L98 Conversion
05-30-2017, 02:14 AM
#1
L98 Conversion
I recently bought a '86 vette with the L98, its the first car I've ever bought and I want to switch it from the standard TPI to be carbureted. I want to know if I could use the stock block, crank, pistons,etc..with vortec heads, edelbrock rpm air-gap intake, and 600 cfm edelbrock carb. I am looking to make around 350hp...if my setup is possible, where would the power numbers be?
**sorry for any stupid or ridiculous questions for i am new to actually working on my own engines but have an extreme passion for it
**sorry for any stupid or ridiculous questions for i am new to actually working on my own engines but have an extreme passion for it
05-30-2017, 08:39 AM
#2
Team Owner
You could but I think you'd lose your gauges. What are you trying to accomplish?
05-30-2017, 08:47 AM
#3
Safety Car
I recently bought a '86 vette with the L98, its the first car I've ever bought and I want to switch it from the standard TPI to be carbureted. I want to know if I could use the stock block, crank, pistons,etc..with vortec heads, edelbrock rpm air-gap intake, and 600 cfm edelbrock carb. I am looking to make around 350hp...if my setup is possible, where would the power numbers be?
**sorry for any stupid or ridiculous questions for i am new to actually working on my own engines but have an extreme passion for it
**sorry for any stupid or ridiculous questions for i am new to actually working on my own engines but have an extreme passion for it
05-30-2017, 10:04 AM
#4
You could do that and your power will be close to 350 HP with the correct cam but I question why you want to go this route? You will spend the same amount of money on an intake, carb, distributer, and fuel system modifications to make this happen vs putting on a mini ram and getting a chip. The Mini ram and chip will probably make more power and not have all the associated issues that come up with a carb.
05-30-2017, 10:10 AM
#5
Safety Car
I drove my Dad's '86 c4 for a couple months, and as good as the car handles, I've been wanting to build a "corvette kart". I want to make it a handling machine so I'm stripping the car to the frame and cutting as much weight as possible. After seeing some videos on this, the car comes in at just over 2,000 pounds so i don't know that I'd want more than 350-400 hp. I want to get rid of all the computer controlled parts on the car so i can work on it myself. any additional help would be appreciated.
05-30-2017, 10:47 AM
#7
Safety Car
05-30-2017, 11:00 AM
#8
05-30-2017, 11:54 AM
#9
Safety Car
Define best? The best option is probably the ZF 6-speed in the 1989 and newer cars but it will cost more then the Doug nash 4 + 3 so choose the one that defines your best option.
05-30-2017, 12:53 PM
#10
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
I'm doing the same thing as you, right now. A couple thoughts;
The Kart is going to end up front heavy; you're removing more weight from the rear of the vehicle than you are from the front. Swapping the stock aluminum heads for iron Vortecs will exacerbate that...some.
I was lucky and was able to find a super cheap, '89 car w/the ZF6 trans. Had I NOT found that car and ended up w/an auto...or even a 4+3 car, I'd have likely changed to a Borg Warner T5; it's light, easy, compact, and strong enough for 350 horse...especially when you have less than 1000 lbs on the rear tires. If I were you, and I couldn't afford a ZF6, I'd use a T5 and fab a c-beam bracket.
The Kart is going to end up front heavy; you're removing more weight from the rear of the vehicle than you are from the front. Swapping the stock aluminum heads for iron Vortecs will exacerbate that...some.
I was lucky and was able to find a super cheap, '89 car w/the ZF6 trans. Had I NOT found that car and ended up w/an auto...or even a 4+3 car, I'd have likely changed to a Borg Warner T5; it's light, easy, compact, and strong enough for 350 horse...especially when you have less than 1000 lbs on the rear tires. If I were you, and I couldn't afford a ZF6, I'd use a T5 and fab a c-beam bracket.
05-30-2017, 02:33 PM
#11
I'm doing the same thing as you, right now. A couple thoughts;
The Kart is going to end up front heavy; you're removing more weight from the rear of the vehicle than you are from the front. Swapping the stock aluminum heads for iron Vortecs will exacerbate that...some.
I was lucky and was able to find a super cheap, '89 car w/the ZF6 trans. Had I NOT found that car and ended up w/an auto...or even a 4+3 car, I'd have likely changed to a Borg Warner T5; it's light, easy, compact, and strong enough for 350 horse...especially when you have less than 1000 lbs on the rear tires. If I were you, and I couldn't afford a ZF6, I'd use a T5 and fab a c-beam bracket.
The Kart is going to end up front heavy; you're removing more weight from the rear of the vehicle than you are from the front. Swapping the stock aluminum heads for iron Vortecs will exacerbate that...some.
I was lucky and was able to find a super cheap, '89 car w/the ZF6 trans. Had I NOT found that car and ended up w/an auto...or even a 4+3 car, I'd have likely changed to a Borg Warner T5; it's light, easy, compact, and strong enough for 350 horse...especially when you have less than 1000 lbs on the rear tires. If I were you, and I couldn't afford a ZF6, I'd use a T5 and fab a c-beam bracket.
05-30-2017, 03:09 PM
#12
Safety Car
I'm doing the same thing as you, right now. A couple thoughts;
The Kart is going to end up front heavy; you're removing more weight from the rear of the vehicle than you are from the front. Swapping the stock aluminum heads for iron Vortecs will exacerbate that...some.
I was lucky and was able to find a super cheap, '89 car w/the ZF6 trans. Had I NOT found that car and ended up w/an auto...or even a 4+3 car, I'd have likely changed to a Borg Warner T5; it's light, easy, compact, and strong enough for 350 horse...especially when you have less than 1000 lbs on the rear tires. If I were you, and I couldn't afford a ZF6, I'd use a T5 and fab a c-beam bracket.
The Kart is going to end up front heavy; you're removing more weight from the rear of the vehicle than you are from the front. Swapping the stock aluminum heads for iron Vortecs will exacerbate that...some.
I was lucky and was able to find a super cheap, '89 car w/the ZF6 trans. Had I NOT found that car and ended up w/an auto...or even a 4+3 car, I'd have likely changed to a Borg Warner T5; it's light, easy, compact, and strong enough for 350 horse...especially when you have less than 1000 lbs on the rear tires. If I were you, and I couldn't afford a ZF6, I'd use a T5 and fab a c-beam bracket.
I would not trust a T5 for a 350 HP race car even if it is light weight. I have destroyed at least 3 world class T5's in my 1988 Firebird with a 320 HP 305 and I always seem to fail 3rd gear. I eventually went to a T56 in the Firebird.
Just my experience.
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c4_owner (05-30-2017)
05-30-2017, 04:27 PM
#13
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
I totally hear you...My first T5, I broke (and rebuilt) a lot. Every 6 months maybe? But I was a dumbass way back then. Later, I ran a SBC 400 in my Trans Am...drag raced it for years. Flat foot shifted every gear, every pass. Even pulled some 1.8 60's on it. In 12 years, I broke one 3/4 shift fork. It cost me $12 to repair it. I would definitely use a T5 in a car that weights 2/3's what the Trans Am weighed. But I know that w/the T5, results may vary. A T56 is too much $$ for a 'Vette Kart, IMO.
05-30-2017, 04:32 PM
#14
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
^That last part, I'm kidding. In reality, it's there, it works, it "looks cool" and has good driveability.
My car came w/the ZF6trans/D44 rear, so I'm sticking with that. Again, with that light weight, the D44 rear will last forever, no matter how much monstah towak the TPI makes!
I love talking shop though...PM or whatever about it.
