Need help!!!
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on my 92, for the engine control you do not need the Tech-1 to reset the TPS idle value. here's my take on the shop manual's procedure. i start the engine with the throttle slightly open. this flares the engine to hopefully about 2-3K rpm. i keep it at that speed for about 5 seconds, then let go of the throttle. once the engine speed settles down to idle, i wait another 5 seconds and shut down completely. wait 10 seconds, and start the engine again. it should be idling normally now.as for the TPS reset for the ASR system, i have not found an alternate way of letting the computer learn the idle TPS value other than using the Tech-1.
Not a tuner but found this for you. Ant
Not a tuner but found this for you. Ant
Last edited by antfarmer2; May 13, 2016 at 09:31 PM.
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on my 92, for the engine control you do not need the Tech-1 to reset the TPS idle value. here's my take on the shop manual's procedure. i start the engine with the throttle slightly open. this flares the engine to hopefully about 2-3K rpm. i keep it at that speed for about 5 seconds, then let go of the throttle. once the engine speed settles down to idle, i wait another 5 seconds and shut down completely. wait 10 seconds, and start the engine again. it should be idling normally now.as for the TPS reset for the ASR system, i have not found an alternate way of letting the computer learn the idle TPS value other than using the Tech-1.
Not a tuner but found this for you. Ant
Not a tuner but found this for you. Ant
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Yea I'm changing out the t-stat, the car worked great around 205-221 range but the temp kept climbing to 239 and I started to get the symptoms all over again about loss of power and engine hesitation upon accelerating. On top of all that my brakes all of a sudden got soft and the pedal sank to the floor board and the car took a while to stop, and my asr/abs, and brake malfunction indicator lamp turned on.
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Is that by the digital I would guess it is more a plugged radiator. They are big vavuum cleaners you need to pull the top of the shroud off to see. I pulled the radiator to clean mine. Good time to pull the knock sensors and do a proper flush with your thermo. If your going to do it do it right. Knock torque is important 14 lbs I believe. I put in new. My fans come on at 228 and 238 and never got that hot. I would clean the connection on the temp sensor on the water pump first they can do some strange things.
Last edited by antfarmer2; May 14, 2016 at 06:04 AM.
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Is that by the digital I would guess it is more a plugged radiator. They are big vavuum cleaners you need to pull the top of the shroud off to see. I pulled the radiator to clean mine. Good time to pull the knock sensors and do a proper flush with your thermo. If your going to do it do it right. Knock torque is important 14 lbs I believe. I put in new. My fans come on at 228 and 238 and never got that hot. I would clean the connection on the temp sensor on the water pump first they can do some strange things.
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Well engine coolant is @ 193 with new t-stat in, damn service asr and abs light is solid and on. I try to do a burnout the engine hesitates as if it wants to die but if I stay on it, it eventually does do a burnout. I unplugged the tps engine idled a bit better, I could notice the distinction of idle. Those are the symptoms I'm experiencing right now
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Ok so I'm currently on the road pulled over to the side temp on the digital screen reads 230 my scanner 231 mechanical gauge is approaching 240, engine stumbling from a dead stop heard some backfire, o2s at idle are bouncing from 150 to 780mv. Should they be the same or different?
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Ok so I'm currently on the road pulled over to the side temp on the digital screen reads 230 my scanner 231 mechanical gauge is approaching 240, engine stumbling from a dead stop heard some backfire, o2s at idle are bouncing from 150 to 780mv. Should they be the same or different?
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From the outside moving the throttle I got 4.10v
I asked my wife to press the gas pedal I got 3.18v, but noticed that there's more before wot so the tps isn't bad so I'm assuming the throttle cable might be broken but that doesn't explain the hesitation, which I might have to do what you just told me ant farmer.
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It was on mine it bogged and farted. The o2s can set off the knocks. Mine never put a code out. I believe the knocks were fine but don't put back 20 year old parts. Plus the new ones come with the right dope. Torque is important 14 lbs I believe. Just pinch the connectors with your fingers. Orielys have the o2 sockets for a deposit use the short one. The 6 7mm screws in the front of the shroud are a pita. I used a flat ratchet wrench and el tape on some of them. Might as well put a fuel filter on too. If the tank is full take the line off. Best to take the fillter out the top. If you pull the knocks run a wire up there and turn your head and keep your mouth shut.
And for all getting ready to yell at me it is not tossing parts it is maintenance! !!!!!!!
And for all getting ready to yell at me it is not tossing parts it is maintenance! !!!!!!!
Last edited by antfarmer2; May 14, 2016 at 09:29 PM.
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Hey antfarmer, you think the lack of thermal grease on the icm would also be a cause that my engine stalls at high temp. I switched out the coil only but I didn't notice any grease between the icm and the plate it mounts on before I switched it out
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I thought I mentioned that in my first post to you.
Last edited by antfarmer2; May 14, 2016 at 10:07 PM.
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What would be the symptoms of malfunctioning icm, it has gitty up power during open loop and up until 205 degrees past that the engine stumbles loss of power. If the icm is or was going bad wouldn't it mess up or have those conditions from the beginning