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This thread needs to be saved for sure I just did this upgrade it is night and day better on my 85.
One note... The middle year shafts with the rag joint in the middle of the shaft and the stamped bracket require a longer pinch bolt than an 85 comes with at the column/shaft joint.
One note... The middle year shafts with the rag joint in the middle of the shaft and the stamped bracket require a longer pinch bolt than an 85 comes with at the column/shaft joint.
Get that bolt if you want to make the swap.
I've already done the swap but this is great info for the next person to do this swap.
I am dealing with the exact issue of a lose shaft. I have an 85 and I have two shafts I bought of ebay, one with the rag joint in the middle and one with it at the rack. My question, was the shaft the same size in length? from u-joint to u-joint? mine appear to be about 3/16 longer on the later shafts. Maybe mine has shrunk at the failing rubber sleave
I am dealing with the exact issue of a lose shaft. I have an 85 and I have two shafts I bought of ebay, one with the rag joint in the middle and one with it at the rack. My question, was the shaft the same size in length? from u-joint to u-joint? mine appear to be about 3/16 longer on the later shafts. Maybe mine has shrunk at the failing rubber sleave
Mine seemed a little longer as well but still fit just fine, at least in my 84. Your mileage may vary.
I did have to swap out the steering wheel end if the intermediate shaft with the 84, however the ujoints are the same.
Here is a side by side of the two before modification.
Here is the modified shaft, i also gave it a quick polishing...
Installed...
Steering wheel lined up perfectly!
Only catch was getting the ujoints out, trial and error...
Luckly they are compatible with each other.
I swear this is the only topic on this procedure that I can find and I doubt I'll get an answer because it's been quite some time, but how do you drive out the U joints? They have little metal punches holding them in from the factory. Do those need to be bent back or will the force of driving them out be enough to bend them out of the way?
I swear this is the only topic on this procedure that I can find and I doubt I'll get an answer because it's been quite some time, but how do you drive out the U joints? They have little metal punches holding them in from the factory. Do those need to be bent back or will the force of driving them out be enough to bend them out of the way?
Why are you concerned? Are you assuming you need to change out the upper yoke to column?
Why are you concerned? Are you assuming you need to change out the upper yoke to column?
My situation is the same as OPs where I have an 85 with presumably a different steering wheel side yoke to the one on the 94 intermediate shaft that I purchased
Have you confirmed? I haven't looked at that style of intermediate shaft for quite some time but it isn't unusual for that series of universal only being 'staked' for security. A 'staked' joint cap should press out with not exceptional pressure involved. 2 stakes or 4?
Have you confirmed? I haven't looked at that style of intermediate shaft for quite some time but it isn't unusual for that series of universal only being 'staked' for security. A 'staked' joint cap should press out with not exceptional pressure involved. 2 stakes or 4?
This is what the one on the 94 looks like. I haven't removed the old one to see what it looks like but OP had to swap this top portion to make it fit on his 85. I'm guessing I would just use a pinch to knock the pinned portions back and then drive it out with a press?
Thanks for the link btw that info was very helpful. Google was not pulling anything like that up for me
This is what the one on the 94 looks like. I haven't removed the old one to see what it looks like but OP had to swap this top portion to make it fit on his 85. I'm guessing I would just use a pinch to knock the pinned portions back and then drive it out with a press?
Thanks for the link btw that info was very helpful. Google was not pulling anything like that up for me
Don't do a thing until you 'confirm' that the upper doesn't fit. Don't worry about the OP - it matters NOT. I'm surprised others that have done the swap haven't posted. Give it a day or two OR start your own thread!
Don't do a thing until you 'confirm' that the upper doesn't fit. Don't worry about the OP - it matters NOT. I'm surprised others that have done the swap haven't posted. Give it a day or two OR start your own thread!
Will do. It is baffling that the most others have said are "I did this the other day!" without elaborating at all
Just noticed the activity. Sorry. So if memory serves the late style will fit in to the rack no issue and does bolt to the steering column as well. What you'll find is the attachment point to the column is out 90 degrees if memory serves.
Edit: if you look closely at the first photo in post 8, you can see what I mean.
Just noticed the activity. Sorry. So if memory serves the late style will fit in to the rack no issue and does bolt to the steering column as well. What you'll find is the attachment point to the column is out 90 degrees if memory serves.
Edit: if you look closely at the first photo in post 8, you can see what I mean.
Nice! Thanks for the reply. I saw someone mention in another thread that you can just disassemble the rag joint to turn the top half 90 degrees so it'll line up. That's good to know!
Also my comment earlier wasn't necessarily a dig at you but genuinely all threads I've found on the subject 😅
Nice! Thanks for the reply. I saw someone mention in another thread that you can just disassemble the rag joint to turn the top half 90 degrees so it'll line up. That's good to know!
Also my comment earlier wasn't necessarily a dig at you but genuinely all threads I've found on the subject 😅
Assuming you've done 'NOTHING' yet regarding the change except add to this thread - THIS IS WHAT YOU DO!
Document exactly what you do in the replacement of the intermediate shaft from the original in your car to the later. A suggestion maybe - how long has it been that you've had an alignment and toe set? Not recently? Then get one after and have the toe set with the steering wheel locked to center. If you've had one done recently - have the toe checked and corrected if required!
Create a 'new thread' documenting just how you accomplished it!
Assuming you've done 'NOTHING' yet regarding the change except add to this thread - THIS IS WHAT YOU DO!
Document exactly what you do in the replacement of the intermediate shaft from the original in your car to the later. A suggestion maybe - how long has it been that you've had an alignment and toe set? Not recently? Then get one after and have the toe set with the steering wheel locked to center. If you've had one done recently - have the toe checked and corrected if required!
Create a 'new thread' documenting just how you accomplished it!
I'll definitely make a new thread documenting the process once I'm done. Haven't moved on anything yet because it's still cold out there but I'll definitely try to put all the info in one spot for future 84/85 owners.
I'll definitely make a new thread documenting the process once I'm done. Haven't moved on anything yet because it's still cold out there but I'll definitely try to put all the info in one spot for future 84/85 owners.
before going crazy with the rag joint, just double check the rack end does bolt on no issue. I'm pretty damn sure it did but it was almost 5 years ago I did this.
before going crazy with the rag joint, just double check the rack end does bolt on no issue. I'm pretty damn sure it did but it was almost 5 years ago I did this.
Oh for sure. I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row before I tear into it. Which I have no idea when that'll be at this point.
Oh for sure. I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row before I tear into it. Which I have no idea when that'll be at this point.
When you start the removal you want steering wheel centered and the indexing pin centered at the lower coupling on the shaft. This thread has a very good snapshot of the pin. If yours still has the shields/covers correctly orientated you can remove to check before starting the job.