look up top first before going down?
My question is, would anything with this ESC have to do with the overfueling problem?
I suppose you can check the wiring and make sure that it is attached. I'm not sure but maybe a crazy stupid idea is that it is reducing advance so much it doesn't ignite properly? Crazy enough that I would think I am crazy for thinking of it. Have you seen what the scanner says? Have you cleared the code and see if it comes back? I had a problem with an OBD 2 car with P0133. All things pointed to the front O2 sensor. Swapped MAF, plugs, wires, injectors, after we replaced the front O2 sensor. Nothing worked. Rear O2 sensor was supposed to be monitoring the efficiency of the cat converter. CEL came back every time after 20 mins or so of driving. As a "Hail Mary", we changed the rear O2 sensor. Never came back. Swapped it back, it came back, swapped to new and it was fine again.
I forgot the codes I was getting but I pinched the wire on the injector harness doing the valve covers eons ago. Injector bank shorted out and stopped firing. Car ran pig rich and we noticed the huge jump in pulse width. Fixed wire and car ran right again. You were playing with the harness. Maybe a pinched wire? Check with scanner.
My 89 had the same miss and puddles and it was the fuel regulator
It's possible but why does that happen? All he did was pull the valve covers. How did it affect the FPR? Kinda why we should check what the scanner says as to whether there is an air leak, injector pulse width massively changed, etc. It could be the FPR and he should verify that with a gauge. I also think he should check the timing in case he bumped the thing.
It's possible but why does that happen? All he did was pull the valve covers. How did it affect the FPR? Kinda why we should check what the scanner says as to whether there is an air leak, injector pulse width massively changed, etc. It could be the FPR and he should verify that with a gauge. I also think he should check the timing in case he bumped the thing.
I just shut mine off at a car show (running perfect) an started it to leave and and bearly got home.
At the very least. Maybe a Snap On "Brick"? If you like, get something that reads BOTH the OBD1 and OBD2. That way you have something that can do your other cars