Great video and nice driving. Thanks for posting.

Gary

 

would love to see some videos of you defeating newer vettes !

 

Nice!

 

Just because I couldn't see the answer, why did the green Nova lose with a 10.39? Congrats for the win but I want to learn something.

I watched that particular launch a few times and you both seem dead even off the line. With the orange pumpkin, it was obvious he jumped and the flashing "winner" beacon was present ALL THE WAY DOWN THE TRACK...indicating you won from the start.

I didn't see anything like that for the Nova. It looked like a fair launch with him edging you by a couple 100ths.

Oh yeah...Thanks for uploading the vids so I had something GREAT to watch!!!

 

Cool

 

Pause it at 1:14, and look at the timing boards. The bottom number is both racer's dial. Nova dialed a 10.42, 383Vette dialed a 10.41. That means the tree green light'ed .01 sooner for the Nova, than for the 'Vette. Had they both achieved a perfect R/T, perfect run and run their dials, it would have been a dead tie at the end, inspirt of the Nova's .01 advantage at the start from the tree/dial.

Unfortunately for the Nova, his run wasn't perfect; he ran too fast with a 10.39; .03 faster than his dial. In other words, he "broke out" and thus, he lost the round. ***** drove flawlessly and essentially ran his dial (0.02 slow) on a nearly perfect pass. That's how to get it done in bracket racing!


.

 

Thanks for sharing. Looks like a lot of fun!

 

Thanks again. The following is bracket racing 101... This is the time slip against the green Nova...



The Nova's dial in was 10.42, mine was 10.41. I treed him with a .001 light to his .033. That means I had .032 seconds to play with. He ran .030 under his dial. I ran .020 over my dial and finished behind him .0181 or about 18". Because he broke out, he lost.

This is the time slip of the final round against the T-bird...



I had a better light .022 to his .056. I had .034 seconds to play with. He ran a 10.114 on a 10.10 dial. I took the stipe by .0232 (lifting again) and ran 10.44 on a 10.42 dial. If you study the time slips, it starts to make sense.

 

Nice job youve come a long way with the car!

Too bad about **** smog laws would be fun on the street.....wish there was a track nearby
If laws werent the way they were Id pull the drivetrain out of the Camino sell it off and stick it in a C4.

 

Looks like the Nova was playing games.... Espc looking at the MPH. He was trying to judge the stripe on you and got taken by surprise with your good lightand 60ft... then he just couldn't cut enough on the big end and broke out .

Awesome job. I hate guys that play the mirror my dial in game.
Will

 

U da Man

 

THATS GREAT !! KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK !! C-4's RULE !!

 

Thanks to BOTH of you guys for the explanations. I had to look up the definition of dial and r/t...since I've never had the FUN of trying my hand/car at the track. (The combination of TPI and cost of DR's took a lot of that motivation away. If I ever swap intakes, maybe some day?)

I had forgotten about the "handicap" in any race. Now I know the average time is call the "dial". I'm not sure if/how much the driver gets to determine that number?

r/t (reaction time) is easy to figure out.

Now that I understand you can't go faster than your target "dial" then both explanations make perfect sense. Thanks for letting me learn something today!

And, great job again...of hitting that thread of driving your car as close to...but not over what you expect it to! (IOW, winning the bracket! LOL)




Still think it's funny that you call the first race against the "orange pumpkin". LOL (Even though we all know it's a nice build.)

 

Congrats !!!!

 

Congrats !!!!!!!!

 

Gregg just try it without DRs go have some fun
Just leave like you were pulling away froma stoplight quickly then hammer down. Cheapest fun you can have
Can look not so fun til you do it....plus no tickets!
If it was a slow night at the track Id run the DD just for kicks

 

I totally agree. You don't need DR's to
*do it
*have fun
*learn about your car
*or even WIN.



Driver picks their own dial. That is based on Test 'n Tune passes and general experience/knowledge of their own car and their own driving. Before the first comp pass, the track allows a few passes to establish your dial. Essentially, you want to pick the lowest number (so you don't break out) you think you can muster, then "race yourself" to hit that time. If everything works perfectly. you run that number on a .000 reaction time and win.

You can play games; like dial way slower than you can run, then try to stay just ahead of your opponent (like rklessdriver alluded to w/the Nova)...but that is poor sportsmanship IMO, and also risky; if you dial 15 seconds, you have a 14 second car, you get 1 second to play with. But if you were racing a 9 second car, in that round, you'd get a 6 second head start. You'd end up near the finish line going ~100 mph...your opponent is bearing down on you at ~140-150. You going to accurately gauge all that in your rear view? Not very well. I feel it's best to just pick an honest dial and then make the best passes that you can make. The winner is the guy who drove better.


.

 

I don't deny there'd be some fun. And (as Tom said) learning about your car would be mandatory. Even with the technique you described above, it would require learning how to feather the throttle for best traction/time especially in 1st gear.

The dyno I did back in 2010 showed I was putting down 370+rwtq from 2k to 4.5k rpms -- with a peak of 425+ halfway through that. In first...even with 315 rears, I can "hammer" and spin at any rpm. Of course, that makes sense when you do the multiplication for gearing. I'd be learning how to "feather" 1000+ ft/lbs of torque w/o drag radials.

I might be the first guy to post a 5 second 60-ft on the forum! LOL

j/k

TO ME, it would be more fun if I could LEVERAGE that first second/two to hit the best (respectable) time a long-tube car could put down. (w/DRs) Without the ability to grab, leap, and "score" on the front-end, some of the fun WOULD be missing.

Of course, and HSR (intake) wouldn't remove that obstacle, it would just push even more demand by bringing in the back half of the run.

Maybe my perception is off, but -- in watching drags -- its hard to see you're "getting jiggy with it" until you've built a 10-sec car. How fun are the 14's, 13's, 12's, and 11's?

 

Thanks.

Thanks Will. The Nova was definitely holding a few hundreths in the bag hoping he would get a better reaction time than I and that I wouldn't run my number.

Gregg, you definitely need to go out to a local track and let it rip. It's a lot of fun. You can run full out over and over, something you can't do on the street and make improvements to your car that you can see on a time slip.
Not really poor sportsmanship. In bracket racing, there are a thousand ways to win and a thousand ways to lose. Many racers fender race. Sometimes they win, sometimes they lose. If someone cuts a good light and runs on their number, the opponent will usually lose. Some racers will know other racer's tendencies. If against a fender racer, one can dial soft (hold a few hundreths in the bag), race to the mph stripe, hit the brakes, the opponent shoots by and takes the stripe by more than he intended. You run close to your number, he breaks out and you go on to the next round. There is really no "poor sportsmanship" when it comes to dialing in times and actual racing. There are some drivers that don't always play by the rules. for instance, I always courtesy stage (light the top prestage beam and let the other guy light his, then I'll light my second one). You can see in the video against the orange car that he didn't do that. Not a big deal, some racers don't know to do that. Others will not light the second stage beam for quite a while while you are waiting to race. These things happen. The main thing is to know your car and concentrate on the lights and not worry about your opponent until you get to the stripe.

 

Our track has a ten second delay, once both pre-stage lights are on you have 10 seconds to light the stage light or you automatically red light.

Solves that problem!