When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
First just test if it cranks and no start shoot some fluid in it then if it fires it is fuel related. If not most likely spark. Then I would test the icm and coil. Then replace if needed. Sorry about my butt sniffing troll but he is right yours does not have a opti. Sorry I do get some threads mixed up. And checking your temp sensor and connections.
I REALLY don't like ether so if he is going to do that, he better be REAL careful not to get carried away
To be good about the temp sensor, I would suggest he get a scanner and see what the ECM sees for a temperature and hit the sensor with an infra red gun to see what the temp is vs what the ECM sees. Do this at different points.
basically, check fuel delivery (simple $20 fuel pressure tester is all that is required), check ignition (gets a bit more complicated but as said up post, simply removing the dizzy components and taking them in for test would work. note that when testing the IGM, take yourself a hair dryer and extension cord and hit it with the heat as you are testing it. like plug it into the wall and blow hot air on it so it simulates heating up. these electrical connections can crap out and begin failing under heated conditions only). edit: you don't want to use a heat gun here....and you don't want to melt it...you are just trying to simulate the heat while running.
IIRC, Autozone has them for loan. I bought mine. Ignition is easy to check. Take a new plug and new wire and when it ***** off, you connect the plug and wire to the cap and try to crank. If the flame isn't blue, you have an issue.
Edit. I am not sure how to check this on the big cap distributor since I don't have one. In the small cap, it is easy to disconnect and plug the wire into each terminal.
IIRC, Autozone has them for loan. I bought mine. Ignition is easy to check. Take a new plug and new wire and when it ***** off, you connect the plug and wire to the cap and try to crank. If the flame isn't blue, you have an issue.
Edit. I am not sure how to check this on the big cap distributor since I don't have one. In the small cap, it is easy to disconnect and plug the wire into each terminal.
thats smart.
basically drive it until the problem happens and the put your known good wire and plug onto one of the dizzy terminals and watch the spark plug spark as you turn it over. very smart thanks for that tip.
I'm not a big fan of codes simply because this ECM is rather primitive and doesn't always throw a code but it is a decent place to start. Maybe better if he owns a scanner.
As to his opti, I got $50 says that if he is stock, his opti is missing.
basically drive it until the problem happens and the put your known good wire and plug onto one of the dizzy terminals and watch the spark plug spark as you turn it over. very smart thanks for that tip.
Can you elaborate on how YOU would do it? I have only seen the big cap unit once and it went with the motor. If possible I would like to use a known good plug wire instead of what he has since it could be leaking.
I suppose I would also test the plug wires by spraying a fine mist of water AROUND them in a dark area so I could see if there is any current leaks.
Current update on the 1990 Corvette post on 10-18-2016. The vette was placed in storage (live in Michigan) and over the winter I did the following:
Replaced the coil, Ignition Control Module, rotor and distributor Cap. Also replaced the fuel pump and sending unit because my gas gauge has not worked for several years. Started the car and ran it a while and it purred. Well I drove the car from our cottage in ******* Michigan and I got down the highway 40 miles before the car died, wouldn't start and we had AAA tow it 120 miles to our home in Lansing. The car would crank but it acted like it wasn't getting fuel. Sue enough, the car cooled down after its 120 mile ride on the flat bed wrecker and started. It's sittin in the garage until I can get some ideas on what to do next. HELP!!
Last edited by lovmy90vette; Jun 13, 2017 at 11:12 PM.
Run it till it is hot and dies. Rap the ECM a bit and see if it helps. Night before, take a frozen ice pack, the blue kind and freeze it. When the rap fails, put the ice pack on it and see if that helps.
Current update on the 1990 Corvette post on 10-18-2016. The vette was placed in storage (live in Michigan) and over the winter I did the following:
Replaced the coil, Ignition Control Module, rotor and distributor Cap. Also replaced the fuel pump and sending unit because my gas guage has not worked for several years. Started the car and ran it a while and it purred. Well I drove the car from our cottage in ******* Michigan and I got down the highway 40 miles before the car died, wouldn't start and we had AAA tow it 120 miles to our home in Lansing. The car would crank but it acted like it wasn't getting fuel. Sue enough, the car cooled down after its 120 mile ride on the flat bed wrecker and started. It's sittin in the garage until I can get some ideas on what to do next. HELP!!
My car had the same problem. How old are your fuel injectors? One failure mode is heat-related shorting in the injector coils. I chased this problem in my car (89) for a while until I correctly diagnosed it. A new set of injectors solved it. If you have access to a multimeter, I would measure the resistance of your injectors when cold, then run the engine till it stalls (at home), then re-measure. I'll bet you have one (or more) that are shorting out. One shorted injector will kill the entire bank, since they are in parallel.
Steve
Last edited by NavAir; Jun 13, 2017 at 11:35 PM.
Reason: Clarity
My car had the same problem. How old are your fuel injectors? One failure mode is heat-related shorting. I chased this problem in my car (89) for a while till I correctly diagnosed it.
Steve
They are probably Multecs and belong in the trash but even a fan of Multecs like me has a hard time believing all 8 fail suddenly and wake up suddenly. If it had run rough, fair enough. I did have issues when the driver bank died but it still ran pig rich because the O2 reported a lean condition.
They are probably Multecs and belong in the trash but even a fan of Multecs like me has a hard time believing all 8 fail suddenly and wake up suddenly. If it had run rough, fair enough. I did have issues when the driver bank died but it still ran pig rich because the O2 reported a lean condition.
Yep, mine were Multecs. In my case, there were 3 that would short when hot, 2 on one side and one on the other. The cold resistance measurement on all of them were in spec.
Yep, mine were Multecs. In my case, there were 3 that would short when hot, 2 on one side and one on the other. The cold resistance measurement on all of them were in spec.
Steve
I agree it causes issues but did it shut down the motor completely when they acted up? IDK.
Thanks for the info on the injectors. Yes mine are the originals. Are the injectors something I could replace or do I need to find a Chevy dealer for these?
As the car died on the highway yesterday I did notice that this time it seemed like I was not getting fuel by the sound of the engine and the way it acted (Cutting in and out) before it went dead. Looking back to the first time the car died last year now it seems that the car acted the same.
Last edited by lovmy90vette; Jun 14, 2017 at 09:50 PM.
Reason: Adding another comment
No special tools are needed, but you will have to take off the intake plenum and fuel rail. I've been twisting wrenches for 50 years, so it wasn't difficult, if you are inexperienced as a mechanic, it would be a difficult first job.
Steve,
Thanks for the reply. Let me ask you this, if I have the injectors replaced, is there a brand I should have my mechanic look for? I have a friend that has his own shop in Lansing near where I live. About how much am I looking at to replace the injectors?
Also are the injector coils part of the injectors that I would be replacing?
You really got me thinking now............I recall many times when I would accelerate the car and I would get a slight hesitation before the car took off. Would this be an injector issue too?
Last edited by lovmy90vette; Jun 14, 2017 at 10:11 PM.
Reason: spelling and more stuff
Steve,
Thanks for the reply. Let me ask you this, if I have the injectors replaced, is there a brand I should have my mechanic look for? I have a friend that has his own shop in Lansing near where I live. About how much am I looking at to replace the injectors?
Also are the injector coils part of the injectors that I would be replacing?
Reman Bosch 3 from FIC. https://fuelinjectorconnection.com