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My 84 alternator was charging up to 16.? volts and the red light was coning on. I took it off this morning and had it rebuilt at a local shop that has been around for years. I put it back on and not is jumps up in the 17's.
What can I check other than the alternator itself? Grounds?
Is the voltage measured directly on the battery terminals 17 v. too? If the voltage at the battery isn't the same (within about .5 v) as the voltage at the alternator, you have a bad connection on the red + wire from the alternator, or a bad ground connection between the battery and the engine. What is the voltage between the alternator case and the neg battery terminal (engine running)?
My 84 alternator was charging up to 16.? volts and the red light was coning on. I took it off this morning and had it rebuilt at a local shop that has been around for years. I put it back on and not is jumps up in the 17's.
What can I check other than the alternator itself? Grounds?
Thanks,
Shawn
Are you relying on the "in car VM" or are you checking with instruments? If you've questions I'd maybe rely on the shop that did the rebuild.
You've done what I would've done if I had confirmed "with instrument" the problem with an OE/GM alternator. rebuild "local". Was this an OE/GM alternator or a previously rebuilt? GM/OE # still on the case?
You certainly could have potential ground problems. Maybe a Voltage Drop Test:
There's numerous results from a "Voltage Drop Test" using your favorite search engine.
"HRR" - I didn't see your post until after hitting the "SUBMIT"
OP - Do "HRR" suggested checks of B+ from alternator to battery for sure. Maybe just drive to the "local shop", they're likely concerned enough to help.
I had the same thing happen to my '84 shortly after I bought it. The alternator had just been replaced by the PO and when the voltage would spike the engine would stumble on acceleration. I pulled the alt and replaced the internal regulator with one I bought at AutoZone along with a new connector. Only took a few minutes and works as advertised now. Cost was less than $30.
Thanks guys this gives me some good things to check. I didn't know where to start.
Shawn
If the car runs, drives and is tagged just drive by the shop who did the build for you as I suggested in my first post. If you have the DVM it could be a good drill and experience for tool usage.