Intake Paint?
#21
eagle 1, or other muriatic acid, napa alumabrite
these products brighten your aluminum and all u have to do is rinse them off after a few minutes and it looks factory finish. JoeC isn't that what you did? I live in Canada and I cannot find the stuff. I recently acquired some so called green version of an aluminum acid replacement. Sourced from a local auto store here in Calgary Canada. it is absolute garbage and does not work the way to Eagle one or the Napa alumabrite does.
if anybody lives in Canada and can tell me where to source the acid itching aluminum cleaner I have my claim them runners and intake off awaiting this treatment.
if anybody lives in Canada and can tell me where to source the acid itching aluminum cleaner I have my claim them runners and intake off awaiting this treatment.
#22
these products brighten your aluminum and all u have to do is rinse them off after a few minutes and it looks factory finish. JoeC isn't that what you did? I live in Canada and I cannot find the stuff. I recently acquired some so called green version of an aluminum acid replacement. Sourced from a local auto store here in Calgary Canada. it is absolute garbage and does not work the way to Eagle one or the Napa alumabrite does.
if anybody lives in Canada and can tell me where to source the acid itching aluminum cleaner I have my claim them runners and intake off awaiting this treatment.
if anybody lives in Canada and can tell me where to source the acid itching aluminum cleaner I have my claim them runners and intake off awaiting this treatment.
#23
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
first of all, what do you mean "enough to do several manifolds?"...
Just as you pointed out... it goes a long way.
these are not one time use products. a quart of concentrate mixed 1:1, and stored in a 1/2 gallon jug will last you a long time. after you condition parts, pour it back into the storage container. dx533 is a cleaner - I have almost a gallon, but don't use it too often. pretty much just use the DX501. granted $25/quart is a bit pricey, but it will last you a long time. if you buy a couple quarts (one each DX533/501), you pretty much have to consider it an investment. I've had my current stock for about 3 years now, and done the majority of two L98's including accessories. you might be able to get by with only one quart of DX503 concentrate.
i have done some on-line research on the DX sand blasting thing. on one site, i read that silica sand contains contaminants that could become embedded in the base material, and could have an effect on the conversion coating. since DX is a aluminum painting prep, these contaminant's could impact the final finish. i use glass for my blasting medium, and it may or may not contain the same contaminants, and i do not paint or topcoat my engine components. this may be why i have not had issues using this product. i had some parts on my 85 that were originally done back in 1996, and they damn near looked as good today as they did 20 years ago.
BTW, you want DX501, not DX503. 501 is clear, 503 is orange/gold color.
Yes... brain fart on my part.
http://us.ppgrefinish.com/getmedia/9...tment_2-13.pdf
Just as you pointed out... it goes a long way.
these are not one time use products. a quart of concentrate mixed 1:1, and stored in a 1/2 gallon jug will last you a long time. after you condition parts, pour it back into the storage container. dx533 is a cleaner - I have almost a gallon, but don't use it too often. pretty much just use the DX501. granted $25/quart is a bit pricey, but it will last you a long time. if you buy a couple quarts (one each DX533/501), you pretty much have to consider it an investment. I've had my current stock for about 3 years now, and done the majority of two L98's including accessories. you might be able to get by with only one quart of DX503 concentrate.
i have done some on-line research on the DX sand blasting thing. on one site, i read that silica sand contains contaminants that could become embedded in the base material, and could have an effect on the conversion coating. since DX is a aluminum painting prep, these contaminant's could impact the final finish. i use glass for my blasting medium, and it may or may not contain the same contaminants, and i do not paint or topcoat my engine components. this may be why i have not had issues using this product. i had some parts on my 85 that were originally done back in 1996, and they damn near looked as good today as they did 20 years ago.
BTW, you want DX501, not DX503. 501 is clear, 503 is orange/gold color.
Yes... brain fart on my part.
http://us.ppgrefinish.com/getmedia/9...tment_2-13.pdf
#24
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#25
Intake porting
tunedport85inject What's the size off that wheel you're using on the pic.TIA
#26
https://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z2...akebase/stock/
#28
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
the stuff I used does not etch aluminum, but rather just seals the surface. aluminum is a fairly porous material. as stated, I (glass) bead blasted my pieces/parts before this process. I would be leery about any aluminum etch that is too aggressive, especially parts with machined surfaces.
What is the next step? Do I have to mix up the entire quart or can I just use like half of it? I have laboratory squirt bottles... do I just squirt it on, drain it, and rinse with water? How do you do it?
#29
I've decided to try your method... DX501. The manifold is sandblasted and I will wire wheel it with a series of different wire wheels to remove the aluminum powder texture and to give it the sheen that I desire. Then, I clean it with lacquer thinner to remove the latent aluminum powder.
What is the next step? Do I have to mix up the entire quart or can I just use like half of it? I have laboratory squirt bottles... do I just squirt it on, drain it, and rinse with water? How do you do it?
What is the next step? Do I have to mix up the entire quart or can I just use like half of it? I have laboratory squirt bottles... do I just squirt it on, drain it, and rinse with water? How do you do it?
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Tom454 (02-13-2016)