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Got a vacuum pump bleeder from Harbor Freight and bled all wheels again. Got a better pedal of brakes but the light is still on. One possible problem I did see was that the right front when bled took a long time to get fluid to flowing. The rest of the wheels filled up the pump container with fluid rather quickly with the vacuum pump pressure declining slowly. The RF pump pressure went down quickly with very little fluid flow. I have never had any problems with the brakes pulling either way but this fluid flow is confusing.
Also are there any other bleeder besides the 4 wheels?
Did you push it fully on the bench? Might still have air in it. And is it full of fluid.
Originally Posted by LarryShivers
Bench bled it until no air could be seen in the lines into both tanks. Have maintained full level of fluid during bleeding.
Originally Posted by LarryShivers
Will check today. Strange though since there wasn't a problem before I changed the Master Cylinder.
Bleeder was bad. Swapped the left and right bleeders and vacuum bled the right side. Vacuum pressure went down slowly and fluid quickly drained into the container. I repositioned the piston and the light was off until I applied the brakes. Is there anyway to check to see if I have a bad MC? I don't know what else to try except bleed the whole system again.
Need a new bleeder I would think you got some air in there swapping them.
Replaced the bleeder and vacuum bled all wheels again. Repositioned the piston and light is off until brakes are applied. I also bled each wheel manually with someone pumping the brakes. No air.
One thing new I did see. I have all 4 wheels off the car - makes for easier bleeding. I cranked the car and put it in drive. The front wheels locked down but the rear wheel will not lock down unless you really stand on the brakes.
Evidently I have unequal pressure between the front and the back but what is causing it? MC has been bled twice. All wheels have been bled at least 5 times.
Could it be the proportioning value in the MC causing the problem? If so how would you check it?
This is a new Cardone Select MC from Rock Auto.
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Originally Posted by FOR PLA
The switch needs to be removed and once removed you can access the pressure equalization piston. This small piston needs to be centered in the master cylinder housing. Bleeding moves the bias switch forward or back. Move this small piston to the center and reinstall switch. The warning light will go out.
BINGO!
Pull the switch and look into the hole. The shuttle piston has a ring groove that should be centered. The switch has a small pin that rests in this groove. If the shuttle moves from a drop of pressure on one side the shuttle pushes up on the switch. If the o-rings on this shuttle leak. Fluid comes out of the switch.
Pull the switch and look into the hole. The shuttle piston has a ring groove that should be centered. The switch has a small pin that rests in this groove. If the shuttle moves from a drop of pressure on one side the shuttle pushes up on the switch. If the o-rings on this shuttle leak. Fluid comes out of the switch.
I have removed the switch several time and manually moved the piston grove to the center. Light goes off until brake pedal is pressed. Why does it keep moving? There is no brake fluid in the switch cavity. What can I do that I haven't already tried?
Another MC??