Did you do ALL of the o2s?

 

While the hood is up, tighten the AC support bracket.


Awesome project!

 

Upstream pre cat were changed by po. Downstream look original.

 

Videoed the car running after taking it for a spin. No codes after clearing then turned off and on and ran around the neighbor hood still not codes. I did change gas caps.


my youtube name is indiomonk123

 

Thanks for noticing. I had to take that off when I pulled plug #3 It is all back on snug now.

 

So you have very sensitive sensors that ajust the fuel mismatched I always do them together. Do not know if that is causing your misfire but they do not always set a code.

 

Aft O2 sensors have nothing to do with fueling. Their single purpose is to monitor cat efficiency for OBD II.

All closed loop fueling utilizes the front sensors.

 

Ran around the neighborhood after work. No MIL Code (Check Engine Light). Picked up a loan a tool scanner at Autozone. According to EPA a 96 OBD2 can pass with two not ready codes. I think I am saying that right.

Anyways I posted pics of the scan. I am going to run it in the morning and if it still has no MIL on I might take it to the inspection station and tell them to NOT pull on the wheel or adjust the tilt. I will cross my fingers and hope for the best.

We will see what tomorrow brings.

 

Bring it out to me it will pass here. Just use my address.

 

Thank you thank you thank you very much.

 

Any update on the cooling system mud issue? Or is that next?

 

Update on work down this weekend. Had to work this weekend so not as much done as i would have liked. I did tear out the 20 year old tint. That was a bear, even with a steamer.

I changed some vacuum hoses near the front driver side canister but not attached to the canister. Its a weird hose I think maybe for climate control or something. I need to look in the FSM.
I also took out spark plug wire number 3 since I am now getting the p0303 code. Wow it is HARD as you know what to take this crap off. I had to take off the belt and tension pulley just to get that off.
I am not familiar with Ohms law but I did my best and see that the wire which is a 7mm diameter has a 1.95 ohms I am assuming it is 1,900 ohms, and checked on 20k ohm setting. I think this is the issue. I would like some of your advice on this. Should I get the stock wires and go with the OEM? I think they are 8mm. Cost would be $130 or so for the set.

The other thing is when jacking the car up and inspecting from underneath it does look like this engine has been rebuilt. Freeze plugs new new paint on block etc. New starter new hoses ALL new O2 sensors.

Oh well. I hope I can just change this wire and that's it.

Any advice would be appreciated. Oh, someone asked about those white specks in the engine bay. I thought it was because they had it detailed and the buffer put wax on the engine but guess what! It is from the hoses not being tightened so coolant was spraying when pressure built up. I also thought the cooling system was toast but looking at everything it looks fine. I was kind of scared because of the orange looking coolant with the dirt on the cap but after looking more closely I think the cooling system is fine.

I just want to say .. if you ever changed the wires on an LT1 or LT4, I salute you. It is a BEAR and I just took off ONE!

 

I bought a set of wires for my LT4, only to find out that just the coil wire was original and the other 8 wires were pretty new. This means I have a box of 8 brand new wires. You are welcome to have one you need for free, and look at my LT4, but you will have to drive up to me in Anna!

 

Definitely! I will PM you to see when you are free. I need to hear your LT4 to see if it sounds like mine. I am going to go through this FSM and try and do the diagnostics by the book instead of guessing.

Thanks!

 

That vacuum line in the fifth picture is toast.

 

Yes I changed that also. It is at the very front near driver side Headlight near that canister ball. It does not hook up to the ball but is for something different. I do not know what.

I have to find it in the FSM.

I also think the resistance is okay on the plug wire #3 but when i move it around it OL (open Loops) so I think it is bad. I am going to change it and update when I do. Wish me luck!

 

This is a pic after I changed the driver side wires.

This is a pic of before I changed ..see where the wires go straight down into the manifold instead of towards the front underneath the AC Compressor?


Not the greatest pics but here is what I found out after testing Sparkplug wire number 3 and finding out it was bad. It looks like someone did not route the driver side plugs correctly. They went in touching the exhaust manifolds instead of going under neath the AC Compressor and Alternator.


So i went ahead and ordered new wires and changed out all of them on the drivers side! It seems to run better and I cleared the codes. So now I have to drive it to make sure the codes don't come back and then hopefully go for an inspection, and hope they don't ding me on the steering column being loose/wobbly.



Thanks!

 

Slip the guy a $20 when you take it in and they will pass it lol

 

No, tape a $100 bill to the air cleaner lid and come back later; oh no, I really meant to say don't ever tape a $100 bill to the air cleaner lid; and on a C4 would anyone ever find it anyway?

 

Here is the update since it has been a few weeks.

I decided to use the FSM and trouble shoot. I purchased a Spark Tester. The OTC one and not the inline one. This is the one that supposedly does not give a false positive. I checked spark of Cylinder 3 wire that I changed (Changed all driver side wires) yes I had spark but it was an Orange yellow. I was expecting white/blueish spark.
I also pulled Plug number 1 and it looked a little fouled and the PUCK was off. These are the AC Delco 41-943 that apparently had a common problem of the pucks falling off. So I went ahead and ordered new plugs before proceeding. I have a feeling it is the opti but I want to make sure I do all testing before that point and since the plug is bad I might as well change all of them. I also started to hear a vacuum leak at the Brake Booster so I changed the grommet. I was at Autozone in the HELP products $4.99 .
First Pic is the Brake Booster Vacuum line check valve that I had to change
2nd pic is the fouled spark plug #1 and perfect spark plug #3 (Misfire p0303) The reason I think it is an opti issue is the spark is orange and not white or blue. I am going to do more testing and see what happens. when the new plugs come in since I changed the driver side wires I might as well change the passenger side wires and coil wire. The coil wire does not seem to be routed right either. I have also bought that condiut wire covers to put on the spark plug wires like the OEM from factory did.

Wish me luck!
[ATTACH][/ATTACH]