C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Intake Paint?

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Old Jan 22, 2016 | 08:43 PM
  #21  
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Default eagle 1, or other muriatic acid, napa alumabrite

these products brighten your aluminum and all u have to do is rinse them off after a few minutes and it looks factory finish. JoeC isn't that what you did? I live in Canada and I cannot find the stuff. I recently acquired some so called green version of an aluminum acid replacement. Sourced from a local auto store here in Calgary Canada. it is absolute garbage and does not work the way to Eagle one or the Napa alumabrite does.

if anybody lives in Canada and can tell me where to source the acid itching aluminum cleaner I have my claim them runners and intake off awaiting this treatment.
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Old Jan 22, 2016 | 09:39 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
these products brighten your aluminum and all u have to do is rinse them off after a few minutes and it looks factory finish. JoeC isn't that what you did? I live in Canada and I cannot find the stuff. I recently acquired some so called green version of an aluminum acid replacement. Sourced from a local auto store here in Calgary Canada. it is absolute garbage and does not work the way to Eagle one or the Napa alumabrite does.

if anybody lives in Canada and can tell me where to source the acid itching aluminum cleaner I have my claim them runners and intake off awaiting this treatment.
the stuff I used does not etch aluminum, but rather just seals the surface. aluminum is a fairly porous material. as stated, I (glass) bead blasted my pieces/parts before this process. I would be leery about any aluminum etch that is too aggressive, especially parts with machined surfaces.
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Old Jan 26, 2016 | 01:08 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Joe C
first of all, what do you mean "enough to do several manifolds?"...

Just as you pointed out... it goes a long way.

these are not one time use products. a quart of concentrate mixed 1:1, and stored in a 1/2 gallon jug will last you a long time. after you condition parts, pour it back into the storage container. dx533 is a cleaner - I have almost a gallon, but don't use it too often. pretty much just use the DX501. granted $25/quart is a bit pricey, but it will last you a long time. if you buy a couple quarts (one each DX533/501), you pretty much have to consider it an investment. I've had my current stock for about 3 years now, and done the majority of two L98's including accessories. you might be able to get by with only one quart of DX503 concentrate.

i have done some on-line research on the DX sand blasting thing. on one site, i read that silica sand contains contaminants that could become embedded in the base material, and could have an effect on the conversion coating. since DX is a aluminum painting prep, these contaminant's could impact the final finish. i use glass for my blasting medium, and it may or may not contain the same contaminants, and i do not paint or topcoat my engine components. this may be why i have not had issues using this product. i had some parts on my 85 that were originally done back in 1996, and they damn near looked as good today as they did 20 years ago.

BTW, you want DX501, not DX503. 501 is clear, 503 is orange/gold color.


Yes... brain fart on my part.


http://us.ppgrefinish.com/getmedia/9...tment_2-13.pdf

Thanks for the feedback.
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Old Jan 26, 2016 | 01:09 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by tunedport85inject
it's a good chance to port that manifold,do you plan to port out some aluminum from those intake ports
I need to get it back on the road ASAP. No time.
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Old Jan 27, 2016 | 10:45 PM
  #25  
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Default Intake porting

tunedport85inject What's the size off that wheel you're using on the pic.TIA
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Old Jan 30, 2016 | 02:19 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by BV85
tunedport85inject What's the size off that wheel you're using on the pic.TIA
not a tool of mine ,just a reference pic.Stock base port size is about 39 mm,since we can assume this is a 37-38 mm sanding wheel.
https://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z2...akebase/stock/
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Old Jan 30, 2016 | 02:23 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Tom454
I need to get it back on the road ASAP. No time.
working a couple of hours in the evening...it's a 4 -5 days job
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 10:48 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Joe C
the stuff I used does not etch aluminum, but rather just seals the surface. aluminum is a fairly porous material. as stated, I (glass) bead blasted my pieces/parts before this process. I would be leery about any aluminum etch that is too aggressive, especially parts with machined surfaces.
I've decided to try your method... DX501. The manifold is sandblasted and I will wire wheel it with a series of different wire wheels to remove the aluminum powder texture and to give it the sheen that I desire. Then, I clean it with lacquer thinner to remove the latent aluminum powder.

What is the next step? Do I have to mix up the entire quart or can I just use like half of it? I have laboratory squirt bottles... do I just squirt it on, drain it, and rinse with water? How do you do it?
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 11:42 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Tom454
I've decided to try your method... DX501. The manifold is sandblasted and I will wire wheel it with a series of different wire wheels to remove the aluminum powder texture and to give it the sheen that I desire. Then, I clean it with lacquer thinner to remove the latent aluminum powder.

What is the next step? Do I have to mix up the entire quart or can I just use like half of it? I have laboratory squirt bottles... do I just squirt it on, drain it, and rinse with water? How do you do it?
this is what I did - mix the entire bottle - 1:1 with water - I store my solution in an old plastic 1/2 gallon OJ bottle. get a large plastic storage container, large enough for the intake inside. I got mine at either target or Wal-Mart. put the intake in the container and pour the entire 1/2 gallon of solution over the manifold. using a disposable 2" chip brush, keep the surface wet for about 1.5 minutes. rock the container, slosh the solution around, whatever - keep the manifold wet. after the 1.5 minutes, rinse with cold water, and compress air dry. store the solution in the orange juice container for future use. one other note - use masking tape duct tape, or whatever, over EGR holes in the manifold ports and any openings on the manifold. try to keep as much solution out of any cavities and the internals of the manifold as possible. finally, use latex disposable gloves, follow basic safety procedures, and use a bit of common sense. I know this sounds like a royal PITA, but it goes pretty fast. the intake it the hardest part, because it's the largest single part on an L98. good luck - keep me posted....
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