1984-1989 1.5 DIN Car Computer project
It's a first step, but a necessary one.
Last edited by LWesthaver; Apr 27, 2018 at 07:48 PM. Reason: fix youtube tag
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You may have noticed that the touch screen is on the right-hand side now and the volume control is on the left-hand side where God and GM intended it to be. It turns out that by upgrading to a new capacitive touch screen, not only is the system more responsive to touch, it also allowed me to redesign the front panel layout and put the controls where I really wanted them in the first place. When I started this project, the capacitive touch screen wasn't available. Now it is. And it's cheaper. Yay!
I've reworked the power management system and made other improvements as well.
The GPS receiver I got for Christmas is now integrated into the system so now I can record road trip data.
And finally, I'm starting to work on displaying live OBD1 data. I'm still putting the puzzle pieces together and it may take a while (unless someone in-the-know offers to educate me) but the system is working for the most part and I'm happy with its appearance and features.
I posted these photos on the Facebook Corvette Forum and was overwhelmed by the positive responses I received. It is gratifying to see others getting excited about this project. Early C4 owners don't have a lot of options when it comes to replacing their old BOSE head units and I think this project will offer a viable option.

I don't think I actually need a computer in the car BUT.... If thats what it takes to have a nice looking/sounding modern car stereo for my '88 I'm all for it.
There are a lot of 1.5 DIN size radios out there and its hard to believe no one makes anything DECENT that fits.
I'll be watching this thread!
I hope to make this as plug-and-play as possible. I don't want to have to rewire the car to make it work.

I don't think I actually need a computer in the car BUT.... If thats what it takes to have a nice looking/sounding modern car stereo for my '88 I'm all for it.
There are a lot of 1.5 DIN size radios out there and its hard to believe no one makes anything DECENT that fits.
I'll be watching this thread!
I have skimmed over some options, and there really is alot out there.
For the bezel,
I also spent some time restoring a couple of old boats before the vette, i learned a lot about working with epoxy.
I even made some molds of small items using what i could find at the time, tinfoil.

Coated the inside with wax and poured the epoxy into the mold.
It worked pretty good for the most part, but i think visiting a craft store that specializes in that sorta thing would make it much more reproducible.
Also, I want to minimize the possibility of data corruption by shutting the system down cleanly.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
The Raspberry Pi does have some /boot/config.txt file options that let you do a horizontal or vertical flip of the display which should render the mirror image you are looking for.
The Raspberry Pi does have some /boot/config.txt file options that let you do a horizontal or vertical flip of the display which should render the mirror image you are looking for.
I actually thought you figured out how to get a regular monitor to work with a PI...
I have a 3.5 monitor I picked up that has a button for mirror image. I had that working a little bit, but it is not bright enough to work in the sun light. I was figuring I would buy an arduino if you had figured out something every person on line asks about a regular monitor running PI.
Video in.
Composite
I guess I should of said video tv, screen? I don't know.
The monitor I have only has 2 rca cables. Both video in. It auto switches between sources when power is supplied somehow. I don't know as I never tested it, just what is said.
So you are saying PI can be ran on a single video in, composite cable?
Last edited by bill mcdonald; Jan 31, 2017 at 04:24 AM.

Guess it is time to research PI.
Last edited by bill mcdonald; Apr 20, 2017 at 02:18 AM.
I have all of the power issues worked out now. I found an inexpensive buck-converter that can supply clean 5 volt power needed to drive the system components.
The power management code running in the Trinket is finished. The Trinket enforces a set of rules such that:
1) System will not power up unless the key is in the accessory/run position.
2) System will power down gracefully when the key is removed from the ignition.
3) The system will resume if the ignition key was removed while the system was running.
etc.
The system only draws about 38 milliamps when idle. I'm pretty pleased with this.
I found a very small Bluetooth keyboard with touch-pad that I can keep in the center console if ever I need to use the Car-Puter like a standard PC. To web-surf etc. The keyboard is back-lit so it can be used in the dark which is a nice feature. It is also rechargeable via USB cable.
I'm taking a few liberties with the faceplate layout as you can see from the paper mock-up. I want to include a USB port. The USB port can be used to supply media files (music, video etc.) to the system and also provide a way to charge your phone. Moving the display to the center of the faceplate solves a clearance issue with the USB and HDMI connectors on the display while providing a space for the USB port.
Here's a shot of the panel-mount USB port I will be using. I'll be mounting it with the flange behind the front panel. The mounting hardware for it and the touch-screen display will be hidden behind a black satin finish overlay (to match the rest of the car).
I am also beginning to put together the software that will drive all of this. I suspect that the software will be the part that I spend the most time on because I'm a tweaker and can't leave well enough alone. I'm using a software development platform called "Xojo". It makes developing graphical user interfaces a lot easier than other software dev platforms available for the Raspberry Pi. I'm pretty stoked about this. I hope it proves to be a good choice.
I modeled the digital clock after the original digital clock in the BOSE system right down to the size, color and segment shapes.
I joined a local 'Maker' group and now have access to a laser cutter. If all goes well, I'm hoping to have a chassis and faceplate fabricated in the near future. I'm planning on making the chassis out of 3mm clear acrylic (Plexiglass). This should help keep the cost down and allow for easy design changes.
Last edited by LWesthaver; Feb 17, 2017 at 06:10 PM.
do you know the carpi project?
I was trying this out, but I couldn't get it working with a 5" Touch Display. Mine looks pretty same as yours.
Unfortunately I have only experience in programming C# Apps.
Will you share your software?
do you know the carpi project?
I was trying this out, but I couldn't get it working with a 5" Touch Display. Mine looks pretty same as yours.
Unfortunately I have only experience in programming C# Apps.
Will you share your software?
Like you, I tried some of the pre-packaged setups but decided that I would rather roll-my-own so I can get exactly what I want. I'm not trying to make the on-screen interface look like today's modern stuff. I really want it to look like it could have been something from the 80's... Just more functional.
I hope to share everything I'm doing. That includes CADD drawings of the chassis, parts lists and suppliers, schematics, and source code.
-Wes
Last edited by LWesthaver; Feb 18, 2017 at 03:51 PM.
I really like the sport seats but the controls built into the lower bolsters are prone to breaking as people get in and out of the car. I want to keep the sport seat functionality but get rid of the bolster mounted controls when I have new leather installed.
Moving the controls to the touch screen is part of my plan, but low on the priority list.
-Wes
















