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Replacing both the upper and lower ball joints on my 94' Coupe. Ran into a snag with the upper ball joints. The new ones are "Mevotech" brand from Rock Auto. I have the Mevotech tie rod ends with good success, so figured I would give this brand another go. Looks like the holes in the new ball joints don't line up with the factory rivet holes. Is this a brand thing? Should I return and go with Moog or ProForged? The supplied bolts are the correct length and fit the holes where the rivets were perfect. It is the same on both sides:
If it was mine, I'd exchange them for some that fit correctly. I would not hog out the holes to 'make' those work as it would weaken too much to be worth the risk.
In the process of doing this myself. Just ordered moog uppers, lowers and tie rod ends. Drilling those rivets out is fun!
Yes they are! I ended up using my harbor freight ball joint seperator tool. I just drilled the heads off the rivets and then used a small bolt to press each rivet out. Worked like a charm!!
As for the lower ball joints. They pressed out with ease using an "OTC" Brand ball joint tool. However, I could not get the new ones in using the same tool. The new ball joints would not go in straight using the tool. I have read about this in previous threads. I removed the lower control arms and will be taking them to a machine shop to have them pressed in properly.
While things are apart I am also going to replace the lower control arm bushings with poly. Also may swap out the upper shock mount bushings with poly but not sure haven't heard much feedback on how much they affect ride quality. Any thoughts on shaving down the front spring end pads for lowering the front a tad?
Yes they are! I ended up using my harbor freight ball joint seperator tool. I just drilled the heads off the rivets and then used a small bolt to press each rivet out. Worked like a charm!! As for the lower ball joints. They pressed out with ease using an "OTC" Brand ball joint tool. However, I could not get the new ones in using the same tool. The new ball joints would not go in straight using the tool. I have read about this in previous threads. I removed the lower control arms and will be taking them to a machine shop to have them pressed in properly. While things are apart I am also going to replace the lower control arm bushings with poly. Also may swap out the upper shock mount bushings with poly but not sure haven't heard much feedback on how much they affect ride quality. Any thoughts on shaving down the front spring end pads for lowering the front a tad?
I used that same BJ seperator. I had to grind a taper on the fork to fit on the lowers though. Otherwise it wouldn't go in far enough. Worked great. Hopefully mine will press in without issue. I redid my rear suspension a couple years ago with energy suspension poly bushings and have no complaints. As for lowering, can't help you there. I don't want mine any lower here in NY lol.
AGREED. you did not save any $$$ money. Now. the RA return. is going to cost you!!! exchange / purchase Moog parts.
Indeed!
edit- Cost me $5.00 to return. Yes, its a joke. Will probably never order from Rock Auto again. Their site is still a simple tool to find a part #. I just won't order from them anymore. Will try and do the WVZR-1 motto and keep it local as much as possible.
Did you try the old trick and put the ball joints in the freezer?
Maybe it will shrink them just enough to get started.
I sure did! Also tried anti seize on the ball joint taper as well. No dice. Maybe I'm stupid, I dunno. The machine shop could not get them to press in straight either and did not want to proceed as they felt they would damage my LCA's.
So the saga continues!!!
Luckily, it looks like Van Steel down in Largo is going to save my ****! Dan told me to drop by with my lower control arms and he will press in AC Delco ball joints which is what he recommends and has used on 70+ builds.
Last edited by TorchTarga94; Jul 11, 2016 at 06:29 PM.
I wouldn't be to hard on Rockauto. They do have a pretty wide selection of parts manufacturers to choose from. I've found it best to put it out to the forum for suggested parts manufacturers, or google reviews and make a decision. When in doubt go for AC Delco or Moog.
Last edited by Crossed Flags Fan; Jul 12, 2016 at 12:59 AM.
Rock Auto is a VERY good parts source overall.! select quality known brands. you must be careful. sometimes RA sells name parts under a private label. and they are CHEAP design imposters.
Lower control arms are sorted. The AC Delco lowers pressed right in. I called Proforged and they had no explanation why theirs would not fit. I do not have a micrometer (should get one) but they do appear to be too large in diamter. They refunded me fully so props to them!
Now on to the upper ball joints. I received the Moogs. All the holes line up perfectly! for some reason I can't tell if I have this assembled correctly so if someone that is familiar with Moog upper ball joints can look at this and tell me if I am right. I just have it mocked up at the moment. No upper gasket and no grease zerk.
Instructions Diagram:
I believe this is correct. Was just hoping someone that has installed these Moog uppers before could confirm for me. Thanks!
Update: Lower control arms are sorted. The AC Delco lowers pressed right in. I called Proforged and they had no explanation why theirs would not fit. I do not have a micrometer (should get one) but they do appear to be too large in diamter. They refunded me fully so props to them! Now on to the upper ball joints. I received the Moogs. All the holes line up perfectly! for some reason I can't tell if I have this assembled correctly so if someone that is familiar with Moog upper ball joints can look at this and tell me if I am right. I just have it mocked up at the moment. No upper gasket and no grease zerk. Instructions Diagram: I believe this is correct. Was just hoping someone that has installed these Moog uppers before could confirm for me. Thanks!
Just finished the driver side lastnight. Did the lower on the pass side this morning. I have to wait to do my upper since the box was missing the boot, flange and gasket! You are correct, the boot lip sits inside the flange.
Just finished the driver side lastnight. Did the lower on the pass side this morning. I have to wait to do my upper since the box was missing the boot, flange and gasket! You are correct, the boot lip sits inside the flange.
Thanks DT! My Moogs were missing the gaskets as well. Was going to call but I have some fel pro gasket paper i am going to make some real quick using the flange as a template.
Thanks DT! My Moogs were missing the gaskets as well. Was going to call but I have some fel pro gasket paper i am going to make some real quick using the flange as a template.
You did better than me. They tried to tell me it's the newer design that doesn't need those missing parts! Lol. New one is on its way.
Are you serious with the thread engagement on those nuts? 2 threads maybe? It is nice to see 1 thread above the nut and scary to see not fully engaged. The gasket is for galvanic corrosion steel on aluminum.
Are you serious with the thread engagement on those nuts? 2 threads maybe? It is nice to see 1 thread above the nut and scary to see not fully engaged. The gasket is for galvanic corrosion steel on aluminum.
Calm down bro. It's just mocked up. A wrench has not even touch those nuts. I just spun them in for the pic.
Also, doubt the gasket is for galvanic corrosion. The factory ball joint was on there for 22 years and 125,000 miles with no gasket. Its there to help seal the ball joint itself. Grease will fill the whole assembly.
Upper Ball Joints
