hello fellas, I suspect a cracked flywheel on my 85 auto.

it is not a wine so I don't think it is the pump.

it makes the noise whether it is in gear or out of gear so that tells me it's probably not the torque converter.

when I disconnected the flywheel bolts from the torque converter and ran the engine the noise went away completely. Additionally, the videos that I took showed a reduction in the amount of vibration at the edge of the flywheel as it rotated when it was disconnected from the torque converter.

additional possible symptoms wear that for about a year and a half, when I went over a swale in the road or a speedbump I heard a creaking from the flywheel torque converter area.

so I suspect it is either a cracked flywheel that just got worse and worse to the point where now it makes noise all the time while connected to the tc, or, if i am even luckier, maybe the bolts to the crankshaft are loose.

which brings me to the point of this thread/question.

I would like to purchase some very long bolts from the bell housing to engine block. then drop the driveshaft.
then remove all of the transmission bell housing bolts but replace the top ones with very long bolts that act as pins with which I can slide the transmission back on without dropping the tranny.

I am doing this on my back under the car on the floor not on a lift and I do not own a transmission specific Jack.

I read about this method along time ago in a forum far away and I cannot remember where I read about it. Does anyone have any experience with doing this on the C4? Your help would be greatly appreciated as I attempt to solve this last remaining problem on my 85 z51 auto thank you

 

Not sure if there would be room and might break something. Harbour freight has some jacks cheap. Block it up good!!!!!!!!!!!!! Might just get a adapter plate for your jack.

 

Any help?:

 

Are you referring to having a crack in the flexplate bolt area , common
Kind of a rattling/tack tack noise?

Id just drop the trans, takes a few min to get the FP off and check.
They are cheap these days

 

In 2 hours, I changed torque converters at the track on jackstands. Started at 7:00 am amd made the 9:00 race. Remove all the bolts; rear of tranny, torque converter, bellhousing, coolant lines, etc. With the tranny on a jack, slide it backwards and downwards about 16 inches or so. You don't have to remove it completely from under the car. Air tools will get the flexplate off quickly. Reverse the order for reassembly. I don't understand the need for the long bolts.

 

Wanna be my neighbor?

 

I have done this before but not in a corvette. If you have enough room, you need about 2-3" to do it. As you take out the top bolts install longer bolts, mainly the top 4. Then once you have switched over to the longer bolts, it will stay up and you have enough room to get a wrench in there, loosen all the bolts and drop the flexplate. Honestly just dropping the tranny would not be much more work.
When I did it, it was in a truck and in the mud, couldn't really drop it.

 

yup.

to hear what im talking about u can watch these sound clips in order.

http://youtu.be/VIXRIJB67cg


http://youtu.be/wImGcQUNcnA


http://youtu.be/BhuIG14WDfo

 

Thanks I appreciate you sharing your experience. I would much rather use my air tools to run 4 long bolts in and out again than deal with realigning everything, mud or no mud! i thought it was an ingenius idea.

 

impressive! i might be dropping the tranny if i do not find anything out of sorts with the flywheel.

 

thanks! i have 2 mercury outboards as well so now i know anout this little tool!

 

did u use a regular floor jack? like with the little 4-ish inch diameter tray on it? or a tranny jack? I might do that actually. You swapped the tc while under the car? i suppose i could do the pump under there too if required? i doubt its the pump but hey.

 

...I got first dibs!

two hours - damn, i'd spend two hours trying to talk myself out of it -

 

Before the solid axle with the c-beam?

 

I've done this before. when its only you and no trans jack, those things are awfully heavy to get aligned back up.

 

i think i know the answer to this already, but do i have to take the cbeam off?

 

Yes. The trans won't move without it gone.

 

I've done this before but not in a c4. If you pull the trans I think it would still be helpful to make a couple of longer alignment studs for the install.

Gary

 

I just installed a 3000 stall speed converter in my 1994. The biggest pain is removing the exhaust (mine was stock exhaust with cats, no longer though). The transmission support beam (c-beam) was not as bad as I thought. The Harbor freight scissor tranny jack works like a charm. $99. No problem lining things up for reinstall, and I had no help. As mentioned above, you don't have to move tranny from under the car. Just pull tranny back 4"-6" and drop it a little. Be careful and support your engine, as the oil pressure sensor unit on the back of the engine block can hit the firewall as the engine tips down in the rear without the transmission to hold it up. I had never done an automatic prior to this and I was a little reluctant, but it went well.

 

It was a points race! The car has only a y-pipe after the headers for exhaust and no C-beam, only 2 bolts for a transmission mount. Actually, I'm wondering why it took 2 hours???