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hate to bring the ld thread up but im going to start acquiring parts for this job over the summer. but before i do i have a couple questions.
The egr is under the TPI right? will the crate motor be fine with an EGR (or should i delete)
is there any issue with it being deleted, i dont want to stare at a check engine light all the time :P.
Headers are the next issue, i dont believe my stock shorties will fit with the fast burn heads, is there a certain brand i should be looking at like off of an LT1?
can i use my stock injectors or should i be getting different injectors and rails?
im not trying to make it reach the HP it was dynoed at. but still want it to run properly and make the car a bit more unique for me. plus its a fun project for me and the old man to tinker with this coming winter
ill start a build thread when it starts to happen
EGR pipe should run from the passenger side exhaust manifold to just beside the distributor at the back of the intake manifold on that side. If you buy headers without it, then fab up a little plate to block off the port on the intake manifold.
EGR removal will require the Code 32 and related EGR function to be removed from the chip when it is done, simple for the tuner to do that for you. No real downside to removing it entirely for your engine.
Do a search for anyone who has used Fastburns and see how they fit with headers before you pick the header brand.
For that engine, you will probably be going with bigger injectors, but it's going to depend on exactly what the combination is as to what size. I'd talk to the chip tuner. The rails are fine.
Change your profile to include your location. Some members might have a person who can dyno tune it for you. I am running 42pph injectors doing about 420 at the wheels if that helps you out. Regardless, you should be able to ask the tuner what he likes best for the combination. Also you probably will need to rebuild your transmission sooner or later if it is auto. Not sure about stick. Rear end will not hold up for long if it is an auto since they have the D36. I'd suggest finding the dyno tuner first and asking him what he recommends for a cam, intake, etc, etc.
trans has 40,000kms on it since rebuild but it will be going in to get a look over, yes it is an auto. the car is just a daily driver with the occasional fun spurt, nothing serious no racing or anything like that.
i will ask the fellow thats tuned all my vehicles and see what he know and recommends
trans has 40,000kms on it since rebuild but it will be going in to get a look over, yes it is an auto. the car is just a daily driver with the occasional fun spurt, nothing serious no racing or anything like that.
i will ask the fellow thats tuned all my vehicles and see what he know and recommends
I had a freshly rebuilt GM 700R4 in my F-body. Put in an LPE 383 and John personally warned me that the trans was on the way out. I insisted it was just rebuilt before the car came here. His answer was basically "Ok. 1 year tops". We didn't make 9 months with me being careful. I was getting used to the driving of the car with 420 RWHP so no racing either. Daily driver. D36 broke while I was sourcing a D44. I can't remember if it was 1 or 2 teeth off the ring gear.
Does he dyno tune or how does he do it? Dyno with some driving is best of course. other than that, I want someone who will adjust it based off datalogging. The "Mail Order" tunes are basically "Guess a tune", IMO.
ok ill get the trans to have a better look, he gets people to take you for a drive while he watches and tunes and adjusts things (this is what he has done with all my trucks) couple wide open pulls etc etc. he is a Gm master technician as well that works at my local chevy dealership
ill also read up on headers, my biggest concern was the egr (which is no longer a concern) and now the injectors as fuel injection is not something i play with a whole lot on the older stuff. racecar is carbed so its really easy to work on :P
im assuming this motor is going to be chocked down, it was dynoed with a carb at 424hp at the crank, so im assuming it will probably fall below the 400 mark a ways with the fuel injection setup
Last edited by leadfoot33; Apr 5, 2017 at 02:04 PM.
ok ill get the trans to have a better look, he gets people to take you for a drive while he watches and tunes and adjusts things (this is what he has done with all my trucks) couple wide open pulls etc etc. he is a Gm master technician as well that works at my local chevy dealership
I doubt tuning of chips is a GM sanctioned activity. Still, I guess I am more comfortable with a dyno telling me we maxed out the power and other sensors hooked up to read data streams and see gas output, etc. When we tuned for power, that is what we did. Set a base tune, increase, increase, increase till it leveled off and went downwards. After that, we went back and settled that one.
ill also read up on headers, my biggest concern was the egr (which is no longer a concern) and now the injectors as fuel injection is not something i play with a whole lot on the older stuff. racecar is carbed so its really easy to work on :P
im assuming this motor is going to be chocked down, it was dynoed with a carb at 424hp at the crank, so im assuming it will probably fall below the 400 mark a ways with the fuel injection setup
Fuel injection doesn't really make the power. That is what the combination does. It allows you to make more precise metering as opposed to a carb that just gives you one jet for all. Not sure how to better explain it but I'd think of it being able to compensate for far more conditions than a carb. As to the injector size, use the calculator HERE. Assuming stock pressure, For 450 HP, you need 36pph injectors. Give FIC a call and they can sell you a set. Preferably reman. Maybe 32 might work?
If you choke it with a lousy intake and crummy exhaust manifolds, sure.
I doubt tuning of chips is a GM sanctioned activity. Still, I guess I am more comfortable with a dyno telling me we maxed out the power and other sensors hooked up to read data streams and see gas output, etc. When we tuned for power, that is what we did. Set a base tune, increase, increase, increase till it leveled off and went downwards. After that, we went back and settled that one.
No the tuning is his side business. He just happens to be a gm master tech as well. I know what your saying that way does work best but noone in my town has that hes the only one that does any kind of local tuning. I figured him being in the car was better than a boxed tune or somthing like that. It will be w fun project and i will have tonnes of questions. Me and my paps were just talking about it last night and i thought of these few things and wondered if it would be cheaper to slap a better cam and get head work done to the stock motor. Vs trying to find parts for the crate. But it seems the crate is the way to go unless you folks think the stock heads with work done and stock intake with a cam would work well.
No the tuning is his side business. He just happens to be a gm master tech as well. I know what your saying that way does work best but noone in my town has that hes the only one that does any kind of local tuning. I figured him being in the car was better than a boxed tune or somthing like that. It will be w fun project and i will have tonnes of questions. Me and my paps were just talking about it last night and i thought of these few things and wondered if it would be cheaper to slap a better cam and get head work done to the stock motor. Vs trying to find parts for the crate. But it seems the crate is the way to go unless you folks think the stock heads with work done and stock intake with a cam would work well.
My tuner was 6 hours away in the Twin Cities, MN. Before that, it was Lingenfelter when he was on this side of the earth.
My tuner was 6 hours away in the Twin Cities, MN. Before that, it was Lingenfelter when he was on this side of the earth.
might be somthing i have to look into a bit further and talk with a few people. Who does tuning for these cars that is knowledgable about them and could give me some more guidance. I love lesrning about this stuff and the more i know the better prepared ill be for the job.
might be somthing i have to look into a bit further and talk with a few people. Who does tuning for these cars that is knowledgable about them and could give me some more guidance. I love lesrning about this stuff and the more i know the better prepared ill be for the job.
Some people like to read up and learn how to do it. IOW, trial and error at personal expense. I am the sort that doesn't want to practice and perfect something that is a "one off" deal. I got my car done and haven't needed a tune since it can either adjust slightly (your's more since it is MAF) and I haven't really dumped anything major into it. My thought is that if you are constantly changing heads and cams and intakes like you would on a race team, it certainly makes sense to spend the time and money to learn how to do it properly. OTOH, the other guy has done the homework so maybe I'll pay him and spend less than I would having to learn it myself. Sure, you can feel if it is rough or "ok" but what does "ok" mean? SOTP dyno is kinda worthless to me at best and misleading at worst. So either I will spend the time and money (dyno sessions, burning equipment) to do it right or I get it done right. Your call.
i do know a fellow with a dyno he is 8 hrs away but i dont know when he will be available again as he had a freak accident happen to him, he also coincidentaly rebuilt this crate motor 2 years (this crate has been balanced and blue printed all with the stock gm parts)
ill do some more reading on the headers and ill see if the tuner in town knows much about the injectors for this thing and ill try the engine shop i know.
ill do some more reading on the headers and ill see if the tuner in town knows much about the injectors for this thing and ill try the engine shop i know.
lots of reading and thinking to do :P
any and all opinions are welcome here
I like the TPIS headers. I don't use expensive plugs (relatively) because I change cap and rotor and plugs every year. Coated helps corrosion. Without the AIR stuff, it is very easy to get to all plugs even #6 and especially #8.
If you need larger injectors, it is in the equation and he should be able to adjust the injector constant in the program.
ill check TPIS out, i really appreciate the info, i just got the old girl out 2 days ago nice to get out of the truck back into the car :p
I know that my F-body had an Accel Tri-Y header but I don't think LPE makes or sells them anymore. Those dropped in nicely. Hookers were a PITA to get in and access was more tricky. I don't have personal experience with Melrose and nobody seems to say whether it is hard to get stuff in or not. Someone said it needs to be ground down to fit. IDK.
TPiS claims 24 lbs/hr is good up to 450 HP, seems like that'd be pushing the limit though. They have 30 lbs/hr injectors for the same price that should be great.
TPiS claims 24 lbs/hr is good up to 450 HP, seems like that'd be pushing the limit though. They have 30 lbs/hr injectors for the same price that should be great.
$425 though. Kinda pricy when you can get reman for $239
No doubt, I totally agree FIC is likely a better place to get them (I have a set myself). I was just looking for what other places recommended for his expected HP output.
Jon is a good guy and has helped me along the way with my C4. :-D