When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ahhh, they DO mix and work. Is it "ideal"? Of course not. Can it be done, safely on public roads? Of course it CAN. An example of what "can't" be done would be mixing of DOT 3 or 4, with DOT 5. That is a mix that can't be done.
I'm curious as to where/how you came up w/the 290* figure...actually all your boiling points. My experience has shown me that those figures depend greatly on the brand of fluid.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Jul 12, 2016 at 02:05 PM.
Ahhh, they DO mix and work. Is it "ideal"? Of course not. Can it be done, safely on public roads? Of course it CAN. An example of what "can't" be done would be mixing of DOT 3 or 4, with DOT 5. That is a mix that can't be done.
I'm curious as to where/how you came up w/the 290* figure...actually all your boiling points. My experience has shown me that those figures depend greatly on the brand of fluid.
.
These figures came from the late 1990s when I was a Chrysler Corporate Technical Instructor.
Just to chime in because the thought crossed my slowing mind -- my 1984 Honda Sabre V65 required DOT4 in the cluthc and brakes. My 1986 Corvette, DOT3. It's not that they didn't know about it, just that it didn't matter. I think the Corvette could easily make temps higher than the Honda ever did.
*shrug* So I have DOT 3 and DOT 4 in my garage. Even though I don't have the bike any more.
While you can mix DOT3 and DOT4 fluids, it's not really a good idea to do so. The primary difference between the two fluids is the temperature where the fluid will boil in the system. Both DOT3 and DOT4 fluids by brand have temperature ranges for wet and dry boiling points that can vary as much as 50-100 degrees. DOT4 fluids will boil at a higher temperature compared to a DOT3 fluid. DOT4 fluids also tend to be more "hydroscopic" in that they can absorb moisture at a quicker rate.
I have been using ATE TYP200 DOT4 fluid in my autocross/track day car and it seems to work well (for me!!). This fluid has a wet boiling point of 392 degrees. By comparison, MOTUL 600 has a wet boiling point of 421 degrees (all values are Fahrenheit). A good DOT3 fluid like Castrol LMA has a wet boiling point of 311 degrees and the Ford HD Motorsports fluid has a 290 degree wet boiling point.
The factory fill for brake fluid in Corvettes has always been a DOT3 fluid. Which is fine for normal driving and even some "spirited" driving. But if the car gets aftermarket brake upgrades that will produce higher braking temps in the pads and rotors, or if the car sees a lot of autocross and track use, it's a very good idea to go with a DOT4 fluid. But that does mean a complete flush of the old DOT3 fluid and replace with a DOT4 fluid.
There are some cars that have DOT4 as a factory fill but they are typically very high performance cars like the "exotics".
Never heard something about dot4 ingredients that are different than dot3 and can cause at brake system rubber parts damage or corrosion?
Last edited by Christi@n; Jul 12, 2016 at 06:29 PM.
How about changing the brake fluid in the resevior with a turkey syringe once or twice a year rather than flushing the whole system?
No. Do you change the motor oil but leave the filter?
Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
That won't do a whole lot for the fluid that is down in the calipers. Better than nothing...but not good enough, IMO. How hard is it to bleed brakes?
If you spend the time to change the master fluid, spend a little more time and just bleed the whole system properly. Small price for getting a long life from your components, and peace of mind that the job is done right I do mine once every 2 years, which is fine considering I don't really push the car hard very often. The fluid has a medium color after 2 years but not dark.
All brake and clutch fluids in all my vehicles have been bled with Valvoline synthetic DOT4 brake fluid and I have never had any problems, regardless if there was DOT3 in there before. I will note here that it is extremely rare that I push my brake systems. I just bled the systems thoroughly with new synthetic DOT4 and called it a day. I can't see anything more than synthetic DOT4 would be needed unless you have a hardcore racing application, or just prefer to use exotic fluids in your street car.
Tom
The 401*F boiling point for DOT3 and the 446*F boiling point for DOT4 are the minimum dry boiling point temps in listed FMVSS 116.
There's an engineering term for the lowered boiling point when these fluids are mixed and I can't remember it.
Leland West Insurance Company (underwriters for enthusiasts) has a comprehensive brake fluid brand/type comparison chart on their website. www.lelandwest.com
Suzuki XS11 enthusiasts have a good bit of info on fluid types and usage listed their website also. www.xs11.com
Tom
The 401*F boiling point for DOT3 and the 446*F boiling point for DOT4 are the minimum dry boiling point temps in listed FMVSS 116.
There's an engineering term for the lowered boiling point when these fluids are mixed and I can't remember it.
Leland West Insurance Company (underwriters for enthusiasts) has a comprehensive brake fluid brand/type comparison chart on their website. www.lelandwest.com
Suzuki XS11 enthusiasts have a good bit of info on fluid types and usage listed their website also. www.xs11.com
Hope this helps a bit.
Jonathan.....
Awesome! Thanks for the links! I can't read them now...but will get into them tonight. I appreciate it.