I'm saying it doesn't store it. it uses it to lower pressure in high vacuum operation.

 

Ok just checking.

So the original poster is clear. If you draw a vacuum on the regulator with say a vaccum pump, and lets say you draw it down to 15mm of hg then that should hold indefinitely.

 

WTF, take your silliness somewhere else. When you shut the car off the vacuum stops. It's not a pump nor does it store anything. Vacuum draws against a diaphragm and reduces the springs pressure.

 

Wow ... just wow.
Do you think if it leaks vaccum that its functioning properly ?? If its malfunctioning do you think it could be a problem ?? You obviously didn't read post 21 in this thread.

 

Please go find someone else. I have no time for this silliness. Do you this the sky is blue. Do you think your plenum stores vacuum????

 

Find someone else for what ? Your the one that said the regulator doesn't hold a vacuum. You said that. Not me. Its funny because you freely admit that vacuum pulls a diaphragm against a spring and changes fuel pressure yet you cant see that if its leaking said vacuum that this will affect its operation. On top of it all your using your ignorance as an excuse to be an ahole. I would be fine with it if you were saying that's its designed to leak a small amount of air that is normal, but that's not what your saying. No your only role in this thread is to bash a vendor. Nothing more.

 

look, the FPR does not hold or store vacuum. It uses it and when the engine is in operation until you go full throttle and there's no vacuum or the engine is off. IT DOES NOT STORE OR HOLD IT. Simply English

Yes, one could say it holds pressure on a diaphragm but it is improper to say it holds or stores vacuum.

 

It should if your testing it. Unless there's something very unusual about that system, and there could be. You should be able to apply a vacuum to it and that amount should hold. If not then it wont be properly regulating fuel pressure. No need to be upset over semantics. We all suffer communication problems over the internet.

 

OK, before things get out of hand and I understand correctly. I connect my vacuum pump to the regulator and pump it, no reading whatsoever. So.....I cant really check it with a vacuum pump then? Correct?

And yes, it takes much longer to start running with the regulator disconnected.

As far as the fuel pressure goes, is the 41psi high enough with the key on and is 36psi while running at idle?

As far as the quick leak down, what else could it be other than the regulator?

I'm really starting to miss my 68 Camaro(carb).

 

I'd stop trying to diagnose improperly sized injectors. Get the right injectors and solve the problem. Go do something nice for your mom and wife.

 

Oh, what brand of fuel pump should I go with if and when I replace it? Local parts stores carry the Delphi in stock and comes with whats shown in photo. I have to buy the strainer separate.




Already visited my mother today and the ex left a few years ago but I may be visiting the neighbor gal later on after her kids are asleep.

 

Get the gasket too.

 

You mean the o-ring?

 

No the squared flat gasket. the orings are for a differant install extra parts.

 

I wouldn't worry about the regulator right now. Everything else you have said about it seems normal. The big issue is if its leaking fuel into the vacuum hose, but you have basically verified that its not.

Obviously, as MrWillys has implied, if whomever sold you the wrong injectors, well anything is possible including long cranking issues.

As to the leakdown of fuel pressure (which seems a bit fast); what I would do is prime the system and pinch off the return line somehow. If the leakdown stops then you know the regulator is allowing fuel to pass through the return line and subsequently the residual fuel pressure will dissipate. If there is no status change (still leaks down) with the return line blocked then re-prime the system and pinch off the supply line. If this stops the leakdown then suspect the fuel pump or pulsator. In the event there is no status change then re-prime and block both at the same time. If it still leaks down then an injector (or more than one) is leaking raw fuel into an intake port, in which case your going to have to replace it. Note that raw fuel leaking into the intake can easily cause a long crank condition, although reman injectors shouldn't do this even if they are the wrong ones. If that is whats happening then expect a puff of black smoke out the tailpipes once it finally fires.

Personally I don't think your car is leaking down residual pressure unusually fast. It is a little bit but its not way out of whack. So now I'm wondering if your original problem (slight misfire) is still present. If it is then I'm guessing you have a distributor problem.

Its also worth mentioning that little things like a loose clamp at your air flow sensor, or throttle body can do some weird stuff. So can a vacuum leak around an injector o-ring, or an EGR valve that's not functioning properly. Lastly 4-5 seconds cranking isn't all that unusual.

 

Gotcha! I figured it was an o-ring.

 

Saved you from a surprise and a parts run.

 

I will try blocking the supply and return lines as you suggested.

I hope its not the opti, had it replaced about 3000 miles ago.

Air flow sensor? You mean air intake temp sensor?
Vacuum leak around an injector o-ring? If the injectors are not seated into the intake well enough would that cause a vacuum leak? Is that the reason for two o-rings on that end?

Can I just block off the EGR if that's the problem? I have read that can be done.

 

Ok fair enough. The fuel line thing is how you isolate the different components.
If your distributor is basically new then its probably not the issue, and if it is then you will know for sure pretty soon.
I meant air flow sensor, and now I realize you said your car was a 92 which I don't think has one, instead it relies on a MAP sensor, so don't worry about that.
If the injectors are not seated properly then yes they can cause a vacuum leak. Get the car started and spray some brake cleaner (use the straw that comes with) from an aerosol can directly at each injector right where it goes into the intake manifold. If the engine revvs up then you have found a vac leak. Be careful when you do this. Brake cleaner is flammable.
One or two orings isn't relevant, as long as they seal. I honestly cant remember if your model year car came with injectors that have one or two.
I mentioned the egr because it can cause a hard start condition, but this is usually accompanied by a rough idle. You can try to block it off as a test but I wouldn't block it off permanently or your going to end up with a perpetual check engine light.
For what its worth, most long crank conditions end up being the fuel pump; especially cold.

 

Late now but should have time to check the rest tomorrow.