Need help with Crank/No Start condition
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Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Port Saint Lucie Florida
I have been having fairly similar problems, But I have been having a run of Bad Opti's but I did not install a Quality Opti in the first place.
one thing I did find was that the coil power leads were rotted and thinned at the ICM and the Coil connections, while you are looking for your Cause just give a good look at your Wiring. Sometimes we Forget what could be Staring at us.
one thing I did find was that the coil power leads were rotted and thinned at the ICM and the Coil connections, while you are looking for your Cause just give a good look at your Wiring. Sometimes we Forget what could be Staring at us.
That is a good idea too. I replaced the corroded harness to the opti and replaced the coil pigtail too. I now have an ICM pigtail I can switch out too.
Anybody have any suggestions for what I should check before I put all this back together?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2,892
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From: New Port Richey FL
This is my second new opti, a Cardone "new and tested." When I asked where I could get it checked (no returns) they simply emailed me the corvette service manual ignition diagram.
That is a good idea too. I replaced the corroded harness to the opti and replaced the coil pigtail too. I now have an ICM pigtail I can switch out too.
Anybody have any suggestions for what I should check before I put all this back together?
That is a good idea too. I replaced the corroded harness to the opti and replaced the coil pigtail too. I now have an ICM pigtail I can switch out too.
Anybody have any suggestions for what I should check before I put all this back together?
Well mine were Auto Zone I went though I think 5 or 6 of them. a friend of mine has a MSD that he took out of a wrecked LT-1 car so I will be installing it when it gets here Hopefully it fits/works .
My last A-Z opti had a odd problem I installed it did a test start before fully assembling car kicked right off smooth. Shut right off finished the assemble, Poured in a Gal. plus bled off the the trapped air started and kept adding the coolant to top off.
But when the car hit 155 deg F shut off NO SPARK, NO INJ. Pulse. rechecked everything, Car started hit 160 Coolant Bam shut down. I had a good ICM & Coil so I plugged them in car started again it Died around 160/175 I was thankful that there is someone else chasing a problem and that hit me and made feel better just pulling and handing back the just installed Opti.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1580563535
Last edited by s carter; Mar 20, 2017 at 09:53 PM.
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 85
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From: Port Saint Lucie Florida
Today I took apart the opti and I believe the optical disk module is bent. I may have installed the opti drive in the wrong position to cause this.
Should i replace it and try again with a new opti? What brand do you recommend?
Video link:
sorry again for the vertical video
any advice appreciated!
Should i replace it and try again with a new opti? What brand do you recommend?
Video link:
any advice appreciated!
Last edited by 94c4seminole; Mar 26, 2017 at 02:57 PM.
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 85
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From: Port Saint Lucie Florida
Update 3: New Opti in from SacCity and still no start. Back to the drawing board. The pistons looked alright from underneath. Maybe I'll take off valve covers and look at the heads. Or do a compression test first. Any ideas appreciated!
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Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Port Saint Lucie Florida
I am getting a faint noid light maybe 1 to 2 times during 7 seconds of cranking. All my voltages and grounds at the connectors (opti, ICM, and coil) are normal per the service manual. I am wondering if I have a bad ground between the engine-chassis-battery. Would a bad ground potentially cause no spark and little to no noid light with cranking?
I have been trying to learn about grounds today.
I checked resistances and voltages with my multimeter with the key on:
engine (intake manifold or ICM ground) to negative battery terminal = 1.3 ohms (no voltage)
chassis to negative battery terminal = 4.3 ohms (no voltage)
engine to chassis = 3.3 ohms (no voltage)
Edit: I have just read that the battery can cause false resistance readings, so with the key off all resistances were 0.2.
PCM ground connectors to negative battery have no resistance.
If anyone can link me to a thread or video that would help me do this, I would appreciate it. I'm doing my best to find the answers. I am trying to believe this is not an optispark problem because it seems like the SacCity model has been good for many. However, following this thread http://www.mainstreamtopics.com/foru...rt-diagnostic/ it is still a problem with the optispark.
I have been trying to learn about grounds today.
I checked resistances and voltages with my multimeter with the key on:
engine (intake manifold or ICM ground) to negative battery terminal = 1.3 ohms (no voltage)
chassis to negative battery terminal = 4.3 ohms (no voltage)
engine to chassis = 3.3 ohms (no voltage)
Edit: I have just read that the battery can cause false resistance readings, so with the key off all resistances were 0.2.
PCM ground connectors to negative battery have no resistance.
If anyone can link me to a thread or video that would help me do this, I would appreciate it. I'm doing my best to find the answers. I am trying to believe this is not an optispark problem because it seems like the SacCity model has been good for many. However, following this thread http://www.mainstreamtopics.com/foru...rt-diagnostic/ it is still a problem with the optispark.
Last edited by 94c4seminole; Apr 4, 2017 at 11:12 PM.
