Yeah I'm almost ready to let it go. Pretty much everyone knows I just like to troll people who come here with a giant ego and nothing to back it up with. I think anyone following this thread realizes that the sellc clown show is entertainment only and not to be considered as problem solving advice. It was fun while it lasted but your right, it really is time to stop .....

 

Sure... Would a fancy photo make you feel more important?



Spend some money on a fan, who gives a d@mn if the timing is off. Only OP would know!

 

Yeah.. We're still waiting for your credentials....

It is time for you to stop kidding yourself.

 

Ah so your using the ignition map for a Porsche 911 with 3.2 litre flat six to defend your claims about advanced cam timing in a GM Y body ?? I guess I'm not seeing the relationship. Possibly because there isn't one.....

 

Only you'd be weird enough to imply changing the crank pulley (really pulley?) AFTER setting the distributor timing. That's just dumb.

I did explain how electronic timing is set...and monitored. And, you incorrectly spouted how (again changing cam timing AFTER electronic is set), the computer would magically compensate.

You are confusing electronic timing and cam timing JUST LIKE THE LINK I REFERRED YOU TO EARLY IN THIS THREAD.

If you post/ask anything else in this thread, I'm ignoring it. Since you keep attacking what you think is stupid, what does that say about you? Normally, we call it trolling.

Do you keep posting out of some false sense of pride? Are you really convinced you'll be seen as genius?

If so, you obviously NEED this thread more than I do.

 

Greg,
I doubt the advanced cam timing has anything to do with heat build-up at idle with the AC on. I have found these cars to be have very marginal cooling systems from the factory and larger radiators and more fan capacity really help to keep these cars cool. If the car stays cool at 25 mph with the AC on but heats up while stopped that points to not enough air moving through the radiator which means adding more fan capacity would help.

One point to consider is that even though you have the cam advanced from where it was recommended to be installed I am sure the valve closing position is retarded from the factory closing position. What this means is that the heat that is being created is not coming from the advanced cam position. The engine does not care where the camshaft centerline is located, what the engine cares about is the actual opening and closing position of the valves. I am sure the larger aftermarket cam even if it is installed advanced is opening and closing the valves both sooner and later then the stock positions when checked.

Take a look at you timing tables and make sure you do not have too much timing at idle, increased timing at idle can put more heat into the engine if you go too far.

FYI, Ignition timing is not related to cam timing as many of you have pointed out. Ignition timing is relative to TDC, because you need to fire the plug "X" many degrees ahead of TDC (depending on the operating conditions) to have the maximum cylinder pressure reached approximately 15 degrees after the the crankshaft swings past TDC.

 

This from a guy who doesn't even know if his cam timing is properly set.

 

Wow... What else is there to say? You are something else. I don't think you could even "fix" a sandwich! Better not quit your day job.

 

Hey Brian!

Yeah, it's true that a longer duration cam WOULD open/close both earlier AND later. OTOH, my dynamic compression IS higher than stock (according to that Paul Kelley VB software that may still be online). That's why I considered the question...though I clearly see it as a simple matter of: what point is compression going to cause enough heat to surpass factory cooling means.

There certainly are enough posters to support how borderline the bottom-breathers are...and I still think GM wouldn't have ponied up for dual fans on later models -- if it didn't help. We ALL KNOW that they don't pay for anything they don't have to.

Short of looking for KS activity, what other means would you suggest to determine "too much timing" on the lower rows of my table? Again, I'm near stock levels but idle at a one row higher -- where timing is advanced a few degrees. Based on the lack of KS counts, I had determined the fan should be upgraded. This thread was a quick idea that I undertook w/o enough thought.

I talked to a local armature shop to confirm what they did when rebuilding my alternator. He referred me to another nearby shop he thought was "the bomb". That "expert" had me thinking advanced cam timing/orientation was "bad" before I thought about it much. In short, I hung up and posted.

I think this thread suggests several contributing factors that increase heat production in my 383 build. And, I'm sure this thread confirmed compression -- versus any type of cam orientation -- would have been what I needed to consider.

Thanks for popping in. Hope things are going well with you!

 

WOW this turned into a rake fight!

 

I don't feel like this has been a fight at all. Instead, it seems like basically everyone posting in this thread is trying to get the emperor to realize he's wearing no clothes. Personally I think it's funny when somone tries to defend an indefensible position.

 

I am sure that by now, there is a multitude of people reading this who are still not sure as to who is right here! Maybe if the known experts here(WVZR-1, 383Vette, Tom400 - where are you) were to step up as bjankuski has and point out that, though SellC may very well be an excellent mechanic with qualifications, he is wrong on this one. Not everyone is an expert on EVERYTHING in their field. However, once a definite consensus is reached, most people are willing to re-evaluate their thinking. Remember, 50% of all doctors graduated at the bottom half of their class.

 

Thought I made it pretty clear back in post 26. 40 years+ in pro motorsports loads of wins at all levels.

 

I think Tom has been trying to tone things down slightly, at least recently, but he would have had a field day with this one .... Who knows, maybe he still will.

 

A few people -- including a link I provided to an engine builder -- have tried to straighten this guy out. What makes you think he'll believe ANYONE here? After 25+ years in the profession, I'm sure he thinks he's too smart to consider anything other than what's he's learned.

This is the only "hole" either. I took a quick look at another current thread he was in -- just to get a feel for whether he's "for real". In it he attributes the success of newer engines to their better, more complex computers. Even at my level, I know it's due to the changes in architecture. He also thinks the computer is more magical than it is.

Timing is too important an element in engine function....to be wrong after 25 years. That's why I made the comment I wouldn't use him as a mechanic (if he were an option in my city). Most people are smart enough to figure out who knows what they are talking about. You can also tell who's got an attitude and who's really helpful.

I'm not sure Tom COULD have a field-day because he wouldn't "get it".

Do I look "stupid" because I don't know where my timing set was installed? It was my request to be present when the builder put it together. He probably chose to exclude me to get it done faster IDK. It DEFINITELY was a mistake not to think of that detail for long enough that he forgot how he set it up. But that's what he's doing everyday.

I'm sure there is a way I could look for valve-lift and measure to figure it out. So far, it hasn't presented enough "problem" to dig back in and see. I think it's probably "only" 4-deg advanced but I wanted to cover the possibilities once it DID occur to me.

Being open-minded is a much better approach to living.

 

I agree. The OTHER thing I have to wonder about (with my builder) is how the RA balance was done. Back in 2011, I took the issue to Speedtalk.

I have a slight vibration that's been there since assembly. The builder removed weight from crank counterweights versus adding heavy metal. I wanted to make sure that's an acceptable means for building. There were at least two builders who said "Watch out...the bearings are GONNA fail". In short, they dissed the approach and said the bearings WOULD fail.

Of course, the builder laughed at the internet trolls who live on the forum....and said his circle track engines run high-rpms without bearing failure all the time.

On the OFF chance his technique wasn't the best, I opted to leave the motor as a "torque monster". During my process of learning/building, one thing pointed out was RPMs were the killer of cranks. I put 2 and 2 together and decided making power "down low" was the safest way to insure several thousand bucks didn't go down the drain.

So, I left it "as is" -- figuring it was the safe choice.

Despite that, I've held onto an HSR intake that I've had since the build. Part of me wants to tear it down, check/change/retard the timing, and rev it higher. But, that's not the part that "knows" how much trouble I might likely get in which a motor that spins higher and is more fun -- up top.

I guess I should also say that the 4-deg advance was selected for the specific purpose of using an HSR. Since an HSR would have LOTS more top-end, EA "designed in" a 4-deg bump in low-rpm performance to help maximize THAT intake for the street.

So...either way, 4-deg bump on the cam seemed like the way to stay.


EDIT: After mentioning Speedtalk's threat of bearing failure, I SHOULD point out it's made it 25k miles w/o problem.

 

This is my thought exactly. When a purported "professional" makes a blunder of this magnitude, you pretty much have to question basically every claim that person makes.

 

We need a moderator to close this thread. This has gotten so far off what the OP asked now. This has gotten to a user blabbering he's better then everyone. Let's rename this to Sellc forum.....

 

Would someone please pull the plug on this troll SELLC

I can easily blow his resume into the weeds yet not even worth the effort.
For the easy low hanging fruit. Has this blowhard ever had an article about him and what he does in Race Engine Technology? How many US patents on EFI controls and parts Done design work for GM AC Rochester for a new cylinder head, done work with Avco- Lycoming or design work with Exxon-Mobil not to mention 13 world speed records cars and bikes, parts (induction systems) that won the 24 hours of Daytona multiple times in a row manufacturers win with Ford or can call engine shops for the top tier of NASCAR and happy to hear from you? The average car I wrench or tune is 850k to 2.7 million so in a word shut the F'n up and wrench the street beaters.

The list goes much longer and only the highlights of a few things. I have found those who pound their chest screaming how incompetent those around them are either very insecure or very busy deflecting attention on to other so not one questions their ability.

I have been here a long time and offered info quietly and as polite as possible but this dipstick licker is a bit too much to bite my tongue and tolerate. SELLC just crawl back into the troll hole.

 

This is an absolute jewel ...