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my car is 86 vette, donor injectors were 97camaro lt1. stock vette pressure from what I read is 40-45.. stock 86 injectors 22#, stock lt1 Camaro is 24#.. my car has headers and that's about it..
I wouldn't understand why a load issue is being diagnosed by people as an injector issue, but maybe that's my lack of knowledge...
ill call FIC tomorrow.. but if I were them im sure they'll say yeah you need um, spend a bunch of money with us...
just would seem odd if its an injector issue that itll rev perfectly not in gear.
IIRC, they were lower in the first couple of years of TPI. IDK for certain what they were. Injectors were also different.
IF the fuel delivery is wrong, the ECM might try to compensate for it. HOWEVER, it can only compensate in closed loop. If it, for whatever reason, falls out of closed loop, AFAIK, the program takes over which could be an issue.
I highly doubt it. I have sent injectors to them that they have found to be dirty and cleaned them for me. Sometimes I test them before and after to see. They just sold me an injector for another car that has 7 good and 1 bad. Bad one ohmed out good. They said it wouldn't stop leaking and I can blow into it. They could have sold me a few more too if they had lied about it.
Rev the motor and it has no load. In gear, it has load. Quite different. Besides, how do you know it will rev perfectly? You need to have sniffers and other gear to see what it is doing. It might rev fine to you but there could be all sorts of compensation in the background that you don't see.
my car is 86 vette, donor injectors were 97camaro lt1. stock vette pressure from what I read is 40-45.. stock 86 injectors 22#, stock lt1 Camaro is 24#.. my car has headers and that's about it..
I wouldn't understand why a load issue is being diagnosed by people as an injector issue, but maybe that's my lack of knowledge...
ill call FIC tomorrow.. but if I were them im sure they'll say yeah you need um, spend a bunch of money with us...
just would seem odd if its an injector issue that itll rev perfectly not in gear.
Jon is a stand up guy does not lie or steal and for under $200 you cannot beat the price.
called FIC, they are thinking that under load it is stalling because its just getting way to much fuel... so they reccommended i either go back to stock injectors, or get a tune... i was going to get a tune anyways after i got the car running right, so now its an excuse to get it done..
im skeptical about the injectors being my issue but they work with injectors all day long so im guessing they are smarter than I.
tune is ordered.. update to follow in the next week once i get the tune.
called FIC, they are thinking that under load it is stalling because its just getting way to much fuel... so they reccommended i either go back to stock injectors, or get a tune... i was going to get a tune anyways after i got the car running right, so now its an excuse to get it done..
im skeptical about the injectors being my issue but they work with injectors all day long so im guessing they are smarter than I.
tune is ordered.. update to follow in the next week once i get the tune.
Where are you getting the tune? Is it a dyno tune or a bunch of guesswork based off your mods?
Does it still have functioning cat converters? if so possibly restricted. The 24 can cause a computer default run not so great or "reconnect VSS mode". So you may want to check it out. Do you have access to a scanner and FSM? If you unplug O2 sensor how does it run? Your condition would be called "under load"as opposed to in gear. Restricted fuel filter? Have you driven car with fuel pressure gauge taped to windshield to see if pressure falls?
This should always be considered as a possible culprit, and one of your first test's. I agree with other's in that too large of an injector could cause a rich condition. i.e engine loss of power, but then you should have the tell tale signs of a "Rich" exhaust, Spark plug carbon fouling etc.
Also; testing your fuel pressure under a load could also be helpful in Diagnosing the problem.
I like to Exhaust all of the trouble shooting steps before jumping on the Parts Ban Wagon.
Here is a very simple test that can be performed with a simple vacuum gauge in order for you to test for a restricted exhaust. It may also indicate other possible anomalies at the same time.
thanks for the tip on that one, thats a great little trick.. I dont think that would be the case in this instance as it only does it under load. but ill give that a try cuz why not, ive got a mighty vac that i should be able to use for this.
I have a z28 that i suspect might have a plugged cat..so i will for sure be using this trick for that one.
minimal update.. so TPIS said they dont belive the injectors would be my cause. FIC said they could definately see the injector being my cause... i love getting completely different answers from trusted sources..
Guess I'll find out , cuz my Tune from PCM of NC is in the mail.. they tuned it for the larger injectors and headers i have. so at the very least ill gain some HP, and remove the injector question from the equation.. but heres hoping it fixes it.
well its got all new fuel pump, fulter, injectors off my lt1, so slightly higher lb/hr. fuel pressure is set at 42 at idle. if a completely mash the gas the pressure drops, but will go back up to 42 within a second or so ish... at idle/neutral.. engine runs through the rmp range exactly as it should... only does this under load...
Fuel pressure should go UP, when you "mash the gas". Any drop is a sign of a delivery problem.
EDIT...I might have been a little late to the game, on this post!
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Sep 1, 2016 at 11:18 AM.
unluss im wrong that would only apply on an old school with like 8psi and a mech driven fuel pump...
on a car with a fuel pressure regulator theres no way it will ever go up.. the regulator will open.
FYI: my car has a brand new fuel pump and filter.. cleaned tank etc..
At idle there is vacuum which lowers the fuel pressure. At WOT or if you remove the hose, the pressure should be whatever you set as max on the regulator
thanks for the tip on that one, thats a great little trick.. I dont think that would be the case in this instance as it only does it under load. but ill give that a try cuz why not, ive got a mighty vac that i should be able to use for this.
I have a z28 that i suspect might have a plugged cat..so i will for sure be using this trick for that one.
minimal update.. so TPIS said they dont belive the injectors would be my cause. FIC said they could definately see the injector being my cause... i love getting completely different answers from trusted sources..
Guess I'll find out , cuz my Tune from PCM of NC is in the mail.. they tuned it for the larger injectors and headers i have. so at the very least ill gain some HP, and remove the injector question from the equation.. but heres hoping it fixes it.
I would get the right injectors and get it running right first. The guessing tune might just keep you chasing your tail.
on a car with a fuel pressure regulator theres no way it will ever go up.. the regulator will open.
But there IS a way. A spring applies force to a sealed diaphragm. That sealed area has a nipple and is connected w/a hose to manifold vacuum. At idle, manifold vacuum is "pulling" against the spring, lowering fuel pressure. The instant you crack the throttle, vacuum drops...pressure should rise immediately.
Well i pulled the ecu and it already had a tune, as i expected.. swapped it out for the tune i just ordered. made no change in performance.
desert mike... vacuum trick worked .. and was able to diagnose a partial blockage in the cat.. that has been fixed. engine seems a bit "snappier" but still did not fix the issue.
OD unit is a mess. i cant turn it off, i hit the button it goes off then right bak on... and it seems to engage whenever it wants... it even tried to engage in first gear.. i do wonder if this could be my major problem... but i yanked the OD relay and hopefully that can take the OD out of the equation for the mean time.. still no change in performance...
the symptom is slightly changed.. in that while its doing its stumble/stall thing.. the gas pedal literally will act like cutoff switch. if i give it gas it will stall till it kills out.
had a snapon solus on the car.. and nothing is sticking out as not functioning improperly.
next ill be checking my grounds just to rule them out... and then look at Ignition controll module, or just a whole new distributor...
and the brake booster is leaking, but pinched the hose so thats out of the equation.. this vette is starting to get on my nerves..
sorry dude, completely disagree with your diagnosis, your just saying it with no thought process behind it, because its not stock...
its not acting like a car running rich or lean.. oh and the O2 sensor is toggling correctly.. its a complete cutout of the engine.. no knocking, no pinging.. etc etc.. just a complete cut out, absolutely no symptom of fuel injectors..
sorry dude, completely disagree with your diagnosis, your just saying it with no thought process behind it, because its not stock...
its not acting like a car running rich or lean.. oh and the O2 sensor is toggling correctly.. its a complete cutout of the engine.. no knocking, no pinging.. etc etc.. just a complete cut out, absolutely no symptom of fuel injectors..
Ok I will leave it alone I was just trying to help. And I have seen this when the wrong injectors are used. Best of luck to you.
called FIC, they are thinking that under load it is stalling because its just getting way to much fuel... so they reccommended i either go back to stock injectors, or get a tune... i was going to get a tune anyways after i got the car running right, so now its an excuse to get it done..
im skeptical about the injectors being my issue but they work with injectors all day long so im guessing they are smarter than I.
tune is ordered.. update to follow in the next week once i get the tune.
They know more than I do. But it is your car. How much is the new distributor you are tossing in it?
Last edited by antfarmer2; Sep 6, 2016 at 11:32 AM.
reman distributor is $80.. given it had the original and not expensive im gonna slap that in and a new set of wires on it, just to know its got new stuff...
new power booster ordered as well.
i think im going to ohm out the injectors tonight.. just to check..
does anyone have any thoughts on the OD unit? before now, the light just never came on, regardless of hitting the button or reaching temp. now with the new tune its finally coming on when the car reaches temp, in wonder if the hypertech tune maybe had this tuned out? but now i goosed it in first gear and accelleerated fairly smoothly, then the od shifted in, and the od light was blinking fast. i was like WTF (this has only happened once). then when driving in second/third..the od light just stayed on and woudlnt go off.. i hit the button and it went off for like 1/8 second then back on.. so i removed the od relay.. just to try and take it out of the bucking/stalling equation, make sense? leave it out till i get it resolved?
OH the fun of fixing a car that was sitting for who knows how many years...
Last edited by tomcamaro97; Sep 6, 2016 at 04:00 PM.
i think im going to ohm out the injectors tonight.. just to check.
What will that tell you? It just tells you the coil is ok. How much flow? Who knows. How good the spray pattern? Who knows? I can sell you my other injector that has good ohm tests. Won't hold fuel but it works great if you check the DVOM.
Put stock sized injectors back and see where it goes. The only thing that matters is what size it is right now. What is the stock size vs what the actual size