OK I know the dana 36 is weak and wheel hop is bad, the sky is not falling LOL I don't know much about posi limited slip or w/e you wanna call it, but I have a question for those who do.


No for my question. I noticed that one of my tires has worn more than the other, drivers side is almost bald and pass is ok. When I walk out the car with min tire spin it feel like the pass side hops some. The rearend also kicks out some so I know both tires are spinning if I leave hard. Does any of this mean the clutches or w/e are going bad? 86 nonabused with 90k, changed the u-joints n diff fluid right when I got the car, used fluid with the LS additive in it like I've used on other gm rearends in the past.

Tires were off another car and they are old-ish drag radials so one could be just wearing more than the other. I just installed some DA rear shocks and set them kinda stiff to see if it helped with the hop feeling(not sure if it's really hop) and it didn't.

Never had a posi go out on me so figured I'd ask what symptoms if any when one does?

 

Check the "break away torque" required at each rear wheel. For D44 "Will/rklessdriver" mentions he does a clutch-pack and re-shim when its 75# or less. He mentions Spicer/Dana says 25# but I don't know that I've actually seen that in a Spicer/Dana manual but that number or close is mentioned I believe by nearly all OE's.

I tried to find some "quick specs" for a D30/D35 to compare and I didn't find anything real quick. D44 is discussed nearly everywhere, Vette, Viper, Jeep, FOMOCO, MOPAR so I'd think you'll find numbers if you search. I wouldn't worry about looking for #'s but just comparing "yours" side to side - less than 25# I'd say you've issues, a dramatic difference side to side you know you have issues.

 

When you say the rear end kicks out do you mean a slight feeling of going sideways as if you were spinning the rear tires or drifting in snow... if that feeling comes at minimum pressure on the gas pedal it could be the two bones on each side that run parallel to each other aka Trailing Arms . I snapped both on them on one side and any acceleration it would feel like the car was going sideways it was as If the rear tires were turning the car.

Check to make sure those are good and intact and no play in the bushings.

That Is What Started My Entire Rear Banski Kit $1100 latereverything is tight and fully adjustable.

 

Do you have spacers? I,ve got very bad experience with spacers.. Imo car don't grab well the road with them... Bad handling

I've removed them.... A new wheels alignement after removal.. And car was nice and smooth....

All camber n' caster values from stock are close 0.00". As matter of fact car this way have better response imo, soft on shock absorber and fast response.

Camber and caster regulation are available on rear end too. Are you sure you have them right on both rear left and rear right?

 

As far as i remember... Now that weare speaking about this.... When i've just purchased car i had a problem similar to your problem

Rear wheeels had not the same wearing from left to right,

 

Your basic posi both tires spin n it drifts out some. Yah some rod end ones are on my to-do-list but the rubbers looked in good shape when I replaced the trailing arm brackets.

 

I have 3/4" adapters and a smart strut kit, I just eyeballed(got my c3 perfect in a few tries) the settings last fall and one tire worn a bit more on the inside so I adjusted it some. Still it's only 500miles with these tires on the c4 rotated once at least. I bought a Fastrax camber gauge this last winter that I'm gonna use to set it proper when I put the newer drag radials off my c3 on.

 

If the drag radial plans are serious THEN I believe it maybe more important to do the "break away" comparisons and confirm the values. If you steadily use the "right foot" the "what you see" now is maybe even more reason to check. You mention 500 miles!!

 

Just changed to a set of normal tires(old fronts before front runners that are .5 narrow and shorter) and they spin less than the drag radials LOL. I noticed today the pass DR was wearing on the inside since I checked the other day and only drove it around about 50 miles last night. Maybe the DR are just at the right age to disintegrate.

I didn't check the breakaway because I didn't have time to hassle with the adapters and will do it next week when I put the newer set of DR off my 77 on the 86.

 

Update: I changed to some new/used M/T SS drag radials I stole form my other car a little bit ago and it stopped. When I swapped the wheels I looked at the old tires real good and one looked kinda funny(not flat almost like it had two raised lines around it) it was also was more worn but still some tread. So I'm thinking one was grabbing more than the other or one would grab, slip n grab.

 

You don't need any adapters to check the break away TQ of the Posi.

For tools you need a wheel chock, floor jack, TQ wrench and wheel lug socket. You can use a defecting beam TQ wrench or clicker type.... but a beam type is easier. You can also use a 36mm socket on the outer stub axel retaining nut instead of a lug stud but you will have to remove the cotter pin and locking plate beforehand.

The procedure to check the Posi Breakaway TQ is very simple and you repeat it for each side.

1. Block the front wheel so the car won't roll
2. Jack one rear tire up off the ground
3. Place the transmission in Neutral
4. Using the TQ wrench on a lug stud try and rotate the tire/wheel..... then watch the TQ wrench to see what TQ is indicated when the wheel begins turn. That's you "Breakaway TQ or the TQ the clutches in the Posi can hold before slipping.

With a clicker type TQ wrench you just set it to say 25FTLBS then try and turn the tire/wheel... if it clicks before it turns your good to 25FTLBS so move it to 35FTLBS and so on until you figure out where the "Breakaway TQ" is.

A note of caution when using a lug stud to check the Posi... I don't go above 90LBS for what should be an obvious reason... your TQing on a little 12mm stud there, it won't like it and 90FTLBS is a good strong Posi Unit.
Will

 

Thx, but I have hub/wheel centric wheel adapters on that won't let me check unless they are removed and I was in rush. I need to move my wheels out .80 and didn't want to use a spacer, so I used the adapters with ford lug pattern n my weld dual pattern wheels. edit: Plus if I remove the adapter I am adamant about driving a few miles n checking their torque, so wheels off/on/off/on and I don't like to use power cause in my experience it tears up the lugs n they rust.

I was gonna make an adapter to check my c3 since it doesn't have the center axle nut.

 

If you have wheel adapters that shouldn't make a difference I can think of.

 

The socket won't fit with them on

 

Use the socket you use to tighten your wheels. All you are trying to do is turn the wheels and measure the torque it takes to make them turn. It doesn't matter if you have a socket on the adapters or wheels.

 

I though it had to be centered or the reading would be off

 

It's plenty close enough. Your only 2.375" off the center and it's not enough extra leverage to make a good posi measure bad.

You don't even have to take the wheel/tire off.
Will