Can I get the Tensioner pulley off the Tensioner assembly while it is still on the engine to replace just the pulley.

From what I understand, by turning the Tensioner bolt to the left it should unscrew and release the pulley.

I am assuming the pulley can be removed instead of replacing the whole Tensioner.

 

have not had to do it yet but sounds right to me.

 

If you've only a pulley bearing problem with the tensioner then yes you only need the pulley. Where is the wear-indicator in the gauge on the tensioner? You should be able to hold the arm with a breaker bar and just conventional RH threaded bolt for the pulley. LT tensioner has the square-drive I thought on the back-side of the arm to release/install etc. I believe that's correct. You'll be sure to confirm I expect.

 

I really can't see the marks on it. Not enough visibility, too much dirt. Tensioner is standard bolt 16mm.

Initial problem is a slight rattling bearing like sound so checked out both pulleys. They spin to freely and have just slight wobble in them so decided to replace them. The regular idler I can get off no problem. The tensioner pulley is a bit more work.

So today I took belt off and tried to loosen the bolt for the tensioner pulley. I could not break it loose with the amount of pull I decided to give it. There is a bit of spring sponginess turning the bolt CCW. So I decided to try to loosen the bolt that holds the tensioner on and was able to get it loose.

So (new plan) what I'm going to have to do is to remove the whole tensioner and get it out so I can give the pulley bolt a quick hit with the impact wrench. The tensioner looks OK and trying not to ruin it.

 

On the back-side of the tensioner arm there's likely a "SQUARE" that you can get a breaker bar into to hold it. It will be directly behind the threaded end of the bolt. Look at this Amazon offering:

 

there is a square in the front on the arm.

 

Front or back? Never owned an LT1 - might not even recognize one in real life. Snapshot yes? Maybe

 

The entire tensioner assembly will come off easily, hit the bolt with am impact like you said and you will be done in no time. I did mine last year this way, no issues.

 

Ok so moving forward.
Removed the bolt for the tensioner but could not clear the pulley for the PS thinking this can't be true. Well, just the right wiggle and it was out. Put it in vice and tried at first to remove the pulley bolt with a 1/2" ratchet but it was not coming. It took several hits of the impact wrench to bring it out. It had rust and it took a few hits to go a couple turns then things were OK

Clean the whole darn thing up, cleaned up the threads and all is nice now. The pulley bearing was rusted on and took a bit of wiggling and such to get it off. All clean and it all slips on nice.
The tensioner is OK, the bearings are in poor shape in the pulley feel dry and rough.

I did have to play with wrenches and sockets a bit till I found the right combination that would work. Once you release the belt and the tensioner drops lower, I could not get a wrench (&offset) or socket off the bolt. I ended up taking some metal off the front of a 16mm socket to make it shorter. Used that with a basic swivel head 3/8 bar which that gave me the clearance to remove it from the tensioner bolt and clear the steering rack bar across

Now that it is clean, with a mirror I can now see the marks for belt length. Pretty much in the middle. I should now be able to do the pulley without removing the tensioner. So all is good to go and in place so all I have to do now is order 2 pulleys.

ZR-1 That is a great price, I'll just sit on that for now.
(new pictures, deleted photo bucket)

 

good job!!!!

 

OK, parts on order about a week no rush.
Re- thinking if I can even pull the bolt out of the tensioner when it's in the relaxed position down low and then tighten up properly. We'll see, just might have to pull the tensioner out again.

 

Replaced the belt idler with no problems. Seemed easier and smarter to remove the tensioner so the idler cold be replaced. Once off it spun really free as bearings felt gritty. Lots of wear after these years.



Nice new ones.

 

Don't get me wrong, I am always looking to not spend money on parts if not needed, but for an extra $15, I would replace the used tensioner too as a unit instead of going thru the extra work of removing the pulley.
Good job though. The first thing I replaced on my 92 when I bought it was the idler pulley. you could hear it grinding when the car was started. I told the p/o it might be the alt, got him to lower the price a few more dollars.

 

Point understood.

It was a judgment call and I elected to replace just the 2 pulleys from a noise I thought I heard from the pulleys but even with the new ones I still have the noise. So I will look for it when I have time. As seen the old ones were warn.

However I can get the tensioner off in just a few minutes so extra work is no factor. Takes me longer to round up the tools.

 

Your going to have to see if its the alt. pulley or the water pump pulley next. Pop the belt back off and spin each wheel. What sound do you hear ?

 

I'll get to it later this week however I did all that basically when I did the pulleys. I only hear it when is drive in the garage. Does not do it in neutral. It's smoother in neutral so sound does not happen.

 

Getting the belt tensioner out is not the problem - It always takes me a lot of time to get the darn thing back in - trying to line up the dowel pin then the main bolt by feel.... Once it goes back into place - you wonder why it was such a PITA - but I've always managed to get them back on.... Sometimes walking away for a minute and having a few sips on an adult beverage has helped...

 

Purple92 - remove the MAF (intake) only takes a minute and gives you extra room to get the tensioner back on.


When in gear and standing still the tensioner was hopping and making a squeaking sound. So since I did not like the belt anyway, I thought I would replace it since perhaps it did not seem to be running smooth. I also removed the tensioner again and lubed it with some oil and drained out the excess.

So now things seem to be much better. The hop is gone and there is no more noise.
Guess I'm good for now.

 

Remove belt tensioner only without removing anything other is possible right?

 

Yes.