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1994 c4 base What is best procedure to change /flush brake fluid without createing abs problems?I beleive fluid is original.Thanks in advance for help here.Last fluid to change,all others done but brakes.
Last edited by A Peter C4; Sep 9, 2016 at 12:08 AM.
Just keep the master filled while bleeding. If you get any air in it you will be sorry. I would suck out the master with a turkey baster first to get as much crap out as you can.
Last edited by antfarmer2; Sep 9, 2016 at 09:07 AM.
Just keep the master filled while bleeding. If you get any air in it you will be sorry. I would suck out the master with a turkey baster first to get as much crap out as you can.
The small 1-2 gallon shop vacs use a smaller diameter hose and are the exact size to fit the master cylinder diameter. Cleans it out good!
I use a Motive Products tool. It pushes fresh fluid into the reservoir. Unless you really run the main tank dry, there is little chance of a air bubble in the lines. Seeing as I have 5 vehicles and do this every other year, the tool is an investment. Most people like to believe it is a lifetime issue and fill it every so often. MB recommends the flush every 2 years which is why I bought the tool. To do it on all my vehicles.
These guys gave several good techniques. I'll add this: before starting, compress all the caliper pistons fully. This will push most contaminated brake fluid from the caliper, allowing you to extract that too, during bleeding. Otherwise, it can sit in the caliper relatively undiluted by the new fluid.
Anyway, when you're done, pump the pedal and that will push your pistons back out to the rotor, simultaneously filling the caliper bores w/new, fresh fluid.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Sep 9, 2016 at 02:58 PM.
I'd suggest stirring up the contents of the master cylinder (probably sediment at the bottom) and suck that out, then refill and stir/suck again... when the master is fully clean, then proceed with the bleeding however you prefer to do it.
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Earls makes a bleeder with check ball and spring for one person brake bleeding.
Simply crack open this bleeder and press the brake pedal or mini-vac to draw fluid from the res.
I run this procedure once a year. And replace the res fluid at each oil change.
I have used a homemade pressure bleeder on other vehicles but when I got the C4, I treated myself to a set of Speedbleeders - http://www.speedbleeder.com/
Ak, is this the unit that pushes the fluid from the callipers up into the res? That always made. sense to me as it would be easier for air to go up than down. if this is it, do you like it?
Originally Posted by aklim
I use a Motive Products tool. It pushes fresh fluid into the reservoir. Unless you really run the main tank dry, there is little chance of a air bubble in the lines. Seeing as I have 5 vehicles and do this every other year, the tool is an investment. Most people like to believe it is a lifetime issue and fill it every so often. MB recommends the flush every 2 years which is why I bought the tool. To do it on all my vehicles.
Ak, is this the unit that pushes the fluid from the callipers up into the res? That always made. sense to me as it would be easier for air to go up than down. if this is it, do you like it?
Wouldn't make sense. It would push crud from the calipers to the ABS and master cylinder. Kinda why you usually open the bleeder screws when you are inserting new pads. You want the dirty crud there to be pushed out.
You suck the fluid out of the reservoir, fill with fresh fluid, strap this thing onto the reservoir and pump the air pump. That pressurizes fluid from the tank into the reservoir and the bubbles in the reservoir go up to the tank. Fresh fluid pressurizes the line. You open the bleeder and as long as there is air pressure in the tank, fluid will be pushed out into the reservoir and into the calipers. When you are done, close off the bleeder and move on to the next.