Code 44 help 93 corvette
Last edited by xJoeyR; Mar 26, 2016 at 03:57 PM.
The coincidental cooling fan operation with the miles/age - do you know that the temp is accurate? Is it from the DASH/CLUSTER (analog) or from the DIGITAL display?
Last edited by WVZR-1; Mar 26, 2016 at 04:15 PM.
The coincidental cooling fan operation with the miles/age - do you know that the temp is accurate? Is it from the DASH/CLUSTER (analog) or from the DIGITAL display?
Last edited by xJoeyR; Mar 26, 2016 at 04:30 PM.
The miles make it very difficult to "suggest" - short of a scan by someone that understands.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Mar 26, 2016 at 04:44 PM.
The miles make it very difficult to "suggest" - short of a scan by someone that understands.
Last edited by xJoeyR; Mar 26, 2016 at 04:53 PM.
I'm accustom to mentioning "the where" and for the ECM it's in the pump so .. The fans are controlled by the ECM for '93, you've
replaced the CTS not mentioning issues previously but NOW you've fan issues maybe.
Maybe "'93Rubie" will slip on by later and offer up something BUT miles are certainly not on your side. Does the cruise and the AC work as you would expect with NO issues that might indicate a vacuum failure?
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Maybe "'93Rubie" will slip on by later and offer up something BUT miles are certainly not on your side. Does the cruise and the AC work as you would expect with NO issues that might indicate a vacuum failure?
When the fan turns on which is it?
Do you have FSM - Factory Service Manual? You've spent a good bit of money for parts and I'm only curious as to what you're using for references.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Mar 26, 2016 at 06:20 PM.
might also use a unlit propane torch when running around the manifold.
Last edited by antfarmer2; Mar 26, 2016 at 06:35 PM.
This indicates the left O2 sensor is lean and the voltage is not varying as normal and remains under 200mv. It will light up the MIL lamp and the engine will go into open loop. I would not be surprised if it turned the radiator fans on also for safety. I would check the O2 swings as my first step.
A scanner would be a great help to verify that this is the problem that is happening. Long term trim needs to be checked to see if the trim is a high number. If using a Tech1 where a scale of 128 is perfect, if the LT trim is high 160+ , that would be a lean condition. If using another scanner where "0" is perfect LT trim, a high number would indicate a lean condition.
Make sure the pin connections are good and no wires are broken. Melted wire insulation can cause a short also. I just replaced a O2connector cause this happened to me (23 years old and all that heat).
If all connectors look good, possibly the O2 has gone defective.
A scanner and not a code reader is needed for this effort or you will be working in the dark and taking pot shots.
Most people use Denso O2 sensors. I had to buy a Bosh O2 for a test sensor as I was troubleshooting a problem and it did work however it's not recommended to use for the C4s from what I have read.
Last edited by pcolt94; Mar 26, 2016 at 08:24 PM. Reason: corrections
Your check since we know it's ECM fault triggered would confirm.
Why did you replace the fuel filter/pump? Did you test it? What was the pressure?
You replaced the MAP for a code. Code has not come back. Did you confirm proper readings? You CAN do this with a multimeter.
How did you check the 02 wiring? Visual inspection only?
1993's do not have a MAF, what did you clean?
How do you know the injector was leaking?
Considering 1993's had Multec 1 injectors and you have 220,000miles on your car. If I had to take a WAG, you have one or MORE shorted out injectors.
Ohm test them with a multi-meter. Its not the best test but its a $7 test from your local Harbor Freight. Suspect ANYTHING under 11ohms across the injector terminals. I don't care what the FSM says about above 10ohms. I had one failing on a CLEAR current ramp pattern and it Ohm'ed at 11ohms.
Do you have any means to view scan tool data? 1320electronics sells a nice piece for less than $100.
What is your idle speed on a warmed up engine? If you have ANY vacuum leaks it will likely be high.
Last edited by 93Rubie; Mar 27, 2016 at 08:14 PM.
Why did you replace the fuel filter/pump? Did you test it? What was the pressure?
You replaced the MAP for a code. Code has not come back. Did you confirm proper readings? You CAN do this with a multimeter.
How did you check the 02 wiring? Visual inspection only?
1993's do not have a MAF, what did you clean?
How do you know the injector was leaking?
Considering 1993's had Multec 1 injectors and you have 220,000miles on your car. If I had to take a WAG, you have one or MORE shorted out injectors.
Ohm test them with a multi-meter. Its not the best test but its a $7 test from your local Harbor Freight. Suspect ANYTHING under 11ohms across the injector terminals. I don't care what the FSM says about above 10ohms. I had one failing on a CLEAR current ramp pattern and it Ohm'ed at 11ohms.
Do you have any means to view scan tool data? 1320electronics sells a nice piece for less than $100.
What is your idle speed on a warmed up engine? If you have ANY vacuum leaks it will likely be high.
. Thanks for the replys.

















