4-link brackets
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,270
Likes: 118
From: N. Babylon NY
Svante,
I did check my car (as JoBy suggested jacking up one side). It does bind but after about 3.5+ degrees of rotation-Which is okay for my use as my ride height is low. I also have access to other (race cars) with longer bars and the rotation was about the same!
What are you looking to do with the car? For street driving maybe a triangular 4-Link would be better which is similar to a GM A-Body, G-Body, and Mustang Fox Body.
Steve
I did check my car (as JoBy suggested jacking up one side). It does bind but after about 3.5+ degrees of rotation-Which is okay for my use as my ride height is low. I also have access to other (race cars) with longer bars and the rotation was about the same!
What are you looking to do with the car? For street driving maybe a triangular 4-Link would be better which is similar to a GM A-Body, G-Body, and Mustang Fox Body.
Steve
Last edited by STEVEN13; Jun 9, 2017 at 08:33 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 315
Likes: 15
From: Ornskoldsvik
Svante,
I did check my car (as JoBy suggested jacking up one side). It does bind but after about 3.5+ degrees of rotation-Which is okay for my use as my ride height is low. I also have access to other (race cars) with longer bars and the rotation was about the same!
What are you looking to do with the car? For street driving maybe a triangular 4-Link would be better which is similar to a GM A-Body, G-Body, and Mustang Fox Body.
Steve
I did check my car (as JoBy suggested jacking up one side). It does bind but after about 3.5+ degrees of rotation-Which is okay for my use as my ride height is low. I also have access to other (race cars) with longer bars and the rotation was about the same!
What are you looking to do with the car? For street driving maybe a triangular 4-Link would be better which is similar to a GM A-Body, G-Body, and Mustang Fox Body.
Steve
I don´t know if the bind itself will make the inspector to fail the car, he said that the car can suffer from roll steer if the bars are too short. So it all sums up how the car performs when he does the road test.
About the triangular 4-link i dont know if i can build like that and pass inspection. They say in the build manual for modified cars that it must be a parallel 4-link with all the bars the same lenght ( preferably 600mm long 23.62" ).
Have you noticed any roll steer issues with your 4-link? What is the lenght on the bars?
/Svante.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 315
Likes: 15
From: Ornskoldsvik
Svante, With your skills you wont have any problems making your own. Here are mine. They are welded in to the frame for more tire clearance (if needed). In this photo it is not fully completed-Note the hanging sway bar mount. To get max clearance the sway bar would have to be narrowed-Which I didn't do.
Steve
Steve
Thanks
/Svante
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,270
Likes: 118
From: N. Babylon NY
IMHO it drives fine on the street and highway. Would drive much better without the spool and just a regular LSD.
Steve
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 315
Likes: 15
From: Ornskoldsvik
Svante, Strange single adjustable (adjusts rebound-not compression). Double adjustable would be a better choice. While I have taken to the drag strip-It has only gone a best of 12.84 at 108mph. The engine is (kind of) stock (headers-1.6 rockers-that's it).
IMHO it drives fine on the street and highway. Would drive much better without the spool and just a regular LSD.
Steve
IMHO it drives fine on the street and highway. Would drive much better without the spool and just a regular LSD.
Steve
which spring rate do you have? I was looking at going maybe 275-300lb.
Thanks.
/Svante.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,270
Likes: 118
From: N. Babylon NY
