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I had to install a new cruise control servo and now I do not understand how to adjust the cable. I have 4 steel ***** showing and I have tried to shorten and lengthen the amount of threaded rod shown but I have yet to see the throttle move at the throttle body. Which way tightens the cable, more threaded rod showing or less (inside the rubber grommet)?
Thanks, Jim
I'm not sure your going to see the throttle move, and even if you can, you still need some slack in the cable.
Increasing the length of the cable housing (sheath) is the same as shortening the cable itself, so the further you back out the cable sheath, the less slack in the cable. This would mean you need less of the threaded part showing to shorten (tighten) the cable.
Last edited by PatternDayTrader; Jun 5, 2016 at 04:09 PM.
I'm not sure your going to see the throttle move, and even if you can, you still need some slack in the cable.
Increasing the length of the cable housing (sheath) is the same as shortening the cable itself, so the further you back out the cable sheath, the less slack in the cable. This would mean you need less of the threaded part showing to shorten (tighten) the cable.
Have you tried to loosen up the cable (spin the bolt without the rubber washer toward the cable jacket) and NOT grab the first ball,and then adjust out until slack is taken up and put some slack back in so chain is a little loose. I know when we were doing the Cruise Control Recall in the VERY early C-4s that we would usually grab the 2nd or 3rd ball. also if your car is one with a traction control is every thing hooked up in there?
Have you tried to loosen up the cable and NOT grab the first ball, I know when we were doing the Cruise Control Recall in the VERY early C-4s that we would usually grab the 2nd or 3rd ball. also if your car is one with a traction control is every thing hooked up in there?
Are you saying you did that in an effort to shorten the cable ??? I would think that in this guys situation he should just put it back the way it was, although what your saying would sure shorten things up.
Are you saying you did that in an effort to shorten the cable ??? I would think that in this guys situation he should just put it back the way it was, although what your saying would sure shorten things up.
the way things come from the factory is always Preferred by all means, but the next question why are we leaving what was factory, with the recall the new cable had a couple of extra ball to give a little more adjustment room. now is his new Servo taller than the old one?
the way things come from the factory is always Preferred by all means, but the next question why are we leaving what was factory, with the recall the new cable had a couple of extra ball to give a little more adjustment room. now is his new Servo taller than the old one?
I couldn't speak to his situation with the servo beyond what ive already stated. I guess I'm not sure what your saying here either. Maybe your trying to say he should check his car for open recalls ?? Are you saying the new cable is longer than the original because its the updated part due to the previous recall ?? therefore he should use the second or third ball on the servo ?? That makes sense. Please clairify anyway.
So you guys think I should remove a ball? This servo does work but I can tell you that there is too much slack in the cable line because the speed will not hold on hills, up or down. Which way do I spin the nut/disc, clockwise or counter clockwise?
So you guys think I should remove a ball? This servo does work but I can tell you that there is too much slack in the cable line because the speed will not hold on hills, up or down. Which way do I spin the nut/disc, clockwise or counter clockwise?
Remove ***** not recommended (last resort) you should be able to grab down the line and leave excess hang. but before going really to far make sure that all connections are good if you have the traction control make sure that all the cables are connected.
it hits me a bit ODD that you are having a adjustment problem, it should have been a fairly straight forward loosen unhook replace and adjust. so what is different is the servo taller or did the other end of cable come loose?
Which way to spin nuts. if your standing with your Knees against the battery you want to spin the black washer nut Counter clockwise, then adj the other nut to lock adjustment.
So you guys think I should remove a ball? This servo does work but I can tell you that there is too much slack in the cable line because the speed will not hold on hills, up or down. Which way do I spin the nut/disc, clockwise or counter clockwise?
Ok first I don't have the shop manual, so theres that.
It seems to me looking at your photo that the nut on the far left (in the photo) is a lock nut. The hex/disc is part and parcel of the cable. I would loosen the locknut, then turn the hex clockwise so that it spins towards the end of the threaded portion of the cable body. Then tighten down the lock nut. This will take up slack in the cable, or tighten the cable or however you want to describe it. The opposite will loosen it or add slack...
Whatever happens here, there must be some slack in the cable when the throttle is closed, or it might just hold the throttle open .... that is never good.
I would add that it appears in the photo that there is quite a lot of cable adjustment available and therefore cutting off one of the ***** should not be required.
I would add that it appears in the photo that there is quite a lot of cable adjustment available and therefore cutting off one of the ***** should not be required.
That's what wanted to know. Spin the big nut/disc counter clockwise. I'll spin as far as possible. This a Cardone unit.
That's what wanted to know. Spin the big nut/disc counter clockwise. I'll spin as far as possible. This a Cardone unit.
No ! Clockwise if your trying to take up slack ... then tighten down the locknut.
Well ok it depends on your point of view ... How about this ... spin it towards the end of the threaded portion of the cable and away from the lock nut.
Last edited by PatternDayTrader; Jun 5, 2016 at 09:33 PM.
That's what wanted to know. Spin the big nut/disc counter clockwise. I'll spin as far as possible. This a Cardone unit.
I don't think your going to need to go as far as possible. I think your going to take up the slack much quicker than your expecting. Just watch it carefully as your tightening the locknut.
I would add that it appears in the photo that there is quite a lot of cable adjustment available and therefore cutting off one of the ***** should not be required.
unless something is truly different there should be no real need. We use to do it because there was something Different, New,Bracket,cable, new location or maybe the guy cutting chain making the recall kits was generous.
unless something is truly different there should be no real need. We use to do it because there was something Different, New,Bracket,cable, new location or maybe the guy cutting chain making the recall kits was generous.
Oh no doubt about it, if the bracket is new and the cable then anything is possible...
That's what wanted to know. Spin the big nut/disc counter clockwise. I'll spin as far as possible. This a Cardone unit.
If you've adjusted the cable as suggested by the FSM with KEY OFF I'd say you've got a situation that is the results of using any "REMAN" servo. You mention Cardone and I can't imagine a Cardone unit being anything other than ....
adjusting cruise control cable
unless something is truly different there should be no real need. We use to do it because there was something Different, New,Bracket,cable, new location or maybe the guy cutting chain making the recall kits was generous.
