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After stopping all leaks I am on a 5000 mile change interval. I drive it a good amount. 5 quarts Kendal GT-1 (5/w 30) full syn and 1/2 bottle of STP.
Filter every other time.
No need to guess. It tells you exactly how far you can go. That is what I did with the Powerstroke. Sent them an oil sample at 5000 using 5W40 synthetic instead of 15W40 conventional and the OIC was about 6000 plus which is longer than 3000. That means I change diesel oil about half what I used to do. Less time but increased cost. My time is worth something so I went with the 5W40
I currently run Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic in every vehicle I own. The Ram and the Durango are changed every 7500, as are both of our turbo Jettas, The 2 Miatas and the Vette are slated for changes every 5000 miles.
I run OEM filters on all of my vehicles, buy them by the case from RockAuto….. which makes them very cheap!! Used oil goes to AutoZone here in town.
Wife picks up the oil at Wal-Mart when she is grocery shopping.
I use Quality synthetic oil and name brand filters on sale. I change my oil every 3000-4000 miles or at least once a year on every vehicle. I had Porsche and they said 15,000 miles between oil changes, no stinkin way would I let any gasoline powered engine go that long on any type of oil. I changed it myself at 5000 miles. Maybe I am throwing away good oil, but I can sleep better doing it. My lawn mower gets 30 weight non-detergent dinosaur juice.
I had my aircraft oil analyzed once a year and tried it on cars but too much of an expense for Harry Homeowner. I have the kits and mailers for testing but feel no need to know that much. If I had a fleet to keep moving I would see a value to it, most homeowners would probably contaminate their sample anyway without the right tools. My testing company wanted a sample drawn from the engine while running thru the dipstick but you need the right tools to do that without contamination.
After running a non-water based coolant for the past 15 years the company who makes it tests it for me for free. They want long range data to prove their coolant does not wear out or need to be replaced regularly I am happy to oblige them as it was easy to get a good clean sample of that. No corrosion in the cooling system. The coolant still works after close to 2 decades of usage and looks clean
Brake Fluid, Coolant, P.S. Fluid, Battery electrolyte levels, clutch hydraulic fluid, transmission fluid and rear differential fluids all need attention as well. We can't forget them...
Change it often and keep the car longer is my way of thinking.
I was told that the filter is the item picking up the containments, change that as soon as you can maybe at 3000. The oil it self Mobil 1 was just changed with the filter only, meaning empty the filter and add a couple of pints, half a quart depending on filter you use. I would only use a Mobil 1 filter just check out the testing they did on this NO1 filter brand. I have always felt the oil between my fingers and looked for sludge or color changes. Using Mobil 1 since 1992 i have never felt it had to be changed but did it any ways and with the filter The oil cooler was eliminated in the 1993 Corvette because of this oil.After you hit 70,000 miles use the high mileage Mobil 1 that i use in the Lexus and the VW it pays in the long run.
I had Porsche and they said 15,000 miles between oil changes, no stinkin way would I let any gasoline powered engine go that long on any type of oil. I changed it myself at 5000 miles. Maybe I am throwing away good oil, but I can sleep better doing it. My lawn mower gets 30 weight non-detergent dinosaur juice.
I had my aircraft oil analyzed once a year and tried it on cars but too much of an expense for Harry Homeowner. I have the kits and mailers for testing but feel no need to know that much. If I had a fleet to keep moving I would see a value to it, most homeowners would probably contaminate their sample anyway without the right tools. My testing company wanted a sample drawn from the engine while running thru the dipstick but you need the right tools to do that without contamination.
Brake Fluid, Coolant, P.S. Fluid, Battery electrolyte levels, clutch hydraulic fluid, transmission fluid and rear differential fluids all need attention as well. We can't forget them...
Change it often and keep the car longer is my way of thinking.
I don't understand why it is so difficult to verify and know instead of guessing. I know my 5W40 oil will last 6500 miles because I tested it. I didn't rely on hearsay and good luck.
How expensive is it? Blackstone is $28. It is a easy process. Drain oil when it is warm and stirred up which is the best way to drain it. A couple seconds after you take the drain plug out, catch sample. If that is too difficult, perhaps you should not be changing oil or doing a Pee test when required by the doctor.
We should not until you are done with the car.
I agree but without knowledge, all you are doing is guessing on the side of caution which may or may not be enough. If it is a $500 test, I understand the hesitancy. The test will either warn you of issues or save money.
Ill never understand the mystery on this.... (under normal use conditions) For me, its very simple. Dino oil & filter gets changed every 3000 miles or every 12 months.... Syn oil & filter gets changed every 5000 miles or every 12 months.....Use the name brand of oil & filter of your choice. Really not much more to it...
I run the oil in my truck until the light comes on... around 14000 miles. Its programmed for dino oil. Synthetic I get 16000 out of. That's with oil analysis mind you. I trust the engineers I work with a lot more than the guy at the local lube joint. Now on a carbed engine, every 3k. Too much fuel dilution. But any modern fuelinjected vehicle built in the last 30 years or so can go 5k on pretty much any oil.