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As verified by? I don't trust the gauges which is why I always tap into the ECM to see what it sees. So if the sensor says it is 80 degrees when it is actually 200, well, you see the problem.
Well doing some what of better research on my specs and stock specs. Apparently I'm running 11.13:1 compression. Stock is 9.5:1. If I had 65cc heads I get 10.23:1. 75cc heads would give me 9.19:1. I do want to run the stock temp. So maybe just doing the head swap would ideal. If I have time I'll hook up my dads autoxray again and see where my temps are at.
Well doing some what of better research on my specs and stock specs. Apparently I'm running 11.13:1 compression. Stock is 9.5:1. If I had 65cc heads I get 10.23:1. 75cc heads would give me 9.19:1. I do want to run the stock temp. So maybe just doing the head swap would ideal. If I have time I'll hook up my dads autoxray again and see where my temps are at.
If you run 10.23 compression with temps in the 190's you will be fine. Check your squish clearance (Piston to head clearance) it should be around .040 to be effective. (Reduce knock)
I was thinking of getting a set of thicker head gaskets also. A .051 thick head gasket with the 65 cc head will put me around 9.99:1 compression. It's the felpro 1044 which is used for clearance issues.
I was thinking of getting a set of thicker head gaskets also. A .051 thick head gasket with the 65 cc head will put me around 9.99:1 compression. It's the felpro 1044 which is used for clearance issues.
That is actually the incorrect thing to do when you have detonation issues. You need to hold the squish clearance (Piston to head distance) to .040 to have effective detonation resistance even if it means you end up with more compression. Once you exceed .050 clearance the detonation resistance is greatly reduced and once you exceed .060 clearance the squish is no longer effective and the engine has a tendency to knock. Most SBC pistons are .020 to .025 in the hole so running a .020 gasket or even a .015 gasket is what should be installed to create effective quench.
You should be able to run 10.5 to 1 compression with the proper squish clearance and water temps at 200 or under, assuming you have the correct timing and air fuel ratio.
Last edited by bjankuski; Jan 18, 2016 at 10:05 AM.
My 91 would knock bad when hot, I checked the knock sensor with a analog vom against a used lt1 ks that I had. Both worked however the lt1 sensor was much more sensative, installed the lt1 sensor no more knock! Vom setting is mv and tap sensor on block side of sensor. I would try your sensor against a new gm l98 sensor. Good luck!
My 91 would knock bad when hot, I checked the knock sensor with a analog vom against a used lt1 ks that I had. Both worked however the lt1 sensor was much more sensative, installed the lt1 sensor no more knock! Vom setting is mv and tap sensor on block side of sensor. I would try your sensor against a new gm l98 sensor. Good luck!
Why would you use a more sensitive KS as opposed to an L98 one?
I don't know about swapping heads just yet; I've run naturally aspirated small blocks with similar compression without any pinging or knocking.
your knocking sounds like it could be timing related; if that's the original harmonic balancer on your engine, there's a good chance the outer ring (along with the timing marks) may have slipped or the elastomer between the outer ring and the center hub may have deteriorated; in either case the timing marks would now be retarded in relation to the crank and piston, so any attempt to time the engine using these marks would result in the engine firing in a much more advanced position.
classic symptom of over advanced ignition ? pinging or knock
personally I'd find TDC on the number 1 piston (admittedly easier with the head off) and then verify that the timing mark is at 0 degrees.
I don't know about swapping heads just yet; I've run naturally aspirated small blocks with similar compression without any pinging or knocking.
your knocking sounds like it could be timing related; if that's the original harmonic balancer on your engine, there's a good chance the outer ring (along with the timing marks) may have slipped or the elastomer between the outer ring and the center hub may have deteriorated; in either case the timing marks would now be retarded in relation to the crank and piston, so any attempt to time the engine using these marks would result in the engine firing in a much more advanced position.
classic symptom of over advanced ignition ? pinging or knock
personally I'd find TDC on the number 1 piston (admittedly easier with the head off) and then verify that the timing mark is at 0 degrees.