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So I've had the car for 3 days now... did a quick fix on a leaking hose (going into the throttle body), but really, if one is bad, the rest are probably not far away from leaking.
I looked the rest over carefully, some are bulging a bit near the clamps, some aren't. Should I replace all of them? Anything else I should replace while I'm doing this?
Car is a '93 40th Anniv. car, 100k miles, auto, and it runs great.
I can't find a single set of all the hoses I'll need, which means a) it's expensive buying them one by one and b) I'm not sure what to buy, there are a whole mess of 'em.
Is there a cross reference list somewhere of which hoses to buy? How should I go about this?
If you are going to replace one it's well worth it to replace all of the coolant system hoses. Check EBay for these hose kits. They are usually silicone. Also try and find the good made in Sweden hose clamps with the blue plastic. These will never loosen up or back off. Don't reuse the factory hose clamps.
If you look at the hoses, there should be a date stamped in white on the hose that will tell you how old it is. I would replace all the hoses. Rockauto has a good price on them as singles.
Note: there are several hoses that are attached to metal lines with a pressed fitting. You can't get these anymore, but and make them up by cutting off the clamp. Check out my old post...
I'm born and raised in Jersey and have been a Vette owner for many years and have never seen a throttle body freeze. Enjoy your Vette and all the best.
Last edited by Turbo Bob; Aug 16, 2016 at 03:02 PM.
OK, so no harm un bypassing the throttle body. Is the throttle body inlet/outlet the only difference between the 95 and pre-95 hose kit? it LOOKS like it, just making sure.
OK, so no harm un bypassing the throttle body. Is the throttle body inlet/outlet the only difference between the 95 and pre-95 hose kit? it LOOKS like it, just making sure.
I ordered the standard 1995 kit. Thanks for your help, all!
Now - what about the serpentine belt, and thermostat/water pump? If those all seem to be fine, should I leave them alone?
The car runs VERY cool when idling with the A/C on. When the car is stopped at a traffic light, the temp drops to what looks to me like "very low". probably about a quarter of the way up the scale.
So it seems all is working OK. I don't see any other leaks.
I ordered the standard 1995 kit. Thanks for your help, all!
Now - what about the serpentine belt, and thermostat/water pump? If those all seem to be fine, should I leave them alone?
The car runs VERY cool when idling with the A/C on. When the car is stopped at a traffic light, the temp drops to what looks to me like "very low". probably about a quarter of the way up the scale.
So it seems all is working OK. I don't see any other leaks.
When the A/C is engaged I believe a cooling fan comes on. Look at the gauge on the dash and compare it to the digital read out on the dash when you cycle through the gauges to coolant temp.
From who and what part #? COMPLETE is HOW COMPLETE? I don't know that I'd have "rushed" to this purchase.
Molded hoses that have conventional clamping properties are very few 5 - total I believe. The rest of the coolant hoses are purpose built using machine compressed short hoses and formed tube.
I believe if I were doing all I'd do the heater flow control valve also.
Now - what about the serpentine belt, and thermostat/water pump? If those all seem to be fine, should I leave them alone?
The car runs VERY cool when idling with the A/C on. When the car is stopped at a traffic light, the temp drops to what looks to me like "very low". probably about a quarter of the way up the scale.
It would be a good idea to remove the serp belt and carefully inspect the ribs for any cracking or wear at the edges. Can't hurt to replace it.
You should pretty much ignore the analog temp gauge and use the digital gauge. The digital gauge will be more accurate and will show temp changes faster than the analog gauge. When you say "very cool", what temp value does the digital gauge show? What is the coolant temperature when the engine is fully warmed up and cruising? Could be that a prior owner installed a thermostat with a lower temp opening.
C4's are designed to run at slightly higher coolant temps in order to reduce emissions. A "normal" coolant temp will be anywhere from 190 to 210.
Just went thru this my 94 c4 coupe lt1 all new hoses, 95 upper rad.to water pump and replaced tee in thermo housing to tank hose with 3/4 plastic union fitting, home depot,this deletes throtle body hoses,no need for this unless driveing at below freezeing temps,also flush complete system need new knock sensers to drain block,also did new belt and idler and tentioner pullys easy when top hose is off due to pullys being dry and roughf turning by hand,also removed rad and cleaned out fins,amazed amount of sand and junk in there now runs 188-190on hiway 200-210 in trafic,best thing I ever did to my ride good for another100,000if no opti problems.I did have to replase opti and water pump it had skip at idle and halfe throotle,but thats another deal.Good Luck.Bleed air out,fill block then new 180 thermostat,run with cap off at 2500rpm,keep tank full replace cap let idle and coolthen heat up and cool down 2-3 times you should be good.My good freind,master mech let me help him do this so I could learn.Where are you located?
Last edited by A Peter C4; Aug 16, 2016 at 10:01 PM.