well now that the fluid is clean and flushed - the problem persists

brake pedal holds, slowly goes down about an inch holds then another inch my foot applying constant heavy pressure

an abrupt stops can happen ok and a slow down stop as well - but the pedal does work it's way down

does that sound like master cylinder?

Sean

 

I have the same problem, no one wants to help us lol

 

There are a lot of smart people on the forum - I figure most are out enjoying their cars

did you go through the same with flushing the system?

I have dug around some more on the line and most things seem to point to the master cylinder - could also be bulging brake line - but I thought a stretch like that would be something you could see or feel? maybe?

at the moment mine do not feel urgent - (brakes urgent? ) - I have a fuel line I am going to take care of first and then I will get back after the brakes

 

Yes I flushed it, it helped a little master cylinder will be next weekend see if that fixes it, good luck

 

thanks - you as well - let me know how it goes

 

Master cylinder, bulging hose, or just a non-thorough bleed job. The bulging hose is probably the least likely. How about your vacuum booster? Could it be that it is intermittently leaking therefore intermittently helping you apply pressure? Have you tried the same things with the car off? Does the pedal still sink down? If you have an air compressor getting one of the harbor freight brake bleeding tools works awesome. I have been using mine for about 5 track seasons and have done countless bleeds and flushes with it and it never fails to provide a good pedal.
--Calvin

 

yes I get the same pedal fade with the car off - just curious - do you have an attachment you use for the compressor?

thanks

Sean

 

Definitely not the power booster then. I use the following tool:
http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-f...der-92924.html

It basically creates a vacuum by a venturi effect and sucks the old fluid out. I don't use the second tall skinny container at all, I just watch the fluid level in the master and keep it filled. You simply hook up the small plastic hose to the brake bleeder screw, start the flow of air by pulling and locking the trigger, open the bleeder screw and watch the fluid drain out. Don't worry so much about bubbles, as it sucks air in from around the bleeder screw as well. Just let it flow for a long enough period of time to flush however much you would like. Then close the bleeder screw with the hose still attached. This way it guarantees that it was under vacuum from beginning to end. Think of this as an assisted gravity bleed so it doesn't take hours. This takes about 5 minutes a wheel. A whole system flush will take you about 45 minutes or so. Don't let the container get too full, over about 2/3rds, as it will start to spray brake fluid mist out of the air exit for the compressor. This will run your compressor a lot. I have a 60 gallon compressor and it barely adds any psi while this is on, so it is almost constantly running. You may have to take small breaks after a while to let the compressor catch up if you have a smaller SCFM capability.
--Calvin

 

Thank You Calvin, I have the same issue as Sean does, when my pedal goes down so far will that make the abs light come on?

 

Probably a silly question but why not fill from the caliper and remove from the master? Seems like the air would rather go up than down.

 

Sounds like a bad master cylinder. When you press and the pedal fades and then stops, it's because it's internally leaking past the first stage of the dual master cylinder (one part controls the front brakes and the other the rear) then as you continue to apply pressure, the pedal sinks some more because it's leaking internally in the second stage as well.
This is all on the assumption that you've properly bled the brake system. Always start bleeding from the right rear, then left rear, right front then left front. Be sure to fill the master cylinder in between.
I've found using a vacuum pump to be the easiiest method. It helps if you have an assistant to pump the pedal for you but I've been able to do it using a board wedged between the seat and the pedal. If you have excessive wear on your brake pads, this can cause a problem with pedal position as well. Don't overlook the little things and good luck.

 

 

Make sure the proportional valve is in proper position.
Are there any red brake lights luminated on the dash?

 

They sell one that does it that way, as well. It is called the Phoenix brake bleeding system. It is pricey, and I have that one as well, but for brakes I prefer the suck through method. Easier and 100% successful. The Phoenix bleeder, however, is the only way I could get my clutch slave/master bled properly, as the bleed nipple is located on the bottom of the slave cylinder which is no good for bleeding "downward."

I have also used the pressure bleeders, Motive sells these, and they work about 50% of the time, but sometimes they can pump air into the system. I don't know why that happens in some cars and not in others. In one instance we did two identical cars (make/model/year) and one worked perfectly and the other was horrible. So I stick with the Harbor Freight bleeder - cheapest and works the best

 

yes - I can stop

bad master cylinder -

thanks everyone