No starter enage
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 111
Likes: 10
No starter enage
96 Coupe, stock. Couple weeks ago wouldn't crank/engage starter, so I unhooked battery and checked fuses, all ok, so changed the relay, hooked batt. up again, and started fine for about six times, and now nothing ?? Frustrating as hell, as I think I have someone to buy it after I fix an oil leak at the front of the engine. Been working on this thing for about a year and put maybe $2500 in parts and hundreds of hr., and finally got it going really nice, and now this !! Any ideas ???
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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96 Coupe, stock. Couple weeks ago wouldn't crank/engage starter, so I unhooked battery and checked fuses, all ok, so changed the relay, hooked batt. up again, and started fine for about six times, and now nothing ?? Frustrating as hell, as I think I have someone to buy it after I fix an oil leak at the front of the engine. Been working on this thing for about a year and put maybe $2500 in parts and hundreds of hr., and finally got it going really nice, and now this !! Any ideas ???
This thread might be a good read .................
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s-rebuild.html
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 111
Likes: 10
First thing that comes to mind for a '96 would be the contacts for the 'denso solenoid. So long as the starter is the OE that's likely where I'd go after very few diagnostics. There's been a few recent threads regarding the repair and you should have no issues.
This thread might be a good read .................
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s-rebuild.html
This thread might be a good read .................
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s-rebuild.html
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 111
Likes: 10
Hi WVZR-1 Thanks for your reply. I haven't really considered the Solenoid because I am not hearing anything from the starter area, clicking and such. When this happened a few weeks ago, I removed fuses 9 and 10 from the passenger side fuse panel, and when I hit the switch, got power to both areas, so figured the switch wasn't the problem, then changed out the relay, rehooked the battery and the thing started, so figured...fixed. I did have the starter off a few months ago when i changed the pan gasket, and recall it wasn't fun to remove. Going to go under there later and make sure I don't have a loose wire. Seems like I remember I used to hear a "clicking" sound when a solenoid went bad. Long time ago, used to rebuild a solenoid by turning the copper contact bolt around and flipping the large plunger contact copper washer...good as new. Anyway, will test the solenoid wire on the starter to see if it gets hot when key is turned. Course it will now because the damned thing is starting. I will post again after I check it out. Think I will probably just go ahead and rebuild the Solenoid, just to eliminate that possibility.
Just to follow up and let you know it was the VATS. Had a new key made, but it didn't make any difference. Bought a pack of resistors for $2 soldered it in line, and starts right up. Locksmith will be able to determine which resistor you have in your key (1-15) if you don't have a multi-meter to test ohm's yourself
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2,692
Likes: 349
From: Sacramento California
Glad to hear your no-start issue is fixed. I am curious though, if a new key (with a new resistor) did not fix the issue, why would another new resistor fix it? Just a little confused and hoping to learn something.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2,891
Likes: 591
From: New Port Richey FL
I have a Theory why new key didn't work Contacts in cylinder are bad or the small wires from cylinder failed after 20 years of use.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2016
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Yes. you are exactly right. The resistor (bypass) goes in below the steering column; thereby, bypassing the ignition switch and wires to the VATS contacts in the ignition switch. You can also get a BYPASS KIT that just plugs in, and not have to solder, costs about $30 rather than $2, but a lot cleaner
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 2,891
Likes: 591
From: New Port Richey FL
Yes. you are exactly right. The resistor (bypass) goes in below the steering column; thereby, bypassing the ignition switch and wires to the VATS contacts in the ignition switch. You can also get a BYPASS KIT that just plugs in, and not have to solder, costs about $30 rather than $2, but a lot cleaner
Back in the 80's I a car come in with a Simple but Effective Bypass, The guy had taken a Vat's from a Parts store and didn't have the Tools or Know how and was to cheap to pay for an install. He drilled a Hole in the Kick panel put the Cylinder thru it and put the correct key in it. but this had an Advantage over a By pass kit or Resister he still had a vats system he just took the key.
I gave him credit for his Idea but you should have seen his face when I told him the Cylinder repair would have been covered by Warrantee
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,621
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From: Orlando FL
You can take a wood cotton swab (wood is thinner) and clean the contacts for the key. Look with a flashlight and you will see 2 copper contacts close to the surface where the key goes in. Some alcohol and it takes a minute to give it a few gentle rubs. Or you can put a cylinder in if you like the VATS security. Whatever……………