When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok fair enough. The fuel line thing is how you isolate the different components.
If your distributor is basically new then its probably not the issue, and if it is then you will know for sure pretty soon.
I meant air flow sensor, and now I realize you said your car was a 92 which I don't think has one, instead it relies on a MAP sensor, so don't worry about that.
If the injectors are not seated properly then yes they can cause a vacuum leak. Get the car started and spray some brake cleaner (use the straw that comes with) from an aerosol can directly at each injector right where it goes into the intake manifold. If the engine revvs up then you have found a vac leak. Be careful when you do this. Brake cleaner is flammable.
One or two orings isn't relevant, as long as they seal. I honestly cant remember if your model year car came with injectors that have one or two.
I mentioned the egr because it can cause a hard start condition, but this is usually accompanied by a rough idle. You can try to block it off as a test but I wouldn't block it off permanently or your going to end up with a perpetual check engine light.
For what its worth, most long crank conditions end up being the fuel pump; especially cold.
I just tested the EGR with the vacuum pump and it isn't holding vacuum. Looked it up on the web to make sure it could be tested and that I was doing it right. Maybe that's the reason I get an occasional check engine light when I get up to about 60-70mph? I will order a new one later today.
I sprayed the injectors with carb cleaner and no change in idle so they must be sealed. I can use carb cleaner instead of brake cleaner correct?
Talked to Jon at FIC and he is sending a set of 24s, should be here in a few days so that will be one less problem.
I hope to get the whole car in the air today to replace the u-joints and gut the cats.
Side note, the aerospace company I work for just locked us out this morning because we voted their offer down Friday so I will more time to work on the car I guess. Blessing in disguise?
A 1992 LT1 is programmed at 23.8. Therefore, if fuel pressure without vacuum applied is 42 a 24 lb injector rated at 3 bar (43.5 psi) should be used. The praise on this board for FIC cracks me up. Individuals need to understand their vehicles and not depend on a salesman for proper replacement.
The OP should also investigate his fuel pressure loss. A properly operating system should not lose more than 10 or 15 lbs in an hour.
Originally Posted by antfarmer2
Keep us posted. What size did Jon say it needed 22 or 24?
This is the 1992 BDBK broadcast code.
Last edited by MrWillys; May 12, 2016 at 04:16 PM.
I just tested the EGR with the vacuum pump and it isn't holding vacuum. Looked it up on the web to make sure it could be tested and that I was doing it right. Maybe that's the reason I get an occasional check engine light when I get up to about 60-70mph? I will order a new one later today.
I sprayed the injectors with carb cleaner and no change in idle so they must be sealed. I can use carb cleaner instead of brake cleaner correct?
Talked to Jon at FIC and he is sending a set of 24s, should be here in a few days so that will be one less problem.
I hope to get the whole car in the air today to replace the u-joints and gut the cats.
As long as your confident you tested the egr properly then I vote you replace it. That being said some can and some cannot be tested the way you did it. I will say that the ones you cant test with a vacuum pump, really cant be tested. Instead you pretty much have to just replace them.
Carb cleaner is a good substitute for brake cleaner, for what your doing.
If they are sending you new injectors free of charge, and they are taking it on faith your sending the others back to them, well that's pretty much an admission they sent you the wrong ones. Mistakes happen. All they can do is make it right, and it sounds like that's what they're going to do.
Last edited by PatternDayTrader; May 9, 2016 at 02:23 PM.
As long as your confident you tested the egr properly then I vote you replace it. That being said some can and some cannot be tested the way you did it. I will say that the ones you cant test with a vacuum pump, really cant be tested. Instead you pretty much have to just replace them.
Carb cleaner is a good substitute for brake cleaner, for what your doing.
If they are sending you new injectors free of charge, and they are taking it on faith your sending the others back to them, well that's pretty much an admission they sent you the wrong ones. Mistakes happen. All they can do is make it right, and it sounds like that's what they're going to do.
Yeah he remembers talking to me and agreed the decision was to send me 24s but I didn't actually place the order with him. I mulled it over a few days and called back to place the order a few days later. I decided to replace them since I heard others have, and their cars ran much better with 24s. Figured either way, they should be replaced even if mine were not bad. I will send the wrong ones back once I receive the 24s. Still haven't figured exactly where to pinch the fuel lines but once its in the air I can look more places. I guess I should look in the FSM to see if they have a test procedure for the EGR just to make sure its bad.
Yeah he remembers talking to me and agreed the decision was to send me 24s but I didn't actually place the order with him. I mulled it over a few days and called back to place the order a few days later. I decided to replace them since I heard others have, and their cars ran much better with 24s. Figured either way, they should be replaced even if mine were not bad. I will send the wrong ones back once I receive the 24s. Still haven't figured exactly where to pinch the fuel lines but once its in the air I can look more places. I guess I should look in the FSM to see if they have a test procedure for the EGR just to make sure its bad.
Under any other circumstances I woukd never say to change a part without being able to prove it has failed, but the vacuum diaphragm style egr is the exception. If there's a code for it then you might as well throw a new one at it. It's cheap and there's no genuinely good way to test some of them, since exhaust back pressure and ported vacuum is what makes them function and there's just no good way to make that happen with a testing process. I hate it when you have to "substitute a known good part" as an actual test but it happens from time to time.
Under any other circumstances I woukd never say to change a part without being able to prove it has failed, but the vacuum diaphragm style egr is the exception. If there's a code for it then you might as well throw a new one at it. It's cheap and there's no genuinely good way to test some of them, since exhaust back pressure and ported vacuum is what makes them function and there's just no good way to make that happen with a testing process. I hate it when you have to "substitute a known good part" as an actual test but it happens from time to time.
After looking in the FSM and the link below, I figured I may as well just replace it. It mentions that its common to fail around 75k miles which mine is a bit over. Well at least get carbon build up. I think its worth the peace of mind.
Either way, I think after the 24s are installed the car will run smoother.
Ran out of time tonight with other things so hopefully work on it more tomorrow.
Only had enough time to change the EGR and pull the 22s tonight. I checked the new EGR with the vacuum pump and it works as I thought it should. Had a lot of carbon buildup anyways. Hopefully I revceive the 24s tomorrow and I can drive it to see how it runs. Also, did the fuel feedline at tank come with two hose clamps from the factory? Mine has two and seems like it would come with one pinch clamp instead. Fuel pump possibly been replaced previously?
Last edited by Mishawaka; May 10, 2016 at 11:36 PM.
Well look at that new looking cap I wonder if it is the right type and vented right. Might be something to look into. Did it come the same time as the new injectors? Would hate to see you flatten your tank.
Last edited by antfarmer2; May 11, 2016 at 12:03 AM.
Well look at that new looking cap I wonder if it is the right type and vented right. Might be something to look into. Did it come the same time as the new injectors?
Actually bought that shortly after I got the car about 1.5 years ago. I had the parts store look it up for and that's what they gave me. You think maybe they gave me the wrong one? I didn't have any problems til now but have always had a bit of a miss.
Actually bought that shortly after I got the car about 1.5 years ago. I had the parts store look it up for and that's what they gave me. You think maybe they gave me the wrong one? I didn't have any problems til now but have always had a bit of a miss.
Do not know but some have put the wrong cap on and flatten their tank on a long trip. Just something I read in here never saw it myself. But I sure would look into it to be sure.
Every parts guy makes a mistake from time to time, but there is not much worse than a parts vendor who makes one blunder after another. I don't know if that's the situation over there at FIC, but if it is, then I hope people say it loud and clear.
Every parts guy makes a mistake from time to time, but there is not much worse than a parts vendor who makes one blunder after another. I don't know if that's the situation over there at FIC, but if it is, then I hope people say it loud and clear.
I still think 93 came with 22 lbs and changed in 94 to 24 lbs. either way FIC is sending 24 lbs to try to fix it for him what else would you want them to do?
Last edited by antfarmer2; May 11, 2016 at 09:36 AM.
